I was so worried about my motor..Comp Cam XE274H, for my SBF..what made it worst was my engine builder wasn’t overly concerned with break in..and this guys built some high end Ford stuff. I asked about pulling spring, he said for what…I loaded it up with Lucas break in oil, pulled the distributor to prime it and check for oil pressure, got carb and distributor set and hit the key..I instantly revved it to 2K and my motor builder was telling me to stop..he wanted to adjust idle…I argued with him..he said “I’ve never lost a cam”.. I let him do it and I went back to 2K…after less than 10 minutes he said let’s go for a ride…I was apprehensive, but off we went…I kept it above 2K the whole time…cause that’s what I know…after that it got the 20 minutes at 2K deal, and oil changed…not sure if he knew his stuff or I got lucky..but it’s been on the road for 2 “driving seasons” and so far so good…
Why would anyone need a different "retrofit timing cover"? A cam button is always trimmed to length to fit whatever cover you have, so no reason to buy a different cover. And as I mentioned previously new pushrods should be installed regardless, so having to buy a different length really isn't an extra expense. Never heard of having to clearance the block up front just because you used a roller cam instead of a flat tappet? In talking with engine builders around my area nobody has said the block needs clearancing for a retrofit roller cam. And I can't find anyone around the internet showing installations of retrofit cams having to do this either.
I wish you the best with this kit. I ordered my Johnson lifters from bullet racing cams. They call them reduced travel lifters, but talked to a tech at Johnson and he said they call it reduced travel because the body is longer than a stock lifter. They were around $725 shipped and are the best I’ve read about.
When I called and talked to the tech I told him the exact same thing. They said to get this one even though it’s good for 7500 rpm. I then spent time trying to get a laymen’s term of what .035 is in turns of the nut after zero lash. Only the guy at Johnson answered me with 3 1/4 turns. Other said to use a feeler gauge or a dial indicator. I asked how would I do this with the engine running. Been a long journey for sure. I have read a lot of bad things about comp lifters made by morel. They either collapse or are noisy. Also read some post of the comp cam breaking in two. Hope it works out for you.