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Replacing early Falcon 289 V8 starter--tech tips?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Theo Douglas, Jun 10, 2004.

  1. Theo Douglas
    Joined: Nov 20, 2002
    Posts: 807

    Theo Douglas
    Member

    Hey, guys,
    Here's a slightly stupid but esoteric question for you tech gods:
    I have to change out the starter on my 63 Falcon Sprint cause it's eating my flywheel--grinding and stuff. It's the early 5-bolt 289 block, and no, I didn't buy the replacement at Pep Boys cause their computer only goes back to '68 and they threw out all their manuals.
    Any tech tips I need to shim it correctly and stuff? I know to use wrenches, not to lick the battery terminals and to not drop the starter on my chest or face area.
    Thanks,

    Theo
     
  2. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

    For the record, Auto Zone's computater goes back to 1904....
    (Doesn't mean they have any parts though.) [​IMG]

    Sorry, I don't know nutin about starters for "new" Fords.
    Jus wanted to toss that tid bit I found out about A-Z in.
     
  3. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Simple job If you dont have headers.
    Spam... Would you like a 5 Speed for that car?
     
  4. Theo Douglas
    Joined: Nov 20, 2002
    Posts: 807

    Theo Douglas
    Member

    I might be interested in a five-speed. What are your terms, and what year/model is it? It must be pretty late model if it's a five. Also, I have the early bellhousing that nothing bolts up to. Will this trans bolt up?
     
  5. Fat Hack
    Joined: Nov 30, 2002
    Posts: 7,709

    Fat Hack
    Member
    from Detroit

    Umm, well...

    1. Make sure the seperator plate is installed between the bellhousing and the block. Chevy small blocks don't use one, but Fords do. You need it if you don't got it!

    2. Make sure you have the right starter for your type of TRANS. Some Ford V8 applications use different starters for automatic vs stick shift cars...not in all cases, but be sure to ask a knowledgeable parts guy for the starter by including the year of the engine and the trans you're running.

    3. Ford starters come with either a stud to mount the cable to, or a threaded tab that incorporates a bolt to retain the cable. Don't be TOO worried if your new or rebuilt starter has a different cable mounting than your current one does. They will interchange (all other things being equal), although it's long been told that the stud-equipped starters are "heavier duty".

    4. Make sure you have the RIGHT flex-plate (different sizes and tooth counts for different years and applications). Also make sure it's bolted on the right way (not backwards!) and that it is straight, tight and has no torn up teeth on the ring gear. Also...look for the seperator plate again!

    5. Check the fit of the ring around the cone where it goes into the bellhousing/plate. It has a lip that fits snuggly into the hole. In some cases, I've had to file the hole and/or the starter for a SLIGHTLY looser fit to get proper engagement.

    Ford starters are about the easiest in the world to rebuild! If I have one that works well on my vehicle (no grinding), I won't give it up and gamble on a fly-by-night rebuilt...I'll go through the one I got and make it work again!

    (Nine times outta ten, a little carefull sanding on the brush contact surfaces to remove gooves and pits and make them concave again as well as a polishing of the armature and a general cleaning and light lube is all they ever need!).

     
  6. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,130

    metalshapes
    Member

    Its a 80s Mustang T5 mated to a 5 bolt bellhousing with a one off adaptor plate.
    It used to be in the '63 Falcon that now belongs to my G/F.
    And she wanted a Automatic.( It was a lot of fun trying to find a 5 bolt bell and matching convertor for a C4...)
    So the complete T5 setup came out of the car ( Flywheel, Pedals, Etc...) and is for sale.
    Mechanically a straight bolt in, but the ****** tunnel will have to be made larger ( the T5 is taller...)
    P/M me if you are interested.
     

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