Don, there are cheap screw in studs that resemble a carb stud, just a straight smooth shaft. They require no machining to the heads other then to tap the holes for them to screw in. To all reading this is Don and I swapping information. Please don't read anything into this at all. Sometimes a a pressed in stud will be pinned, it is a low dollar mod often used in claimer motor roundy round. If a pressed in stud is pinned no amount of prying or twisting is going to remove it without first removing the pin.
I don't see a pin. Looks like there might be a weld mark in picture 3. Looks like the lock screw is pretty deep in the nut on the next rocker in the picture. I doubt that there is enough stud sticking out to use regular locknuts hence the aftermarket nuts. Shorter push rods may be needed to get the rockers lower on the studs. Always fun to figure out what is in a mystery motor.
See if you can borrow or rent a slide hammer type puller with a set of jaws that can grab the nut you have welded on the stud. A little heat on the stud boss wouldn't hurt either but it would ruin the paint.
Doorman does offer a stud that will replace the press, the replacement stud is threaded but has no hex so you dont need to machine your head for the taller hex type screw in studs, the dorman part number was 693-006 dunno if its still available, so all you do is pull the stud out, drill to corret tap size, tap hole and put sealer on threads, double nut it and screw in the stud. done. No with your stud broke off its presents a problem, obviously you know that. first like Don other posted, try running a die over it for 3/8 24 fine thread, and then stack a few washers, start pulling it and see what it does, you may have to go back and tap more threads as you run out or add some more washers. remember to lube up the threads and washer, it all moves mush smoother that way. no if your not able to get that to work i would see if the stud is soft enough to drill, also obvious, keep the shavings out of your motor. so then if you are able to drill it out, drill it to the correct tap size and drill it and then tap it out. then install the stud and one. i though the intake rocker stud holes go into the intake port so be carefull of pounding the stud thru into that, youd have to pull your intake and fish it out. hope some of this helps. Also the last statement on this post says to get new pushrods, well be carefull of that, they make a tool to get the correct length pushrods, sold thru comp cams, it works great. if you get the incorrect length pushrod you can snap off rocker studs and wear valve guides prematurely. JEFF
i was thinking a slide hammer. u mentioned shorter p/rods. like a 1/4" shorter? and where to get them. summit?
I'd check with a local machine shop for push rods. When somebody builds an engine, you don't always know what they did to it. They may have cut the block deck or the heads. They might have put a different ratio rocker arm on it. Usually the fulcrum for the rocker arm sets at least halfway down on the unthreaded part of the stud. A machine shop could advise you on what to do and should have an adjustable tool to measure the needed length push rod. The slot in the rocker arm is only so long and if the slot hits the stud, it will try to bend it and break it. If the valve is pushed down too far, the coil spring might bottom out causing the rocker arm to try to lift the stud which usually pulls out pressed in studs or breaks them.
i just ordered rocker arm nuts and balls. stock type and a new stock stud its .003 oversize. question can i install this stud with the head on? and how?
Yes you can, put some loc***e on it put a couple of 3/8 fine nuts on, don't let the stud stick through the last nut, snug the nuts to each other and put the stud to the hole, make sure the angle of the stud matches the others and if you have a br*** hammer use it, or tap it in a little with a regular hammer and find a piece of s**** aluminum and drive it in to the same height as the rest.
done the same thing on my buddy's ford ,a good slide hammer set has a stud to go in vice grips replaces bolt in them clamp onto stud pull it out drive the other one in at same height helps to put stud in freezer ands warm head with torch drive it in let it cool will be fine
ok, so i welded a piece of 3/8th all thread to the stud. put a i/2 inch drive socket over it with some washers. i got it tight to the point i don't want to go anymore. so i guess tomarrow after work i'll put some heat on the stud boss and slowly turn it tighter. sound right? or is there something i missed JAN
I think you are moving in the right direction. I think heat is an important part of "releasing" the stud from the head. I don't have any idea how much heat, but I have heard that too much heat is also bad. I don't know it all that welding has hardened the stud, or if the stud is hardened, but, as I read the thread, I was thinking of cutting the stud off flush, drill and tap it, install all tread, then stack washers and "jack" it out. Sometimes drilling out the stud will releave some of the press fit pressure and make things start to move. You've had a lot of smart guys trying to help and I aint one of them, but for 2 cents what did you expect?!?!? Good Luck!
Sounds like you have now make sure you don't run out of threads as you jack it out keep adding spacers as needed.If you gave a good weld you should be able to jack it out.Don't get the boss to hot, just warm it up a bit, because as you heat that the stud will eventually get heated as well.
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