Rochester 2G gasket help...

Rebuilt my Rochester 2G and matched the gaskets for replacement but I'm not exactly sure if I should switch one out for a different one provided in the kit. It's the gasket between throttle body and intake manifold. The old gaskets were pretty beat up and brittle. And a ton of gunk was in this area. Should it be open like this or covered over?

What is this area called? Should I stick with the same gasket as this?



Or should I go with one of these and just cut off the 'tabs' sticking out?
The thicker gasket seems interesting and could act as a mini-spacer?
(LEFT pic is standard thickness gasket-RIGHT pic is .25 in. thick gasket)


I've looked at manual, diagrams, read posts but can't find any info about this. Thanks

 

They give you every gasket taht they got layin around the warehouse just to give you a pause.
Have a look at the intake, that is the piece of the puzzle that is missing and confusing you. The gasket seals carb to intake and when you look at the intake the choices will narrow down. When an option i go for the thickest most isolating gasket as long as it seals the right areas.

 

If you have the original intake for that carb, you'll notice a hole on each side that is probably plugged by carbon buildup. These used the first gasket you showed to allow heat from the crossover passage to warm the carb. If you are using it with any other than stock intake, don't worry a out it, use any gasket. If you are using the stock and open up these passages like they are designed, it will probably run like s!!t because of the low volitility of todays fuel. So I suggest using fhe solid gasket.

 

Agree on the solid gasket, I'm a lazy bastard and wouldn't chop off the ears unless they were in the way of something.

You can always pick up the OEM gasket with the reliefs at any parts store (in theory).

Bob

 

Solid Gasket it is. Thanks.
I've read up a little on carb spacers, and don't think I need one , but will the 1/4 inch make any noticable difference?
I did read, however, a 1 inch spacer has good results with a stock 2bbl 350.

 

Nix on spacers- u couldn't measure the difference with a 2 bbl unless the dyno reads in tenths of a horsepower, unless you just want to spdnd money.

 

The original manufacturer specified a gasket for a carburetor by tag number.

The most expensive components in the aftermarket repair kits are the fuel valve (a.k.a. needle and seat) and the accelerator pump (although the neopreme pumps which don't hold up to ethanol fuel are not that expensive). The aftermarket repair kits (one size often fits none), in an effort to cut down inventory; will do a cross-index on most carburetors that use the same (well, the same replacement anyway) fuel valves and accelerator pumps, and then toss in all the gaskets used by the most common of these carburetors. The choice of gaskets is then left to the installer (sometimes none of the included gaskets are the correct one).

When using an original carburetor with an original manifold; GENERALLY, one will have best results with the gasket specified by the original manufacturer for that application.

When using a carburetor on a different (either aftermarket or a different original) manifold, the installer will have less difficulty if the installer determines what gasket is correct for the carburetor, and then compares this gasket to the manifold to determine that the gasket does not create any issues (either vacuum leaks or lack of vacuum to a passage that needs vacuum).

If the carburetor in question uses a divorced (a.k.a. remote) choke; changing the thickness of the mounting gasket WILL REQUIRE recalibration of the choke (normally accomplished by bending the choke rod).

Jon.

 

Good info, thanks guys.
I'll slap that 1/4 inch gasket on and see what, if anything, happens.

Funny, I was so intimidated by a carb rebuild but it wasn't that difficult at all.
I've read these Rochester 2G's are easier to work with. I learned alot by taking it apart, cleaning and reassembling it. Good to know how it all fits together and how each part actually functions.

Before:
(mmmm is that a caramel glaze?)



After the cleaning:
(soaked overnight in a tub of warm, soapy water --liquid dish soap. Then soaked overnight with about 2 cups if pine-sol added to that, scrub with toothbrush & rags. BTW- it was fully stripped down to just the outer shell, no rubber or plastic. Looks pretty good, I think.

 

That carb came out clean! They're one of the easiest ones to rebuild.

Bob