Mike, I understand busy. I still think we should get together sometime and kick tires. Pm me for my new phone number. I got married this last spring and moved. Been busy getting my new garage set up. It will be just about finished this week. Dale
That's Stan Back's, Mercury Torpedo Salon.. Check out the 3rd picture, this is pretty fancy for an Ex-Mordor! Lovin' the rear Halibrands!
Some pics I took of the Doane Spencer Roadster at the Petersen Museum ba*****t, during the 2009 GNRS:
I've looked at this axle in this picture and others and came away completely puzzled! The article in R&C says it is stock model A. It looks to me like two model A ends but welded onto a different center section. If it looks like the picture is it safe?
I've done a couple somewhat like the Walden deal only with a dropped axle. I used Vega steering and put a tapered bung on the tie rod for the drag link to attach to. You only see the tierod outside the car. If I remember right Johnsons Rod Shop did something like that with his Black roadster??
I'm pretty sure that it's not an axle that was welded together. Wouldn't make any sense to do that at all. The look might just be from how it was dressed during the polishing and chroming process.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241889&highlight=rolling+bones+street+rodder All their **** is in link #9.
Nope! haha. I have seen something that for sale aftermarket...maybe from fatman or somebody like that, but that's not done on this car. Not to push this thread too far off topic, but how would a car handle if the axle was hinged in the middle? wouldn't it cause crazy camber change problems?
I imagine if it were mounted to the frame at the center and the spring and shocks were set up exactly the same it would handle nice.
When I got my roadster I had some big holes that I had to fill on the side of the front frame. The big one was cut with a torch. Not very pretty. A few years later I saw Kens roadster at the Tyrods show in Boston. I measured the hole locations and sure enough the holes were located in the exact same place. He said it was copied from Doan Spencers roadster. My car was a hotrod in 1951 in So Cal. Mine never had the horns cut off but the through the frame shocks were in the same location instead of bolted on the outside like Henry did it. He said you have to weld 2 arms together to make the longer arm required. I couldn't figure it out until I saw his. Just a detail that means something to me.
If you run a Rolling Bones style setup is there a perfect split wishbone length, or is it based on what looks good in the eye of the builder?
I'm attempting this on a model a frame so here's my take on it. It's kind of a different can of worms but the same language. Its pretty raw yet, these were taken before the welds were started and finished even. (Just tacked FYI)
The Jittney built ch***is on the Walden coupe has some front suspension ideas worth studying. It appears that he used a pair of P&J style hairpin batwings flipped right to left and installed upside down, with bungs for the spring and tabs for the shocks and panard. One neat thing is he used a longer spring so that the shackles are hanging almost straight down after being loaded to help minimise the side load on the hairpins. Some clever ideas to study. The article in the RJ has some really good pictures of the front.
I noticed all these cars have the steering come out of the cowl. Can you pinch it and still use a F1 box?
Can't belive Ken (Mr Bones) has not chimed in on this to set everyone on the right path He may be busy putting new Siding on Barn, and its not Vinyl
Couple pictures of mine, had to make longer shackles because im using a 41 ford front axle. Still need to make a friction shock setup. Trying to decide whether to drill out the bones and axle or leave them the way they are?
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