Customs Replacing the turn signal switch on a 1960 Edsel....

Most of the Ford products in that era (50s) had the turn signal wiring outside the column, with a tin cover to hold them in place and protect them. Your cover may be missing....

 

Yes, on my Ford they run outside of the column with a trough that covers them.

 

Mine has all the wires taped together and held onto the steering column by a clip.

Rather than reach way up under the dash to try to unplug the wires from the current switch to wherever they disappear to up there somewhere I cut them off near the switch so now I have plenty of room to connect them to the new switch while sitting on a stool outside the driver's door (which is a lot easier on my back). I put a number on each wire from 1 to 6 since three of them were green so now I won't get them mixed up. Thanks again to those who offered advice and encouragement....

 

C0DZ-13341-A $57.95

 

That would be a trial and error fit along with ascertaining the electronic wiring compared to the original.

It might work - and then again ??????

Oldmics

 

The clip on the column is what holds the wire trough in place. Yours probably bit the dust at some point in time.

 

falcon switch fits an Edsel? Interesting!

 

Ford works in mysterious ways....

 

kinda strange, since the columns look so different....and the web page that switch is on, doesn't mention Edsels....????

SKU: C0DZ-13341-A
This turn signal switch is complete with wiring but does not include the metal cam used to activate/deactivate the switch. It is designed to fit all models of the 1960 - 1962 Ford Falcon & Mercury Comet.


Price: $57.95

 

B9A-13341-A

B9: 1959
A: Ford (from 1958; Galaxie, Custom, LTD) *Edsel should have been a K (1958-1960)
Part number: 13341-A

As shown by the OP:



C0DZ-13341-A

C0: 1960
D: Falcon (1960-1969)
Z: Ford Division Service Parts
Part number: 13341-A

Or:

The bottom two are 1960-1962 Falcon turn signal switches. It has six wires, as the OP reports, also. It marches what Oldmics posted, too.

 

Well, was that site called edselparts.com?

 

As Oldmics stated earlier, the steering column was used on the 1957-58 Mercury and 1959 Mercury with the three on the tree, which mine has, which shows that they were using whatever extra parts that they had lying around on the '60 Edsel. He owned a '57 Merc and recognized that with my pic and steered me down the correct path by finding a guy on Ebay with the correct turn signal switch for sale. I got it for $100 including shipping and the guy is right next door in Tennessee so I bought it and he shipped it yesterday and I'll get it tomorrow or Friday. The one the book called for was $175 plus shipping from California so I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out thanks to Oldmics. Another HAMB success story!

 

The thing about FoMoCo parts number coding is that the code was assigned to the part when it was designed based on the decade, year, model and design group responsible, as accurately described by Gimpy. That DOES NOT mean that part was only used on that application....it can often be found on other subsequent vehicles that differ as to decade, year or model.

And then, there is the matter of 'supercession'. A part number may be superseded by a later version that is different in some way but can be used in prior applications. Some times the later part number is just a suffix change, say a 'B' vs an 'A', and other times the whole leading code changes. I say this based on experience having been a Ford/Merc partsman in late '60s.

Ray

 

Just a search on the "13341" turns up some good shit. By 1960 the Edsel was in a death spiral and Ford was throwing all their leftovers into the recipe. The steering column & guts is just another example. A lot of the same-year truck parts are also good to look at.

 

Now I'll probably change the rear lights back to the way they came from the assembly plant and remove the red paint from the backup lights which are now the turn signals and brake lights. Is there anything I can use to remove the paint that may be easier than scrubbing them with turpentine?

 

if you mean the paint on bulbs lacquer thinner will work.from your pic it looks as if lens are still clear on bu lights.

 

I painted the outside of the backup lenses with red spray paint after this pic was taken. Then they didn't match the red lenses exactly so I painted the red ones too. It really doesn't look too good plus the extra paint on the lenses makes the lights harder to see. I want to remove the red spray paint from the outside of all four lenses so what would be the easiest way to proceed? Thanks....

 

What kind of paint did you use....i.e. lacquer or enamel or some sort of water based paint?

Lacquer would be the most difficult to deal with as it etches itself into the plastic lens. Enamel or other paint types may be carefully scraped off, sanded with 600/800/1000 grit wet or dry paper, and the lenses carefully polished to a smooth finish. Are NOS lenses available?

Ray

 

It's probably the cheapest spray paint available-the enamel that Dollar General sells for a dollar a can. If I soaked the lenses in turpentine first would that make the paint easier to scrape off?

There's a guy in Florida who had both the clear and red lenses for the '60 Edsel reproduced and he sells a set of four for $250 but I'd rather try to make these work before I bought them....

 

I do not know if turpentine will soften the paint, but doubt it would hurt the plastic. You might try it and see what happens....with only one lens at first.....just in case.

Ray

 

Is there some product that I can soak them in so that I can scrape the paint off easily or even just wipe it off with a rag?

 

Oven cleaner is good. I use it to take off model car paint, enamel, lacquer it doesn't matter. Brake fluid may work too, also Castrol Purple Power.

 

Try 'GoofOff' for cleaning the lenses. But if the lenses are weather-checked (lots of tiny cracks), you may be screwed if the paint got into the cracks. Avoid soaking them in anything, as that will thin the paint and allow it to migrate into the cracks.

 

Brake fluid, turpentine and Goof Off didn't work so I ended up scraping the paint off of one of them with a screw driver. I'll worry about that next week.

I checked the tracking number on the turn signal switch and it's already in Louisville so I'll definitely get it tomorrow. Hopefully installing it will go smoothly but if it doesn't you guys will be the first ones to know about it....

 

The switch came today and I've been out there trying to remember how all these parts go back in and I have no clue. I have a factory shop manual for the '60 Edsel but since my steering column is out of a late '50s Mercury it's completely different. I looked online for a '57 or '58 Mercury turn signal switch installation instructions and/or diagram but couldn't find anything. Does anyone have a shop manual for a '57 or '58 Mercury? If so could you please scan the page with the turn signal switch pics in the steering column? Thanks....

 

not specifically the signal switch wiring.if you go to old carmanuals.com they have 57 58 59 mercury wiring diagrams.it will help with colour codes

 

This is just like mine and is all I can find:

 

View attachment 3494142 View attachment 3494142 View attachment 3494142 Here ya go

Two different sections but related.

Remember the collum is the same for 57,58 and 59 stick cars so the 57,58 pictorial information is applicable for your needs.

Oldmics

 

Thanks for the diagrams. After hooking up the new turn signal switch and messing around with it for a couple of hours with my next door neighbor I have exactly zero turn signals and zero brake lights. (Both turn signals worked fine before as did the driver's side brake light.) The turn signal lever doesn't stay up or down like it used to and I have one extra gold colored screw that I don't know where it goes. I turned the key on and pressed on the brake pedal while testing each of the 6 connections with the test light and only one of the 6 connections made it light up. So what's my next move?

 

You have two problems.
1st is the mechanical - that is the issue of your limp switch and leftover parts.

Your going to have to work from the pictorials and reassemble it in the correct order.

Once that is corrected you move onto the 2nd concern of the electrical.

Start with the electrical by confirming the color codes on the newly acquired t/s switch for me.

I believe those to be
green
green/orange
green/white
blue
white/blue
orange/blue

Your cars wiring harness should be the same - if it is different STOP and again let me know what colors exist on your cars harness.

So again , I need to know the colors on the new t/s switch AND the colors on your cars wiring harness

Power is fed from the harness on the green wire. The power ONLY happens when the brake pedal is applied and the switch is on.

I believe you already have discovered power on that green wire coming from the harness.

So connect the harness green wire to the t/s switch green wire.Stop there for now.

Confirm the color codes when you can.

In the meantime fix that mechanical problem.

We will get you thru this. It will just some time and effort.

Oldmics