Removing hubs from a 46 Ford, When do I cut?

Lots of energy on those tapered axles. Keep the nut ON!!! That hub can kill you. Pay attension and work it slow, and stay the hell outta it's way!

 

Take up your puller good and tight then hit the end or the screw part against the axle with a sharp blow with a LARGE hammer. Tighten screw puller and repeet IF hub dosen"t come loose keyway may be twisted..

 

To remove Ford rear drums ,you need the heavy stuff,Wilson puller and a BIG sledge hammer. Hate to say it, but all you're doing with your small hammers is abuseing them. Good luck,with the proper tools, they will come off.

 

I hope you meant to say 'winner'.....

 

I am a real cheap ass.....but even I know you NEED the special puller.

My buddy told me before I bought mine.

If you can't afford to buy the right tool to play with your old fords, maybe you shouldn't play with your old fords.

It really is a must have if you plan on messing with tapered key way axles.

In fact, the drums and hubs I removed with it were rusted to the shoes and wouldn't turn at all.

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I had one that would not come off. I had started to doubt my manhood after braking pullers and smashing things with a large hammer. I set out on an investigation to find out what happened. After cutting it apart and splitting the hub that was left it still did not want to come off. I believe the previous owner did a brake job (shoes had no wear) and did not torque the nut then sheared the key, then I think he spun the axle shaft inside the hub till it effictively spun welded the hub to the axle shaft. I replaced the axle shaft hub and drum. This would not be your case because you have two that are stuck. Have you tried the other side.

 

sounds like id be doing some measuring and heading the junkyard to find a good 8 or 9 inch and call it done

 

I have worked on both sides and applied a fair amount of heat. Instead of renting a tool ,I ordered the tool. Either I will join ranks with those who said "it worked right away" or I'll have to cut the damn thing up and send it to Idaho. The suspense is killing me.

 

One thing to point out as this post progresses. There is a chance that the hub wont come off due to the prior installation of safety hub retainers. The safety hubs are two piece with the retainer welded on to internally capture the internal bearing race section of the hub and prevent the wheel from flying off should an axle break. These parts can be easily identified by checking the axle backing plate flange and looking for 2 long studs in diagonally opposing corners sticking out of the axle flange where the backing plate bolts should be. If you see these studs remove the nut anchoring them in place and this will allow the drum to be removed.

If you are purchasing the correct KRW style hub puller, remember this tool shocks the hub off like others have pointed out. All you have to do is clamp the tool on the hub, make sure that the axle shaft nut is backed off to protect the axle shaft threads and then you run the large tension bolt up and apply tension so you cant turn it. That is tight enough. Now with a 5 or 10 lb hammer shock the tension bolt square on the head with a heavy hit. This should pop the hub off, if you have been trying to tighten the tools up to sort of pull the hub off like you were removing a bearing you can do that for ever and it wont work.

 

You quoted the price on a KR Wilson hub puller. Did you also find out the cost of a new axle for comparison? You might try contacting a local Model A club or Early V8 Ford Club (mafca.com, modelaford.org, earlyfordv8.org) and see if they have one in their club tools that they loan. Maybe as a non member you could rent it. Note that Model A's use the same puller as the V8's.


ONE MORE VERY IMPORTANT THING TO DO!!! After you screw up the threads on the end of the axle (this coment is based on the puller you are showing in the picture and not on my estimate of your mechanical ability) and do a "quick fix" (this is very tempting but it probably means you can't put enough torque on the axle nut) be sure to invest in a set of brake drum retainer clips or safety hub adapters (for description see http://www.vintageford.com/word_search.cfm?line=Hot Rod&DescEntry=safety&Category=). That way when the axle fails you won't lose a wheel (not to mention the fender and the school bus coming the other direction on the highway).

Charlie Stephens

 

dude, this just urks me. if you lived anywhere near me i would be over there with the torches and a damn puller and it would be off in 20 minutes. all this god damn fucking around i swear you do it to just annoy me.

 

Now that's a good one ..

 

well.......what happened ?!?!?!

inquiring minds and such....................

 

I hate cars....i love cars!

 

All said and done....try to find the puller that will grip onto the groove in the hunb snout. K7N is best, of course...lacking resources, look up the local Early Ford V8 Club chapter,...I'm sure one of them would be willing to lend a hand. And I bet that one of them will have a K&N hub puller. 4TTRUK

 

PS; You'll be surprised ho fast that drum will "fall off", using that K&N tool !!

 

Just pulled mine to change wheel cyls., been 6 years. Not much pressure, little pop. Was a tough job to get it apart first time, super clean, neverseez, seal behind washer, new key super tight. Next time no sweat

 

I hear you on that one..............

 

Great!, funny how fast the drums come off. I beat mine for days and then POP....off in 2 minutes with the kr wilson tool.

 

i bought one from guy on the old fardbarn...cost about $60...he still sells them...seen em on ebay tooo...dont remember the name but you might come up with it on ebay search engine.............i hate paypal by the way.....owned by ebay....postal money order for me boys....best....kev

 

I tried to get a drum off my 37. No matter what I did or used it did not want to move. After a week I finally cut it off with a cutting torch. The problem was the keyway snapped in half.