Anyone out here a guru with the old 2G carbs? how about using them in a tripower set up? i have been trying like hell to get the center 2G carb dialed in and cant seem to get it! I have rebuilt many carbs and never been stumped like this. I keep getting an overly rich condition at idle and dry carbon fouling the plugs. I have gone through the carb several times and cant seem to see anything wrong with the carb but at idle the dam thing will not respond to mixture adjustments and will run with the screws seated in with no visible drip/ spray out of the venturi cluser. I am only running the center as of right now till i can get it dialed in and then will work with the outboards. The center carb is rebuilt with all new parts, new base that seals up nicley with no light coming through the throttle blades when you hold it up to the light, new idle mixture screws, jets are 57's, the idle pickup tubes on the venturi cluster have been enlarged from 0.036 to 0.040 (this is not the problem), new pawer vlave and piston, accelerator pump with the correct linkage. I did have to trim a few coils off the power vlave piston spring so that the vaccum would hold the power vlave closed durring idle(best i have gotten so far was 14inhg without aircleaner and 10inhg with aircleaner), it was alowing the power vlave to hang open and gas to dribble out of the venturi cluster through the main jet ports. Once i trimmed the spring that issue was fixed but I am still having a rich idle. anyone have any ideas as to what it might be? The throttle stop is 1 3/4 turns out and the blades are not past the intermediate/ transition ports on the base plate so i dont think that they are drawing fuel from there but it is a possibility. I almost forgot but the engine is a 1965 383 lowdeck Chrysler with 9.75:1, stealth aluminum heads wieand wpd 39 intake, and a howards cam: Cam Part No. Cam & Lifter Set Part No.723515-12 IN / EX Duration Lift Lobe Separation Angle Intake CL 274 / 282 .488 / .488 112 108 1600-5600 Fair idle, Street/Mild Bracket, good low to mid range. 2500+ stall, 9.5:1+ CR.
You probably already did this, but the end carbs need to completely "killed" (however you decide to do that). Just disconnecting the linkage so they are not actuated is not enough. I had one end 2G that interfered like that. I blocked it off and was able to isolate it. But I'm guessing from the tone of your email, this isn't your first rodeo when it comes to carbs. don
If the car runs with the idle mixtures screws all the way in then the throttle blades are open to far and the engine is running on the transfer slot. The center carb base should not seal tight when the blades are shut, otherwise you are not getting the idle opening exposed to vacuum. The outer carbs should seal tight. My recommendation would be to remove the outer carbs and block them completely, get the engine running on the center alone then add the front and rear individually.
I finally figured it out for the most part. I did have the outboards sealed off, i was refering to the center throttle blades during the assembly process as far as them sealing up nicely. The over all fix to get the set up dialed in was to drill a 0.145 bleed air hole in each of the throttle blades near the center(I first started with a 0.105 and stepped up 0.010 till Igot the desired results), while also utilizing the base 3/8 vaccum port routed to the oil puke tank with an inline PCV valve that opened at 10inHg. I also opened up the idle bleed air ports on the top of the venturi cluster an additional 0.004. I also removed the accelerator pumps from the outboards as well because they were just shooting way to much fuel when I throttled to WOT and adjusted the linkage ratio to open the outboards. This set up did not like the inital and total timing I had originally so that got changed to, 17 initial and 37 total all in by 3000.
That setup looks cool. Runs better now? Have you had it out on the road where you can really put your foot into it? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ran the shit out of the Coupe yesterday and had my foot in it the whole time, ran like a top. Im still a fan of the Holley 6BBL set up tho but you just cant beat the look of the 2gs. Hopfully my rants on here will help other gear heads out that are running a 2g tripower set up........ hahaha I do however need to swap out the outboard filters as they are dirty as all hell. hahaha
Please don't waste money on those air filters, but keep the hard parts. Look in to a filter element from a Chrysler K car. They will fit your metal parts, and are about six inches tall. The small elements you have will not flow enough for your CI and your vacuum readings are proof. Let those inches run!
Really? What years for a K car or do you happen to have part numbers? I'll run them for sure Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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