Technical Removing Tie Rod End

I did it by hitting the end of the steering arm direct on (not on the side) so it pops the tie rod end out of the taper. That works 90% of the time. I did it several times a week for a number of years when I was doing front end work in tire stores and dealer shops. There is always that one that you can't get though. Same on ball joints. Most of them pop out if you hit the spindle square on but sometimes you can't get that square hit.
One of the first things I was taught in high school auto shop in 1962 was ABSOLUTELY DO NOT HIT THE END OF THE TIE ROD STUD WITH A HAMMER! We got told that in no uncertain terms. Even with the nut screwed on upside down that stands too much of a chance of damaging the threads and is seriously bad advice to even suggest it. At least for those with a new tie rod end they want to use again.

 

Hey guys,New here,I am an alright mech. Once I know how to do whatever it is I discover I have to do,trouble is ,I usually know what I am doing AFTER I do it,figuring out what to do as I go,this ends up in wasted time,extra parts,and newer tools discovery,but usually the job gets done in the end.case in point my dodge,replaced the the p***enger cv joint,and lower BJ,re***embled the unit after a real fight getting the cv loose( rust,stub axle) drove it in the yard - bang- the other went, back up did the other side tested the 4 wdup on jacks ,is good,bang! The shift bushings for 4wd were bad,replaced them,good 4wd worked,dropped it down ,used it in the snow it worked then went out with grinding noise from front right, near as I can figure the rusted p***enger stub stripped out in the new cv, I think,when I did the left side I replaced the short stub as I did not want another fight like the first,I should have done the whole damn everything the first time,you live and learn.I am not a trained mechanic,well Guns ,not cars but I m all I got,and new trucks are expensive on payment is all I can handle,so at 67 years I still crawl under trucks in cold weather,it’s just that they keep changing!!! Alright enough whining thanks for listening and I hope being on here ,you guys can help when I need it!
Oh, lesson learned? Do both cv joints if you do one.and inspect the stub axles carefully use every tool you can manage to get,My wife bought me the complete front end tool kits for Christmas,both kits $250 so now I can do this at least with the right tools and less injuries and other problems( I hope,lol.you’ll be lucky if the rubbers you tear up are the ones you can find at the store.

 

You're new alright. I'll let someone else break the news to you.

 

If it’s worth saying say it,I’m just looking for mechanic help

 

Hello. I understand what you are looking for I think but you are unfortunately in the wrong place. This is for pre’65 traditional hot rods and customs built in the era and style so even though i’m not for sure what you’re working on it does not sound like it fits here. If I’m wrong and it does fit than you will need to include some detailed information regarding what it is. If it was made after 1965 (generally speaking) then I don’t think we can help. Good luck. Regards, Randy.

 

Whats a cv joint?

 

Precisely why I Had my problem,my past work was more in line with traditional straight axles,easy to understand,simple,traditional,NOT CV axles,so out of need I am playing catch up with tech.
However after research I see what you guys are about- traditional hot rods- awesome I love em- never built one yet ,however my 77 Sporty is online with that idea,Hemi heads,carbureted breathing,no computer even went back to points,so we’re not that far off the mark!,
So I am a good sporty mech,I even do my own paint,in lacquer.kindred right?
What attracted me here was the article on tie rod end removal,I need help on that at one time and through that you guys ****ed me in,so this whole mess is YOUR fault,and through the universes vagaries your stuck with me! I enjoy your subject matter and love Big Daddy Roth art,so even if you can’t help me with my Dodge I do have a 78 toyo fj 40 project which is closer ,and who knows I may find a 64 Chevy II To get into after that so hang in there and keep the faith bro, and thanks unique resto for your more patient explanation,hope to be here and hear more on rods.thanks

 

as a few have already stated uh uh uh never mind ^^^^^

 

Hitting the side with a hammer wont hurt the parts, unless you go nuts on it. Pulling down on the end while giving it a sharp rap on the side usually pops them right off. Especially if they're fairly new like yours is.

 

I hope you're not hitting cast iron. All the tie rod ends I've ever worked with are cast steel

 

Steering arms are usually forged. I have always used the two hammer method

 

I’ll continue to use a puller, I try not to hit anything with a hammer unnecessarily, just me.

 

I had to learn that the hard way: popped free of the taper but now the nut is stuck in the threads.

 

If you use a hammer strike the steering arm end inline with the arm so it cant rebound. If at the center link use a backup

 

I've used 2 hammer method since the 60's .Just did the draglink on my 26 year old 234000 mile pickup Tuesday .

 

Working to beat float rate or a TM shop , you do what gets the jib done in the shortest possible time , hammer method is far quicker than pullers , does no harm , ....move on !
I once new a carpenter that snapped lines in a grid pattern on plywood underlayment so he could place fasteners at the recommended 4" o.c. locations , Boss let him go at noon . there's the" right" way & there's the way that works..