Inspiring picture!! On trans...post a pic or look at serial number. Normal V8 trans will have serial beginning with 18 or 99. The 60 normally got a tiny trans, and serial would begin with 54.
the trans was the same size as the others so salvaged the casting . the spacer was too pitted but available new. anything else I should salvage?
That one looks like it froze while full of water and bottom of case is blown out! Save the funny bolts, of course, and always save the throwout arm...there are several different ones 1932-39, and it is a rule of physics that you will need a different one to get your pedal and trans happy!
made a mdf jig to reweld my torn rear horns cleaned up my front cross i may need to cut it out but i will start with something kinda symmetrical.
repair to front fender brace holes underway If anyone with a 32 pedalbox could take some measurement for me please let me know I need to know the location of the pedal shaft. How far in front and above the K member to the center of shaft.
Another question. I am welding up the steering box hole. When I reopen it for my f100 box what direction should I fudge it. Down? Or should i wait untill im fully mocked up with exhaust?
Wait until you have the parts you'll need before you do any cutting/welding. This goes for ANY fabrication. Kinda hard to know how things will fit without the parts to check from. Sure, guys can tell you how theirs fit, but maybe they didn't measure exactly the same as you did. Better safe than sorry.
Personally I think '40 rear axles are too wide on a model A or Deuce, We used a flattened '40 crossmember, '40 spring, mounted via '36 Bones to a '34 rear axle, I think it places the rear wheels in tight.
Probably going to be a few things i will comprimise on. I do agree about the width but Im not looking for low. Who has a 32 pedal box handy?
Been researching rivets. My front cross member was brazed in and all rivets gone. It is cleaned up and I'm close to reriveting it back in . I have contacted big flats rivet co. about the proper flat and round rivets and some for the hurst style mounts. I had a good look at the rivets on the frame and at first glance i thought there was extrnal tooth lock washers under each one BUT.....it seems the rivets had flutes? formed in them . Anyone ever seen this ? Can it help me date the frame? There are no #s stamped. Thanks
taking a chance on exact placement but the pics on internet looked center to center as far as master cylinder and the four bolts in K member. Worked out well Used an old sledge head for straightening bolt holes
mount the bits Mounted engine and transmission. Started fooling around with designing some legs. Made them out of hardboard as it is the same thickness as the channel i will have a fab shop brake for me. 5.625x1.75x0.125 Made both sides as one is notched for master. I found my frame to be very symmetrical. I will make a plate out of 0.25 to tie the bottom of the two channels to each other and the K? 48 inches is perfect so thats what I'll order.
Used a piece of mdf to enlarge the stock steering hole to 1.25. Waste of time Going to move the hole back 1.5 and down 0.5. I'm also going to cut the flange off and make one out of 0.375 .
Crank pulley has clearance Fan needs to be moved back. Any tricks PLEASE let me know. I think i have some car pumps. I have a solid plan for the pedal box. Double shear like 32 but using shortened/narrowed 37 pedal shaft and pedals.
If you're not planning on running fenders or a hood, why not just slide your front crossmember forward to give you a little extra clearance?
You mentioned you had to re-rivet your front crossmember anyways, so I figured that might be your easiest course of action. We pushed the front crossmember ahead 1.5" on my 34 ch***is. Since there's no fenders, it's not noticeable at all from a side profile.
Well my orgional thought was to keep the frame as stock as possible. I would still like to, if it can be done. I suppose there are different years pulleys pumps and fans that will allow the frame to retain stock wheelbase. Any info on how to shorten the front accessories, what years works with what? thanks for looking.
From what I have seem and learned from building my 34 is the fan needs to be mounted on the genny on a 32 frame. That might give you the needed room. I could shoot you a pic of my stock 34 engine if that would help.
Thanks Matt . That might work . My rad is chopped 2 plus inches , so i think that fan sits quite high. Could you measure from mounts on water pump to upper tip of fan. fan diameter and distance ahead of pulley from pulley center? When i mount my radiator i can mock it up to see.
No problem. I wont have a chance to work on it till the weekend. Speedway has an adapter that can be modified to run a fan on my gen. Sounds like it might work. Thanks again
Seems like the early style is shorter. From what I've read moments ago 59ab ? I dont have one or parts . I do like the look of the front crab dizzy tho seems more cl***ic. Just found this http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/59a-8ba-dimensional-stuff.35029/
Got a quote for bending up the rear leg channels. $25 each. 48" × 5 5/8" × 1 3/4" od. Pretty cheap improvement i think. I have all the dimensions and angles if anyone is interested. Also have plans for the master bracket too for any DIYers
I have a Walker model T rad for flathead. Very nice piece. 19+ inches wide. WILL IT FIT A 32 SHELL? the height is almost perfect for my 28 as far as the reading I have done. 32 stock is 27" this is just over 24. Read that a 32 shell needs to be chopped 2.5" for a nice hood line. ANYONE CONFIRM? I don't have a shell yet. thanks
just get an 81A generator and use a 32 V 8 fan. 81 a is from a 38 it is 2 brush and uses a voltage regulator instead of a cut out, a 39 standard uses the same gererator. 39 delux has a generator like a 40 wich does not have the large bearing for fan support in the front if you are using the cut down radiator you will have to cut down a 32 fan so it doesnt hit the top tank I have a super nice chrome cut down 32 fan if you need one
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