Hot Rods Roadster build.

took a low quality 7\16 bit and made it the same profile as the rivets

pilot drilled with a 5\16 to the desired depth then used the rounded bit to make a bucking bar.

rivet just sits proud.
2nd and 3rd attempt. factory dome on left and mine on the right.

I cut my first attempt in half with a zip disc and after sanding to clean it up you couldn't tell where the parent metal started or stopped against the rivet. I drilled the hole 1\32 oversize and it filled the hole entirely.

 

mounted it on the rotisserie and put the front in to check out the wishbone length. 2.25" extensions would have been better but the 2" will do. it is very nice to flip the frame over as much as I need.

 

Wow!!!
The Rivets look great!

Where did you bought the 4X Gun ?
What brand is it ?

I need one , too

Thanks
Micky

 

Thanks again. I bought the gun used off an ex airplne maintenance student. Never noticed a brand name. It hits smoother and harder than a typical air chisel. Those rivet were set in one or two heatings. Im impressed, looks awesome and seems as strong as it can be.

 

better shot of the bucking bar.

bisected rivet.
here are the rivets I spoke about earlier in the thread. kind of a bottle cap look.?

more front end stuff done. cut up a spindly A drag link and added 3", temporary.
**** load of fitting and grinding to get the straight spring into the curved cross member

 

Always wondered why guys don't heat and forge that section of the crossmember out rather than grind away the spring.
Rear legs and the rivets sure look nice!

 

I thought about straightening the front as it wouldnt have taken much but then the center bolt would have been out. I have an aversion to my torches, gas is too much money. My little bottles empty quick.

 

Just found & read your thread. You're killing it! Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks , lots of fun just bolting stuff together. A few parts need modification but its more of a tweak here or there than building parts from scratch. I love antique cars with vintage engines and this one is going to be fun.

 

Will my 42-48 rear spring work on the 35-36 rear if i bush the large spring eyes? Advvice and qualified opinions please

 

I am not 100 % sure , but i think the
Spring hanger distance isnt the same , so you have to check

 

The hanger difference is 1.75 but the later spring was not under tension as it used a panhard bar. If i swap out the soft bushings for steel and stretch the spring 1.75 for pre-load? Who knows ? Maybe problems with the clearance on the the large eye and 35-36 mount.

 

5/16" rivets came in along with the setter. Made a bucking bar . Huge difference between 1/4 &5/16" took 3 heats and some quick juggling to get a decent dome.

 

Bit of deja vu for me on the rivets and spring grinding.
That's good progress!

 

Nice work, lots of build features to follow. Bob

 

Cheers guys. Thanks for following along.

Opened up a late 40s banjo last night pretty simple and straight forward thanks to the info here. Everything was nice but there was a little water in there. Spider gears are a little pitted but I'm not using them (swaping to 36 , bells, axles ,carrier and spiders). The pinion has a small bit too ,nearly superficial , ...
how much is fatal.?

 

oh ya. There was only one gasket on the left and metal to metal on the right . Is that common.? I havnt measured the gasket chunks from the left bell yet.
is the a standard for gasket compression to give me starting piont. Minus a thou?

 

This thread is full of hot rod and fab goooodness, great job on all of it bct.

 

thanks harv. going to look for a beefier drag link. the biggest one I have is just over 1\2" in diameter. anyone got an idea of the years and models I should look for?

 

Cleaned up some rear bones.

 

Nice ch***is work, I'll be starting on mine soon. Bob

 

F100 has a beefy drag link but it is too short.

My stock 34 drag link is about 1/2" and seems ok we parked on pavement it turns fine and doesn't bend.

 

Cutting off some farmer brackets.

 

See thru drums are great when rusted

Convenient that the tt was already shortened with an axe.

 

Juice brakes.

Anyone want the 36 drums and backers?

 

Decided to spend some time on the pedals and take them to the next stage while I wait for some rear shackles

Not done yet.

I still need to drill and tap out the pinch bolt hole so I can run it all the way through and then add a castlated nut . The salvaged ford pinch bolt winds up being upside-down with the threads of the blind hole topside. Not ideal.


I will need to relieve the bottom plate a little bit ,for the m/c plunger arm and weld it on . I will have a pro weld that for me.

Also cap is needed to cover the end of the shortened clutch shaft and the pin hole drilled. This will happen when I set up my throw out arm and clutch rod .

FYI here is what I used from the 37 pedals. The mechanical brake tab is ground off .

 

I reconfigured the pedals and adapted them to a more 32 ish style pedal box.

Remember this wood junk? The shaft center wound up a little lower and further back than the first try with the wood model.

few more shots

I had to offset the double shear to allow enough room for the bolts

*note ...not square



Bottom side

In the frame



The brake pedal is an inch plus longer than the clutch but no big deal . The other set has pedals the same length.



I wonder where I can get a appropriate pin for the clutch boss.?
Do they come in a rebuild kit? Anyone???

 

found pins at the early ford store .

looking for the hardware to mount my 36 rear bones . they need to have a proper shoulder and castlated nuts . anyone have a source? thanks for looking.

 

Worked on the x

 

Clean design. Lovin the rivits!


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.