hmmm would you be able to get the filler neck shortened? it looks like that could give you a few inches...
If you can get the *** end up high enough the radiator and cowl will be even! HAHAHAHA Just screwin with ya! I think triming down the filler neck is about the best option.
Have the rad shop add a filler neck on the inside face of the Rad, that way you could bring down the shell flush or almost flush with the top tank.
thanks guys, im going to a rad shop this morning to see what they can do. i want the fill neck on the motor side like an elbow anyways, but the sides of the grill shell are already hitting the top sides of the tank. so removing the neck really wont bring it down unless i section the shell in the middle and add a couple inches to it.
still no solutions on the rad hight. not a definite but as soon as i slip on the new wheels and tires, i may look at either moving the rad forwad of the cross-member or just getting a smaller rad all together.
on the rad subject, think i can lower the rad about 1" to rest on the x-member with thin rubber pads. then as mentioned above, move the fill neck to the motor side and lastly possibly widen the grill shell about 1" to allow the radiused corners come down further about 2". that would give me about 3" total. dont think that will be enough but then again i dont think i can go smaller than the 16" high core area. on another note... i was messing with the thought of cutting the end of my lakester headers, while i let the paint on the drums dry... dont know if there will be any benefits from this. i would like to do small turn outs but dont like the look of the 3 bolt flange with the turn out bolted to it. id rather weld a curved piece to turn it out 30 or 45 degrees. i am planning to no longer run an under car secondary exhaust. after i swap my carb set-up i will hear how it sounds, if its too loud ill baffle them. these pics are 2 different ways i could cut the header ends, this is messing around with trash paper. 1st is to let the header run further on the back: 2nd is to cut it angled top to bottom: again, this is just a thought thats why i did it with trace paper. if not maybe some slight curved pieces welded to the end to direct the toxins away from the door and p***engers.
^^^ so ive been told. got any pics? alright some real progress on the roadster finally... got the wheels back from powder coating and i am impressed, superb job they did! mounted the tires with inner tubes the very next day. had them put the balancing weights on the inside lip then i touched them up in black paint to hide them even more. the front end, waiting on king-pin bushings, mine are sloppy. also gotta just ream the hubs to slip in the new dorman studs. ah and also cut the top of the spindle to clear the backing plates. then paint the spindles. the rear end, that was painless, almost. had to wire wheel the drums and paint them. turns out 2 of the wheel bolts where stripped but the studs werent damaged so i got that. the rear is done. minus suspension hight adjustments when the front touches the floor. (the front tires are just sitting there) looking much better in my opinion, cant wait to pull the body off and "finish" this car. after November though. ah i also cut the wood toe boards. once i get the new clutch / brake pedal pads i can finish that off. it came out great. lastly, the carburation. i couldnt bring myself to drop sooo much money on the 3x2 set-up, so i got an all free (i like free) 2 barrel set-up. its a 71 SBC manifold and a small base small top Rochester carb. got the manifold blasted and i painted it cast finished. need some advice as to a port on the manifold? i believe the pcv valve goes in it? does anybody know? thanks, Yaril
If ya gonna get the filler neck moved on the radiator have them angle the sides of the top tank so the shell drops down lower, that way you dont loose any core just a bit of tank.
its a 57 oval rag im building for a friend. just been side tracked with the roadster. did get it running already. waiting on parts to do the suspension.
some progress... while the spindles are getting new bushings installed and reamed and the hubs are having the studs pressed into them , i received some parts and continued working on other things. inside i made the wood toe board out of 3/4" plywood my friend gave me for free. the 30 Chevy pedals i modified to accept bulls-eye brake and clutch pedal pads, this was necessary to remove the floors without have a huge hole. i still need to make a gear box cover out of metal and secure the toe boards to the floor boards. i simply sprayed it black for now till i tear it down. also got a moon sweep tach. i simply removed the "Made in Taiwan" sticker and installed it. the motor got a 2 barrel intake manifold. cleaned the carb as best i could and sprayed it with the Eastwood carb bronze paint. did the base in a gloss black as well as the linkage. got a chrome helmet air cleaner and began to put things together. just need a couple more bolts and to fab a bracket for the accelerator cable. with that ill give myself a free plug, the 2x4 is up for sale so if your interested: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300943
man i cant get over how wild this cars is! i never woulda thought to mate that back half with a model a but it sure works good! ill bet its real nice having those sedan doors to get in and out of instead of those damn narrow roadster ones!
its been a while since i update this, since my last post i have taken the trans out cause the starter chewed up my flywheel, bad. it ended up being that the mounting surface of the starter was wore out and upon tightening it would be totally misaligned. luckily all went smoothly. i got the trans out in about an hour, a friend gave me a flywheel, had it resurfaced and balanced, then another friend gave me a starter that works. now it engages perfectly. installing the trans took a bit longer, some 2 hours. but all in all it wasnt terrible. now im waiting on a carb rebuild kit to make it run smoother. im also pending a shim to finish up the front end, but the driver side is tight, so i got to installing the brakes. they went on smoothly. cant wait to put the other side on so i can put it on the ground. did some "body work" today. the car has bear claw latches and being a roadster i dont need exterior handles, but the holes or part of what was the holes were still on the doors. some of the sharp metal was also causing issues. so i got to filling them. what did i use to fill them? well, being on the radius area of the door i thought of cutting a piece of pipe. sure enough it only took a little flattening to match the curved surface. a test fit: so i weld it up. this pic is of the p***enger, it required a small flat piece above and a smaller tube for the lower area cause they were rusty. im not going for perfection here just cleaning it up, so i sprayed some similar oxide red and a bit of clear to match the low gloss. its a heck of a lot better, again not perfect but sure beats having some rusty old holes there: Thanks, Yaril
If you want a poor mans tripower i will tell you an old trick.A friend of mine had a 2 barrel intake like yours.He made a plate that bolted under the carb but was long enough to mount 2 more carbs in front and behind the original carb.Of course the end carbs were dummy only and just for looks.Paint the plate intake color and you are set.You would be surprised how many people never noticed.
I noticed the radiator as soon as I opened this, and thought "Damn, that ruins the car" I had the same radiator problem; I Z'd the frame too much. I ended up putting a taller body on it! I will have a radiator in hand for the next frame build. You may have to go custom.
thanks guys, um, no fake carbs. thanks for the thought but i think thats just gay, fake carbs that arent even on a 3 carb manifold? maybe in a car with fenders but what will floating carbs look like, i know, ****. sorry yeah, i will have to work on the radiator. its an issue that bothers me. im sure i can fix it, just not before the turkey rod run. thanks again for the feedback all.
the pics **** cause i put it down late. tomorrow ill get better daytime pics. you cant really tell but the proportion of the wheels are great. just enough big and little. gotta source and install my brake hoses and brake lines to make my front brakes work but at least its all there and ready. thanks yall, Yaril
looks great Yaril. Gonna have the brakes straight by weekend? You taking it to the Burger Joint on Saturday? See Ya there.
hey Terry, dont know if the brakes will be oporational by Saturday, but that wont stop me from going out that night to the burger joint. see ya there for sure.
Hey Tylerdurben, what year are those wheels form. You have me itching for some spokes and I may ditch the wide five setup I have collected. That car is awesome dude!
i know i know. it will be plumbed soon. Hey Jeff those wheels are off a 35 Ford. I got them from Jimmy over at Rally America (alliance discount may i add). these are all 16s and he sent them to me sand blasted beautifully. yes you will see it at the TRR, i am looking forward to that 4 hour drive in the car each way!
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