Got all the lows pretty much filled then I applied another coat of filler and started blocking it with 36 grit keep in mind this is still the early stages of the refined shape. Now with it all blocked down its ready for a final skim coat to fill any deep scratches. For this stage I sanded the skim coat with 120 grit on my 3M "hook it" blocks using the 3M purple abrasive sheets I really like this paper it last a decent amount of time an doesn't seem to clog up like the "stick it" paper does.
All sanded and ready to move forward. I like breaking up the body work into each individual panel this keeps me from getting overwhelmed and trust me it's easy to get in over your head if your not careful.
So now that I've covered the body work process step by step the rest of the cab will be mostly before and after pictures.
The cab corner where the door closes is a pretty high impact area I have the gap a little loose so when you close the door it's not slamming against the cab too hard but still shit can happen so I used long strand fiberglass filler in that area it will stand up to impact a little better than Bondo.
That's all for now tomorrow I'll finish the back of the cab, then start on the drivers side then it's ready for polyester primer. Thanks for following along!
Enjoy watching, I have used the long flexible sanding blocks that you can change the rods in for working on roofs , Also when I get to 120 and finer that tends to load up quick I use a flexible long board that has a vacuum hooked up to it to pull the dust out and not load up the paper. Here are pictures of these. I can appreciate the time and effort you are putting into this project. Like MIKEY said try it you will like it. There are a couple of close ups that has information where to find them if you are interested. Frank
I've been wanting to try a vacume block I bet there pretty nice. Sent from my LG-MS870 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
The vacuum block works great, especially on some thing that is flexible because it pulls the block down and you don't have to push down as hard. I been in body shop since I was 11 ,starters sanding cars to get my bike painted, stayed in it till I was 70 . Repaired a lot of hail damaged roofs and you know how soft they can be, they just blocked out real nice with it. If you lived closer I let you borrow it. I live in Denton just 20 miles north of Dallas.
Yeah that would be real nice for hail jobs. What kind of vacume do you use? Sent from my LG-MS870 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Finished the last of the body work last week and got it ready for polyester primer. This is basically everything I used to for the body work.
Now on to the primer, I used the feather fill G2 polyester primer, it's basically Bondo that you spray on. I sprayed four coats over the entire cab. Sprayed a guide coat and let it dry for a few days before dry blocking. It took me a full day to block the entire cab to get it ready for the final primer. Ready for the final prime.
For the final primer I'm using the Nason 421-19 2k primer just like before 4 coats over the entire cab with a guide coat at the end.
More progress coming soon! I hope to paint the cab this coming weekend! I had some time away from work and was able to visit my family in Tulsa while I was there I got to check out 3w Larry's new project! Good luck with your new truck Larry!
Yes I was very thorough checking the fit at every stage. Sent from my LG-MS870 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Damn how have we not ever met! I know mark warrick and all those guys too. I've got to get by your shop and check this thing out. Awesome work man. Lots of inspiration for my coupe.
Man you're really doing an awesome job! I really love hot rod pickups. Your painting tech is really good as well. I used to paint at a body shop and all we used was Spies Hecker waterborne. The 8180 clear rocks! We used the 8035 clear also which is the HS clear. Can't wait to see it all together!
I just painted the cab this weekend and used the 8180 im sold on that clear I just wished I would have used it on the rest of my truck. But it is pricy! Sent from my LG-MS870 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
New update I'm glad to say I'm finished with the paint work next I'll be moving on to the cut n buff stage but more on that later. View attachment 3235348 I did all the final sanding with the palm sander and 400 grit paper After the cab was all sanded down its ready for paint. I bit the bullet and bought a nice high end clear to spray on the cab, this clear really is amazing! I'm spraying the Spies Hecker solvent base, and the Spies 8180 clear.
To give you an idea of material cost just in this pic a half gallon of paint, clear and activator was $850 and I still needed a gallon of reducer for the clear which would put the price to over $1000.
Now to the good part! Paint covered in two coats. Now for the yummy! That's all for now, next I'll take you step by step through the cut and polish stage. Thanks for looking.
The Jalopy Journal
