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Projects Road to Redemption: 49 Chevy Coupe Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by deto, Sep 11, 2014.

  1. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,071

    chaddilac
    Member

    Lookin' good!!
     
  2. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,739

    bobss396
    Member

    Again, very nice work!
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  3. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Thanks dude. I'm trying to put a lot of thought into every piece.
     
    1927graham likes this.
  4. El Hueso
    Joined: Nov 24, 2001
    Posts: 2,387

    El Hueso
    Member

  5. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Thank you
     
  6. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    I have been working on my trans x member in my free time. I wanted it to match the stock ch***is work as close as possible, while still being removable, and also providing rigidity to the ch***is.

    I drew up the stock x-member, then ***embled my design to it, and removed the offending stock areas. This piece will get all the edges radiused and the faux rivet treatment like the motor mounts. trans.JPG
     
    Habitual, kiwijeff and volvobrynk like this.
  7. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,739

    bobss396
    Member

    This is the way to do it for a complex part. I've been doing my stuff in 2D Autocad, it gets the job done for most of what I'm doing.
     
  8. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Hey, any CAD is better than none. It really helps with the build process. My situation is unique because all of my fab equipment is at work, not at home, so I need to make the parts off of the car first, not being able to constantly check it
     
  9. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 17,625

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    Nice! I love the coupes too. I built a 406 SBC/4 speed for my 50 [with front clip from my '49 parts car] and after "herding" the damn thing down the road with it's original steering box for a year, I switched to a '54 steer box. Made a world of difference but I couldn't tolerate the super long "in your face" steering column. I cut mine down and used a rag joint 8 inches from the steering box. Made it much more pleasant to drive Rockysdeliveryindriveway.jpg .
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  10. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    I picked up a 54 box for that reason. I know the earlier box has bushings not bearings. Luckily I'm not too tall so the steering wheel placement isn't an issue, but I can see how it could get annoying.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2014
  11. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,694

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    We cut the center section out of the stock "K" cross member. Then we took a transmission cross member from a Dodge Dart, shortened both ends, welded a plate to the top for the rubber mount, and bolted it right into the stock, now modified, cross member. Cost nothing to do, had to drill two holes in the "K" member, and it works fine. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    Habitual likes this.
  12. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 6,012

    daddio211
    Member

    Just got caught up. I love the length you'll go to for the details you want!
     
  13. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Thanks man. I have always wanted to do a car "right" and this being the car of my youth, I figured there is no better time to take it to the next level.
     
    daddio211 likes this.
  14. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    So I cut as little of the cross member out to get the tail shaft to drop in order to get a 3 degree crank centerline. It looks like the mount I designed will clear the reverse shift lever as well.
    1419721824574.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2014
    Habitual likes this.
  15. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    So here is the cross member fabrication and the finished product. I will be mocking it up tonight. Laser cut formed and welded. I also welded three internal stiffeners to keep the cross member from flexing under load, and when tightening the trans mount bolts
    1419985120671.jpg 1419985180601.jpg 1419985198836.jpg 1419985210611.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2014
  16. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Here it is installed. Fit pretty damn good. The offending areas will be scribed, removed, and plated in for strength.

    1419991360577.jpg
     
  17. theman440
    Joined: Jun 28, 2012
    Posts: 386

    theman440
    Member
    from Las Vegas

  18. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Thank you sir.
     
  19. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    I don't need the Walton mounts anymore. They were just to locate my block. If any body is interested in them I will sell them for $100 shipped. I paid $150 shipped...

    1420150870514.jpg
     
    Habitual likes this.
  20. Great story, I'll be watching.
     
  21. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Thank you. I have read your build thread on your truck. Very cool ride.
     
    1927graham likes this.
  22. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 727

    studebaker46
    Member

    I can tell by your build you have a lot of auto savvy, but with that being said you do realize the 57 chev rearend is probably just as good as the olds or pont rears. it will definitely hold up to the combo you are using Tom
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  23. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,694

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    You should market that crossmember as often as what other guys ask what to use/do. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  24. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    I have heard conflicting info on the tri-5 rear ends. Some people claim that they are weak...

    I'm not super confident it will tolerate the abuse that comes naturally with a 4 speed
     
  25. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    That might not be bad idea....
     
    Habitual, volvobrynk and 1927graham like this.
  26. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Nothing special tonight. Just removed the stock exhaust hangers and rear brake line bracket. Going to relocate it to the drivers side. Tomorrow the plan is to pull the drive train and finish with the stock x member clean up as well as parking brake pivot removal and some other stuff.
     
  27. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,739

    bobss396
    Member

    I save CAD files for anything I build in case it has to be modified or made over.
     
    deto likes this.
  28. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 727

    studebaker46
    Member

    I was teenage in the heyday of tri fives. the rearends held up to a lot of teenage abuse seems like the weaklink was the four speed usually from teenagers trying to cobble them together without any knowledge tom
     
  29. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Nice 49 (the first), and nice 49 project.
    Very nice work. I really like the way you do your fabrication.

    And that motor mount and trans member, is up to par. And is so good you should be able to sell them, and not only to family! That look every bit as good as anything from any other vendor.

    Did you weld the spacers on the motor mount? And is there room for the stuck fuelpump?

    Nice work.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2015
  30. deto
    Joined: Jun 26, 2010
    Posts: 2,619

    deto
    Member

    Thank you for the compliments.

    Yes, there is a spacer behind the motor plate to allow the use of a stock fuel pump.

    I had read that guys would grind them for clearance but I figured it was best just to add a spacer.
     
    Habitual and volvobrynk like this.

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