Technical Removing Residual Valves...

When GM and FORD down here used the bigger BREMBO calipers on their performance models they introduced a two stage MC to cope with the extra displacement/volume requirement. The original 1" MC would travel too far before everything started to work so the two stage has a larger bore that moves the volume but when pressure is required it reverts back to the 1" diameter, they are operated by a ~10" double diaphragm booster.
I'm using this style MC, booster and pedal box in my '46 Tudor build because I have a JAGUAR - IFS with big 4 spot calipers and a disc rear end. These MC's also have an inbuilt proportioning valve, the spring can be changed to get the brake balance correct or alternately use an adjustable unit in the rear circuit. Pedal ratio is important too and must match the combination being used. Our "rego" engineers prefer you to use the complete OEM brake package if possible. The other important thing to consider is where your MC is positioned ...... if it's mounted down low near or below the brakes level it will need a ~2 psi RPV for disc brakes in both circuits. WILWOOD have good tech on this aspect.
Hope this helped some, good luck with it.
BTW: Thanks for your great help Steve with the well do***ented electrical/wiring tutorials from a while back.

 

Oh my....

If this scares you, watch out for all late '60s, 70s and 80s Jaguars you see. The 'valveless' system I described is OEM on all of those through those years, which is where I got the idea. They changed to a complicated ABS system in '90. Jags have their issues, but brakes aren't one of them. The only thing I don't like about them is those cast-iron Girling calipers weigh a ton...