Does anyone have any good suggestions for removing tar floor insulation from a 50's GM car? I wanna rust-proof the floors, but have to get that caked on insulation off first. Any suggestions?
I've never tried it, but heard that you can freeze it with dry-ice then give it a whack and it will come off easily.
If it isnt to "gummy" as all dryed up,I have used a propane tourch and a scraper.I now have a tool made by dynabrade called a rotozip the eats that stuff for breakfast. EVIL
Freezing it - never tried that, but I have heard of it. That leads me to believe it could be bunk... Propane torch....uhh, probably works but it may warp the metal or get something hot that you don't want hot....plus, I have personally seen some minor sparks cause MAJOR heart seizing moments...I'd shy from this unless you have the Fire Supressor cocked and loaded. I think I was pretty lucky when I did my floors. I used a scraper and a blackwheel on a grinder. No prob. It wasn't summer - and the garage may have been chilly, but not frozen. So in terms of temp - I'd say cold works with you better than warm temps. I used a chemical solvent to strip the remaining residue. Like a bug and tar remover from 3M or something like that. I believe I got it from dad's collision repair shop so they probably sell it at the parts stores. My Buick had the radiator/fan/heater contraption under the seats - mounted on the floor. So I had to remoe a bunch of shit before I even started stripping the floors.
Dry Ice does work but is a pain, only works well when the tar is on the outside and you can put it into the floor board and scrape the outside. A puddy knife and a little heat works but you have to be careful takes awhile and can leave a residue.. If you can do it cold try a thick wide puddy knife and a hammer, on a cold morning and see if you can get it to come off in chunks. (mine did.) This assumes it is the sheet stuff on the floor not the spray on stuff ... also depends on what you are doing after you clean it off, if you are going to sand blast just clean off the big stuff and go.... If you plan on welding afterward and not sand blasting remember that if you heat it too much that stuff it runs everywhere and is a bitch to deal with...then it will come out of everything as soon as you start to weld... just a warning....
i have done it a few times with a propain torch heat it up scrape off as much as i can then re heat till it kinda burns then just a wire brush it will be cleen likr new and works pritty fast
Well I had some luck getting the larger chunks off with a chisel and a hammer, but the problem is that there's still all that sticky tar that held the matting down. Rust isn't that bad on the floors, so I was planning on using POR-15 to seal it off. I just need to get that tar off the metal first. A friend suggested using a heat gun to get the remaining tar off. Does this sound like a good idea? I just don't want to catch anything on fire...like my gastank that is sitting right nearby.
i did the whole bottom of a 55 cadillac with a torch and a scraper. it sucks and its messy but it works. it took me about 2 weeks to finish.
what about one of those heat-guns and a putty knife. gives a little more control than a propane torch..
Lay an old towel on the area & soak it with cheap laquer thinner.On the underside you can use a spray bottle but don't go crazy & you'll probably eat up a few sprayers.Do a small area at a time,let it sit for a little while & don't smoke.All you'll have to do is wipe it up with little or no scraping.
scrape off the big chunks with a chisel. not a putty knife...too flimsy. wire wheel on a grinder works,too, but it's messy. my favorite is called a "crud thug" by spitznagel- but I do this about once a week, and the rather expensive tool was worth it. I recently went to Home Depot and found the same type heads in the paint removal department- made by 3M or strip EZ or something. they can be used with a drill. wouldn't use a cordless 'cause you will be going through batteries like poop through a goose, but a 19 dollar corded drill would be peachy. this is the killer. they work VERY well.
Grind or file one edge of a 1/2" flatblade screwdriver to a chisel edge. Put on a pair of leather welding gloves ( to prevent blisters) and chisel it off by hand or with a hammer a little at a time. Once you get a couple of "rows" cut it comes off easier. Remaining residue can be wiped away with a gasolene or keroesene soaked rag. It's still a messy job. Wear eye protection and a good respirator.
When I bought my 48 Olds conv the bottom wide was covered with that stuff. I used a heat gun and a scraper to get it off. Very time consuming and the whole job really sucked. I don't remember how long it took, but it was a long time.
Paint stripper w/ a brush, if it's warm out. Let it eat, but do not let it dry. Keep eye on it, let the chemcial do the work. Fume's and exsposed skin are the safety issue's. Drop cloth's or cardboard to catch the mess. Nasty work, indeed.
I've used an air chisel on several cars. Works like a dream. Get yourself a nice wide (1" - 1.5") chisel for it and be careful not to catch on any bumps in the floorpan. Works much faster than anything else I've tried. Use a wire knot wheel in a angle grinder to get the last of the gooey stuff off when you're done. Shawn
Here's how I do it, but it won't work in California. On a nice clear cold day, about 0 degrees, roll the car outside, and let it chill for a couple hours. Bundle up, go out and chip it off. the tool I use is an air powered gasket scraper, mine is Snap On, but there are other brands. This will pop just about all the tar off without damage to the metal, unless it's rusted out. You can also use a needle scaller to do the same thing, but keep the air pressure low. Roll it back inside, and finish up with mineral spirits, then tar remover.
If you use a solvent, don't use gasoline, it's about as safe as blowing out your pilot light and turning on the oven! I would be leery of using laquer thinner as well, uless you're outside with the windows down and the doors open. Kerosene (or diesel fuel) is probably the safest thing to use for a solvent, but you still need plenty of ventilation!
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