Hey all! I need to remove the balancer off my 1957 371 motor to have it rebuilt. As shown in the pic I have about 3/4" space before it would hit my leaf spring clamps. I could remove the clamps to give me about 1-1/4". 1) Do any of you know how long the crank shaft is? Do I have enough clearance to remove the balancer without lifting the motor? 2) Is there an oil seal behind the balancer that I will need to replace before installing the new balancer? No oil leaks currently. Your help will be greatly appreciated before I start this task.
I'm going to say that it will be simpler and safer to take the motor mounts loose and raise the engine enough to clear. I do realize that clearance at the firewall and transmission hump might be at a premium though.
Rebuilding the balancer? Otherwise, pull the whole thing with it on. If just the balancer, I'd also want clearance, can you remove mount bolts and raise the engine a bit? This ad here might help you figure out length. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1957-olds-rocket-371-vintage-race-motor.987045/
Yes, there is a seal around the end of the crank. Look closely before trying to remove, and have a new one in hand before trying to pull the old one. I ran across one front seal (2.8L german V6) that had to be installed flush with the INSIDE of the cover, which I didn't document before removal. Ended up taking the cover off, which was another pain.
I don't have one apart and handy right now but pretty sure there is about 2-1/2" engagement. you may have to remove the spring U bolts and lift the front of the engine. yes there is a seal in the timing cover, if it doesn't leak now you should be able to reassemble without replacing it. it is easiest to replace with cover removed, a fairly involved task of it's own.
OK guys thanks for your input I really do appreciate it. Based on your input I figured it would be easier, safer, and a whole lot less swearing if I just lift the front of the engine. I was able to lift it up enough and there is even room for a little more lift if I need it. Now I just hope it comes off easy ....and send it off for rebuild. You all never disappoint. Thank you and have a great day.
Damper Dudes in Anderson, CA rebuilt my Ford Y-block damper-great service, fast turnaround, and they will ship cheapest way, unless you request otherwise. Damper Dudes said that my damper was in pretty good shape; many/most that they receive have been beaten with hammers to remove/install. Don't do that.
Those guys do exceptional work, I had them do a rebuild on a very rare 57 270 hp Chevrolet passenger rivited hub/balancer unit several years ago and their work was excellent!
If the engine is internally balanced, I don't think it matters. However, the timing marks might be off. If replacing the cam, don't rely on the timing marks; use a degree wheel.
No hammering. My neighbor has a shop and I will be using his 3-jaw puller. Some years ago I had a little bit of oil seeping out from under the large bolt head. I read in my Olds manual that you are suppose to use sealant when installing the bolt. I sealed it and that took care of the seepage. Knowing there was oil behind that bolt head I'm hoping the hub/shaft is not seized up. I did talk to Damper Dudes yesterday and they told me that once they receive it they can turn it around in a day. Based on everything I've read and heard they do nice work. And yes, I will be using a degree wheel and check the timing marks.
That is a 371 externally balanced balancer, note the big weight cast into one side. It cannot be balanced separately from the crank. I don't think that there is any way that can be relocated but if your worried about it mark the weight location relationship to the keyway just to be safe. Early Olds balancers are a factory slip fit, it should come off easily once the crank bolt is removed.
Yes it looks like that thick section is cast into the unit. I'm just going to check the balance before and after to see if there is any change. "Slip fit".....I hope haha. Thanks Salt.
ah yes, don't know what I was thinking, the balance won't be disturbed, its the ring with the timing marks that could be moved, but if they are any good at what they do that shouldn't be a worry
Yep Paul you were close it is a minimum ~2.2" to remove from the crankshaft...and it was a light press fit. Easy off with the puller. Lifted the motor a couple inches too for a clean removal. Ordered a new seal from Rock Auto and just waiting on Ron at the Damper Dudes. I'll post a pic when it comes back. And now I hope the oil seal comes out as easy haha.
Have the new seal in hand and compare it before touching the old one! I thought I had axle seals. They were wrong, so another week wait because I boogered up the old ones.
Got the balancer back from Damper Dudes. They did a super job. I sent them the balancer minus the timing ring because it looked damaged to me. They baked out the unit and shot peened to clean it, installed a new ring, injected it with the resin, polished the oil seal surface, and painted it. Shipped from NY to CA, job done, and back in a seven days (USPS flat rate box). They turned it around within 24 hours! Couldn't ask for better service. All for 200 beans. I recommend them. Installed it and a new seal, scribed TDC on the ring with my piston stop and it's go time again. Thanks everyone for your help and happy motoring.
Great to hear positive experiences from companies these days, especially when it's for old stuff that requires skilled work.
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