Perfect That’s what I’ll do for now, then this winter either modify the gates or buy a new shifter Thanks Dan
It’s a sickness I tell ya @RodStRace but I enjoy a challenge. For now I just want to get the car up and running. I’ll do something similar to what @swade41 posted for a reverse lock out. At present my main concern is knocking or shifting into R. When I start adding power I’ll have to think about more positive shifts. I suspect at present the best acceleration may be achieved by simply leaving in Drive. Dan
I've seen something as simple as one of those lock hasps used. Flip it over once in gear. Truly low buck!
Only issue I had with my BM Pro stick is the aluminum trigger wore out in 6 months of use. It was getting egged out and I couldn’t engage 3rd, reverse or park. Made one from steel and it’s been perfect for 8 years. Great shifter.
https://www.kilduffshifter.com/ There seem's to be a Lot of going On with that Kilduff shifter & there other models , I seen onetime in a pic , Thought it was a "One Off" , then seeing its actually being marketing / made. I am curious to see How the working are under the plate ,,, Definitely seems more complex , Distraction & moving parts than the Old lightning rods of the 80s by Hurst & in some of the Hurst 442 for automatics. Nothing Like a True Lenco Lighting Rods before Air pods
I have that shifter in my 41 with a full manual reverse th400, you wont find a more heavy duty built shifter that's for sure. There's a video showing him hitting his ratcheting shifter with a baseball bat and it only moving one gear at a time. He has some great ideas on how a shifter should work and several videos showing them. https://youtube.com/@briankilduff?si=1cCtKO_44oZ4MHox As far as my shifter goes, there's a round bar with fingers that selects the gear, it's pretty interesting how it works. The shifter on the left is park, reverse, neutral, first and second for sure but maybe 3rd too. I just put that one in 1st, 2nd stick to the right is 2nd gear, pull it down and it goes to 2nd, push it up and it goes back to 1st as well as the shifter on left moves back to 1st. Next stick to right is for 3rd, works the same, pull down for 3rd, push it back up and it goes back to second, 2nd stick stays down in 2nd position but shifter on left moves up to second. The stick on far right is for neutral, it moves down as soon as you pass neutral with the shifter on far left and stays down while in 1st 2nd 3rd. So if you're in 3rd and want to go to neutral you push it up and somehow it bypasses 2nd and first and goes to neutral moving the 2nd and 3rd sticks to the up position as well as moving the left shifter to neutral. So effectively while driving forward I only use the 2nd and 3rd sticks, since second is also first in the up position. It's definitely fool proof
@swade41 sounds great. Not the baseball bat thing, I try not to require brute force driver to machine interface! That you have a RMVB and can clean shift to neutral. That's been a minor quibble on quarter mile stuff. You are in third, boogieing and suddenly something happens where it SURE would be nice to be able to get to neutral.
I've never actually done it with the truck running and moving but I've tested the function with the motor off and the action is fast.
If you do some research you are never supposed to put a automatic in neutral at speed. It can lead to a transmission failure. Companies do make valve bodies with either a clean neutral or a safe neutral which are different. Just a thought as you design your shifter.
Hello, Reverse lock out is mandatory. Even though, in a 3 speed, it has a different way to get in in gear. Neutral always should not have a lock out. When in any gear and the motor conks out, one can try to restart it with the key or in gear with the clutch out. But, more than likely, it can be started by shifting back to neutral to start while rolling or stopping on the curb of the street. We had in our hot rod sedans and sedan deliveries, many times, the motor would conk out. Luckily, it was easy to put the transmission back in neutral to restart our old flathead motor or even the 280 hp 348 Impala motor with the 3 speed transmission. Jnaki When we got the C&O stick hydro, there was a reverse lock out. That was good for safety in all forms of racing or driving around the cruising area. Most of the time, it was in “D” but if I wanted to shift manually, I could start at “1” and go through the gears. But, why? First gear was so tight that I had to shift almost instantly. Second gear was better and I could start with the 4:56 gears, but again, why? If I left, there was no lock out in the reverse gear, that would have caused many problems. So, yes, reverse lock out and no lock out for neutral for your set up. YRMV
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