Solid mounts can cause vibration and drumming problems and rubber mounts can separate (which causes issues of its own) with high torque engines so what I've done is use stock motor mounts but I drill a hole right through all the layers (steel and rubber) then use a Grade 8 bolt, lock washer and nut to hold everything together. This way I get the best of both worlds. This also is undetected and all looks stock as I don't like turnbuckles, chains, etc.
Back in the late 60's/early 70's I used to work in a Ford dealership. Some of the big block cars (428 Cobra Jet) came from the factory with tiedown cables on the front motor mounts. It solved the mount problem but I often wondered why the mounts weren't designed properly to begin with as the tiedown cables and hardware had to be a very expensive quick fix. Dave.
Special mount R&D and that met the national guidelines, met harshness standards and held up to the power just for a handful of cars vs standard rubber mounts for normal driving with a torque strap for spirited driving on the handful of cars.
I'm building mine with rubber motor, trans and body mounts. I figured most factory cars do it that way for a reason, so I probably ought to also. With a mildly warmed over engine, I figure it should be pretty sweet. Just made sense to me.
I had solid mounts in my 55 chevy with poly trans... No vibration problems... Went that route after I broke a mount and had a throttle stick. Luckily I was fast on the key switch.
The Jalopy Journal
