Technical Rochester BC help

Got a rochester BC on my 235 in my 62 im building. I just rebuilt the carb and im having similar troubles that i had prior to rebuilding it. It has a rough idle, will smooth out some under light throttle but dies under heavier throttle. If i get it to idle down around 700 rpm it wants to die. The little vacuum screw on the base has no effect at all if i adjust it even at 4 or more turns out. I read online that the little hole on the bottom of the base isnt supposed to be blocked and it turns out i had the wrong gasket which was blocking it. Swapped it out to the right gasket and that seemed to help a tad. It also runs worse and has troubles starting when its warm as opposed to cold. I dont have a lot of experience with carbs so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys

 

Take a fine piece of stiff wire and attempt to thread it through that small hole. It's likely that air p***age is blocked with carbon/rust/dirt and not allowing enough air to p*** through.

 

I always go thru the electrical before looking for fuel problems.

 

I double checked that hole, at first i had the wrong gasket but i swapped it out so i know the gasket is correct. I cleaned it out with a little brush when i rebuilt it but ill pull it back apart and check. I did a full tune up on it before i parked it as well, points, plugs, wires, cap etc etc. ill double check everything tho, its been parked for a while. Any other ideas guys ?

 

Found the problem lol. The car never had the insulator/riser under the carb between the manifold when i got it and someone had stacked gaskets on it before i tore the carb off. I tried to run it with one thin gasket and didnt notice the bowl hitting the one stud so the carb wouldnt sit dead flush on the intake surface. I put the carb on without a gasket and noticed it right away as it was far from flush. So theres a nasty vacuum leak there and also the lack of a insulator/riser is probably my reason for rough running/rough starts after its warm

 

So the studs are too short for the spacer/insulator. In the meantime i stacked 3 base gaskets to resolve the issue of the carb bowl hitting. This worked. I shot carb cleaner around the carb base and intake manifold checking for vacuum leaks and got nothing so i think thats all good. The vacuum adj screw on the carb still has no effect. I checked the screw opening and the hole in the base of the carb and everything looks clean and not clogged. Im gonna swap the plugs since its been sitting in storage while i worked on it for the past year and its been fired up repeatedly just to move it around the shop. Coil looks beat to, might swap that. Any other ideas guys ?

 

Pulled the plugs, they look like hell from the hard starts in storage. Compression read right around 120 across all cylinders with a really weak battery. Im gonna tear into the ignition and re check my float level as well

 

Coil was shot, swapped it out, re checked the points and threw new plugs in and it runs wayyyyy better. Got the idle squared away. Idles at 500rpm in drive and i dialed in the mixture screw so its silky smooth. Barely hear it runnin inside the car. Im still having what i believe is a acc pump issue. If you ease on the throttle or give medium load its fine. But if you stab it hard it falls flat on its face and then will pickup after that. Also has a slight popping sometimes as your building rpm easing on the throttle but its usually super smooth. I havent been able to drive it yet, hopefully tomorrow. Any suggestions? Im taking the carb back off regardless to double check everything

 

While you have the carb apart, run a wheel cylinder ball deglazer thru the pump barrel until all scoring is gone. Using br*** hammer, carefully straighten the ears on gasket surfaces on air horn & fuel bowl. Soak pump piston in Marvel. On ***embly, take all slack out of pump linkage. Find the right studs & an insulator for the base. Use gas with no ethanol.
Advance timing until it spark knocks on hard acceleration, back off until slight ping on full throttle. I'd set idle speed down to 425-450 in drive, less driveline clunk when going to reverse.

 

I have a high idle issues when the cars first started. It will idle up around 1400 when its first fired up in neutral. Eventually it will settle down to around 900 when its warmed up a tad. I have it right around 480 to 500 in drive. Ill tinker with the choke a little more. Gonna go back through the whole carb tomorrow when i have time