I rebuilt the brakes on the '50 shoebox coupe, front to back, everything new. That includes a disc brake conversion from Shoebox Central. All good until I went to bleed the system, and the damn residual pressure valves are leaking. Not just a drip, but a constant dribble. I thought they looked kinda cheap. Are there better ones, or am I doing something wrong? This isn't my first time restoring brakes. Damn. And I paid attention to the little arrow, so they're going the right direction.
Seems like if you've installed them in the right direction and they are tight there isn't much you could be doing wrong. Inspect the flares on the lines, and the sealing surfaces in the valves and see if anything looks weird. I've only ever used Wilwood valves, no problems.
I find the cheap ones have a habit of leaking due to poor manufacturing , I only use Wilwood these days and have had no problems since [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Are they the red and blue anodized ones? If so, they are crap. Order the good brass ones from ECI. Also, do not use teflon tape.
Get a set of Wilwood ones. I put a set of cheapy residual from speedway and they did the same thing. The leaked from the fittings that were put in to the valves from the factory. Tried tightening them up with no change. Swapped them with Wilwood ones and no more issues. I took the cheap ones apart and the machining for the threads that the fittings screwed into was just garbage. They never would have sealed.
Look for the ones with a tube seat for inverted flare in the body NOT the ones you have to screw in the pipe to inverted flare adapters. I've had the "right stuff" ones leak and I've heard about Wilwood leaking also. I've heard good about the ECI ones for a few years and I used several sets of the ones from SSBC without leaking.
I've had problems with the wildwood ones. Get the ECI like Tman and Alchemy suggest. Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The problem with the aluminum ones is the fact that they have Pipe threads "NPT". That is a tapered thread and you end up taking the aluminum to failure trying to get them to seal. I remember a drawer when I was at the rodshop that had several Wilwoods and and cheapies all with bunged up threads OR split from over tightening. Brass seals better and has been used for ages for fittings.
Damn, I got on here to update the progress (I hate unresolved threads) and I see a lot of recommendations for brass valves. Well, I just put in a couple from Wilwood and they're leak-free, so they will stay. Now the friggin' proportionong valve is leaking. I tightened it up just past my comfort level and there is still a drip or two. Now, I love Shoebox Central, but I gotta say, the disc brake conversion kit leaves something to be desired. There are other issues too, like the front brake hoses being the wrong angle at the fitting so when you tighten them they're likely to crack (one did, and leaked). O'Reilly's part #BH38621 and BH38620 work muck better, with some tweaking to clear the spindle uprights. Okay then. I'll get a good prop valve, bleed the brakes AGAIN, and all shall be well...
Screwing in the tapered npt threads it's very easy to crack the aluminum housings. I use a liquid ptfe paste on the threads and never had a problem, the adaptors that come with Wilwood valves already have it on them, it's red in colour Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app