For those in the know..... While plumbing brake lines= keep them close to the MC as possible, OR, place anywhere suitable? The valve will/should do it's job, BUT- there might be some hidden factoids I'm un aware of- hence my Q. Only concerns are fitment, routing, and accessibility (on my part). Thanks.
As close to the MC as possible. The residual valves hold pressure in the lines to the wheel cylinders to stop fluid drainback to the MC & keep from having to pump the brakes to build pressure. If the MC is mounted below the height of the wheel cylinders, the fluid given enough time sitting can literally bleed dry past the master cylinder lid gasket. Especially in the older MC where the gasket was cork instead of rubber.
Chessterd5- Thanks. MC is "under the floor" , Just a little above the WC'S, so hence the valves. I'm aware of operation, just the location pertaining to the MC. Just was/and am asking the distance from the MC. Close to, enough will work, doesn't matter, spot on within a certain distance..... The valve will do it's job, regardless, just the placement. Thanks.
Yeah, that's when I try to do too. I have one bend, then right into the residual valves. So probably just a couple inches from the M/C Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I probably have 8" between my master and my ECI residual pressure valves. I don't remember where I read it, but it is recommended to mount them as close as possible to the master.
As close as possible to the MC but if you think about it any place in the line that is still level with or below the ports in the mc should be fine. If level or below you won't get much if any drain back on the input side of the valve. It's only the rise in the line on the output side that you need to worry about. On my f100 dual res conversion the mc is still under the floor with about 12" of line ( including length of bends) between the mc and valves. It works great with no issues. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ok-Here's some issues/concerns...... Close is going to be 10'' toward the front, and 8'' is going to be close toward the rear. MC ports are parallel with the bottom of the frame rail, but not lower. Issue with exhaust running from engine to rear. I'm running manifolds, and the drivers pipe will run under the MC, and clear by a good 2'' +.That will be the only place the pipe is close. It's bad enough that the pipe(s) will be visible under the frame.= Highboy A w/ no channel. Also- solid frame, not a stocker. I would like to route my brake lines toward the top of the frame rail, to keep them far away as possible from the heat. S0- If the valves were at the distances I had said, and were say an inch or more likely two above the MC ports, would I be asking for trouble? Thanks Guys.
I would still say they're ok. Worst case is there might be some extra bleeding if air gets trapped in the high point of the lines.
Thanks- I have a pot pressure bleeder, so I'm sure I wont have an "air pocket" issue. Just an inch or two might make a difference here..... Thank You. I just don't want to fudge up when all is said and done....... I know it's not brain surgery, but getting things correct/right, is what has to happen the first time, and only time! Yes- I know braking very well... But in relation to my hot rod woe's, I have to ask those who know!
I have a question. When you refer to residual valve do you mean factory (and some after market) style block type (multi purpose) or the in line front (2 to 3lb) and rear (8 to 10lb) residual valves.?
Bill-Aftermarket valves. Drums all around. MC under floor. MC is not high enough to not use the valves, and being on the safe side here...... Just "doing the homework', so I don't get myself in a pinch. There is a method to the madness so to speak..... I'm looking for the in's and out's of the right way (lol) of setting things up, and want it to be correct and jive..... I can bend(fudge some), but my dimmentions are very close... I know it's been done to death here, but to aid me and others to follow, I only want to do this once.....Thanks- Kid
Is the car in the building stage or drivable and trying to "dial it in". In all cases ,the rule of thumb has always been, as close to the master as possible. You have established your minimum distances already. I guess it's gonna be "lets see what happens". Bill
When doing some research before buying residual valves I read a whole lot of people have issues with cheapo aluminum units. Everyone said to buy the nice br*** units from ECI. I did, and have been happy with them for the past ten years.
If you're using the inline valves I've been using the SSBC valves with success. Basically you want a valve with the inverted flare built in on both sides as the pipe to inverted flare adapter leaks no matter how much sealant you use.
To answer some Q's pertaining to the post..... Starting at a rolling frame, and mocking up brake system, as of now. Body is lonely sitting on it's cart. I have valves already, but after reading some other posts regarding valves in general, I will be buying different units from different mfg's than what I have. I will use what I have for mock up since they are here, and I can start plumbing away..... Not every application,be it the same car(body)/frame, engine, trans, MC location, and all the other factors included, are just not the same. + Getting things working as they should/properly with what I have. The principals have been laid out about distance. Now it's configuring lines and placements as I go...... I appreciate all the feedback about my Q. Now it's about execution, and running lines. Thank You all for your tips!
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