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Technical Rochester 2g leaking gas

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Phil P, May 26, 2024.

  1. Phil P
    Joined: Jan 1, 2018
    Posts: 530

    Phil P
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm having a problem with my center carb. After driving the car, even just around the block I get gas leaking. It appears to be coming from the gasket between the base and the body. It stops dripping after about 10 minutes. I did take the top off and lower the float from .775"to .835" but it made no difference. As I said I only drove around the block after the adjustment so I don't think heat is the issue right now. The two outer carbs are not giving me any problems. Any suggestions are appreciated.


    Phil
     
    Tow Truck Tom likes this.
  2. BHRS
    Joined: Jun 20, 2009
    Posts: 51

    BHRS
    Member
    from Texas

    Either fuel pressure or needle is stuck or dirt keeping it from closing. Since just one carb I suspect the needle. I'd clean the needle, seat, and fuel inlet and give it a try. Worse case you'll need a kit and rebuild it.
     
  3. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,829

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Check with a straight edge to see if the top is warped.
     
    tractorguy likes this.
  4. carbking
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,868

    carbking
    Member

    Bugguts, deuceman32 and Tow Truck Tom like this.
  5. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,632

    Tim_with_a_T
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Like others have mentioned, double check fuel pressure, needle, and seat.

    Take a look at the bottom of the body- there are several small holes that were soldered closed/leaded shut from the factory as part of the manufacturing process. That could be a leak area.

    Also, check to make sure you have the correct gasket between body and baseplate. I made that mistake before, although that would present itself as a vacuum leak.
     
  6. hepme
    Joined: Feb 1, 2021
    Posts: 620

    hepme
    Member

    needle and seat. I replaced mine with what's called the "Daytona" valve sold separately-not sure by who now but you could find a supplier on the net. They work great in conjunction with an accurate fuel pressure regulator-set at around 3 psi. Note I said accurate, not using their built in dial.
     
  7. Phil P
    Joined: Jan 1, 2018
    Posts: 530

    Phil P
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It looks like I found my leak, it's been sitting since Wednesday and the manifold is completely dry. There was a small crack in one of the plugs that the manufacturer uses to seal the end of the passage under the power valve after they drill it. I was going to replace the body with a spare I had. Once I had it on the bench I poured some thinner in the bowl and could finally see the leak. I cleaned it up and put a dash of JB weld, let it sit overnight and tested it with thinner again. I put it back together, went for a test drive. It's never behaved this well.

    Phil
     
  8. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,268

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Cool, now you can go have some fun with it.
     
    Tow Truck Tom likes this.
  9. BHRS
    Joined: Jun 20, 2009
    Posts: 51

    BHRS
    Member
    from Texas

    Let us know if this is a permanent repair. JB Weld doesn't play well with the ethanol in gasoline. The JB Weld turns soft and will degrade. I usually drill, tap, and install a set screw with red loctite to repair this type of leak.
     
    Almostdone and winduptoy like this.
  10. Phil P
    Joined: Jan 1, 2018
    Posts: 530

    Phil P
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks, I will keep an eye on it. Now that I know where to look it will be easy to spot. I also always use ethanol free premium.

    Phil
     

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