Yup, the 67 Fairlane/mustang drum/drum master cylinder will go right in place of the fruit jar. I'd run 1 line to the front brakes and the other to the rear. That's the standard. I've also seen cross setups where left front and right rear go on one line, right front and left rear go on the other. You may need an adjusting valve on the rear line if front brakes lock up before rears get into the act. Your master cylinder should already have the residual valves built into it.
if i remember right the chamber nearest the firewall ( the larger of the two) should connect to the front brakes. this was what i found out after hooking it up the other way and only getting rear brakes.
[ QUOTE ] If I'm looking at this right, I think I can just run a line from one hole on the '67 mastercylinder to a "T" junction and then to the front brakes. For the back, I just need to get a longer line and run it to the other port in the '67 MC...Since the back brakes split from one line to two on the rear end.... [/ QUOTE ] It might be even simpler, remove that T that is in your picture, then run the two new lines from the dual M/C to those old lines where the old T used to be. New M/C's have instructions on bleeding on a bench (vise would realy be helpful). Basically you run temporary hoses from the fittings so fluid goes back into the top of the M/c. Then you actuate the M/C, which cycles the fluid through the M/C until all bubbles disappear.
Normally on a Disk/Drum master cyl the chamber on the rear goes to the front brakes (disk). On the drum/drum cyl, I don't think it matters. Both chambers are the same size. I ran a line down to a T near the driver's front on the frame rail. Then off the T across the rear side of the front crossmember to the passenger side. Other side of the T takes the rubber line to the wheel cyl. Worked fine. Mikes51 has got it. Can't get much simpler than that. Add the adjuster to the rear line if needed.
Smokin Joe is right, it doesn't matter which M/C chamber you hook up to. That's because it's a drum/drum M/C. Different if it was a disc/drum M/C. I've got a 67 Fairlane shop manual. The pic does show ,for what it's worth, that the rear chamber of the M/C hooks up to the front brakes, the front chamber of the M/C goes to the back brakes.
A couple things to think about, VT: 1. Push rod length - You may have to modify the rod to fit the master cylinder. If it's too short, the pedal will sit too close to the floor or risk popping out of the master cylinder when the brake pedal is released. If it's too long, pressure will remain in the system and keep the brakes slightly applied. 2. Brake light pressure switch - The pressure switch uses a different thread (pipe thread) than the tube fittings. You'll need to find an adapter and add another Tee if you want to retain it in your system. You may want to consider converting to a mechanical switch on the brake pedal itself or somewhere nearby. Hope this helps!
[ QUOTE ] Brake light pressure switch - The pressure switch uses a different thread (pipe thread) than the tube fittings. You'll need to find an adapter and add another Tee if you want to retain it in your system. [/ QUOTE ] the fitting to use is a tee with 3/16" inverted flair on two ends and an 1/8" pipe thread in the middle for the brake switch...Napa # 652X3 will work. you wil also need adapter fittings to install the 3/16" brake line into the MC as the `67 mustang master cylinder has two different size ports.....you need edelmann #'s 258350 and 258302 good luck
the MC i put in the poncho was from a corvette, and I had to hook the front brakes up to the rear reservior and the rear brakes to the front one. if you hook them up oppsite of that wouldn't it engage the rear brakes before the front brakes?? maybe someone else already said this stuff, I had to rear REAL fast cos I'm leaving for work....hope your swap going quicker than mine did!
I donb't mean to hijack the original post. But what would happen if the two outlets were connected to a T, then going into the single line? Since the MC is a drum-drum system,would it be self-balancing,and give you two MC's,without having a seprate front-rear system?? Anybody??
[ QUOTE ] Before I put this new MC on, HOW do I bleed it? Should I just fill it and pump it a little on the ol' work bench....Sorta bleed it before I put it in? Is that possible? [/ QUOTE ] you need to do a full "bench bleed" before you install any dual M/C.did you buy yours at the junkyard? new M/C's come with instructions usually,and a pair of plastic fittings ands 2 small rubber hoses.clamp the M/C in a vise,install the plastic fittings and hosesthen place the hoses so they route the fluid back into the M/C,fill it up halfway,then pump it until fluid has no bubbles.then bolt it to your firewall and install the lines right away-george
You would loose the redundancy in the brake system by connecting the two side of the dual master cylinder. Each side needs to be independent. One side for the front, the other for the rear. If there is a failure at one of the wheels (failed wheel cylinder seal, leaking hydraulic line, etc), the dual master cylinder only looses half of its function. Two wheels still have braking capability and you don't have a wreck.
Thank you RS Chris! Now that I think about it, that's why it's done that way to begin with(DUH ME!!) Glenn
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