This is a long and winding road and will take "a few" posts to get to present day progress. Bare with me please. This story begins Circa 1986 or so when my father figured we needed a father / son project and he brought this old girl home. 4H27K563315. 2Dr HT, Lorain, Ohio built in Feb '64. PS / PB / 289 / auto. 2.80 rear end. Carnival red with white interior. Originally a southern car it had ended up in Detroit at some point along the line and once here had been somewhat "hot rodded by the previous owner". Over the next few years I did typical teenager hot rodding and jerry rigging stuff, someone at one point tried to steal her (with a carb off) and left it to burn in the middle of the road and the fire department doused it with a tanker of water... Fortunately only a small spot on the hood was affected. When I headed off to college in 1992 she sat untouched for the next 6 years. In 1998 I told myself we are going to "restore" her and I put her up on jack stands in the shop and stripped it to a shell. I had 65 steering linkage from a parts car and converted to Granada disc brakes. I stripped it, blasted the non-sheet metal, put DP epoxy on it, painted the engine bay and underside for protection. Then life took a turn and I ended up taking a new job half way across the state and shelved this project for like 18 years. She sat in the barn at my grandparent's as a shell until 2012 when I moved it to my shop and it again sat until I moved back home and finally brought it here in 2018. Just a long line of other priorities, lack of funds, other hobbies. After moving it here I finally told myself you are either going to do something with it or sell it. I guess we know what choice I made. I have some old photos somewhere I will have to dig up but for the time being, lets pick up in 2018. Things don't move fast and I most certainly could use some motivation to remain engaged. Body work has been the least appealing part of this and I am currently neck deep. Fresh off of the trailer after finally selling my old home and moving her back to my childhood home.
I have a lot of catching up to do to get to present day. I will try not to overload at once. I have a thread I started at Comet Central recently and this will mirror that. Like I said - motivation! After a good wash job I thought it would be a good idea to get the front suspension squared away. First though I got ahead of myself one night after banging my head on the welded in shock tower bracing... For the last time. I have a removeable export brace to replace. Originally the 65 drag link had been installed with Granada spindles for disc brakes and the geometry was totally jacked. At the time the tie rod ends I used were not correct and I couldn't get the toe out so moving the car around was a real bear. You can see just how bad the geometry was in the previous post. I decided to scrap everything and start over. I had always intended to convert this car to manual steering and manual brakes (maybe this will change in the future if i can find a small footprint master cylinder and booster) so I opted for a complete CSRP manual front disc kit and his steering linkage kit. Springs, upper and lower control arms, bushings, ball joints are new Moog. I also went with roller spring perches. Stock location for the upper arms (no Shelby drop). I re-used the 1 1/8" swaybar that I had originally purchased 20 years ago. Not sure if that direction will change or not in the future.
I can't emphasize enough how 'good' the Shelby drop is ! It's Not just a way to lower the front.(doesn't really drop it much ..maybe an inch or two) The handling is vastly improved....steering is improved (especially if you go to manual steer) The stock suspension design is really one of FoMoCo's good ideas! Roller perches are a good idea too. Be sure and use the Shelby specs when aligning the front end. Factory specs just don't work with radial tires. 6sally6
yeah no road racing or aggressive cornering for this baby. Straight line at best. Probably M/T 26-4.0x15 ET fronts when I am done. I did pop for roller perches though!
Whatever........Just the over-all handling... passing....off ramps...steering around the parking lot..etc. greatly improved. 6sally6
I just finished a '64 a few months ago. Neat little cars. Here is a thread for 64 and 65 Comet Drag cars. History - 64/65 Comets old drag cars lets see pictures | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com) And, KabinenRoller documented his 64, which is one of the nicest you are ever gonna see. https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma.../kabinenroller/albums/72157686464305953<br> I There is a pretty good stack of Comet guys hanging around here so you came to the right place if you have questions. Don't forget to keep us updated and post lots of pics. -Abone.
the ‘64 has horizontal headlights - 65 + were vertical. I have a 331 sitting in the corner staring at me - waiting for me to finish the body work.
wasn’t trying to be confrontational. Just not something I had planned. The front suspension is purchased and test fit. If I am going to do the drop now is the time as I am doing body work and can weld holes shut and re-drill new. I am actually going for a bit higher stance and had planned on 26” tires so dropping isn’t appealing to me for looks. I am going to likely move the rearend back an inch or two and see what it takes up front to go 28”.
yup - been a member here for “a while” just have never shared my projects or participated. I need some engagement to keep me motivated and moving right now so hey - here I am. The Silver Cyclone is one badass ride….
Sweet deal....the rims on it could be killer...you mention 331...got a 4 speed? 9 inch?....I couldn’t find a Comet so I had to do a Falcon…I run skinny Pro Tracs with 5” Americans up front…just put new springs and roller perches in too..car sits higher now due to springs and leafs being replaced..I did Opentracker stuff . please keep us updated… My Falcon and some Comet Pics for ya….
I figured I had the front suspension tackled so I may as well tackle the rear end. In high school I had picked up a set of 4.11 gears from a local farmer and my birthday present that year had been a Detroit Locker and install kit. I hadn't planned on more torque than the driveline would handle at the time so I stuck with the 8". We will see if it lives with my choices. I had to literally cut the brake drums off of it when I brought her home and tried to roll her off of the trailer (I used the loader to lift the rear end to put it on the trailer). Upon pulling the center section apart the first thing I noticed was that I needed a new gear set... So I spent some money and bought a new set of 4.11 gears. Right choice? I don't know but it sounded good at the time and all of the drag strip calculators said bingo! I also took the opportunity to pull the locker apart and give it a thorough clean up before putting it all together - that was fun. BTW the first photo is an effective way to hold your diff in place while you torque your ring gear fasteners. At the same time I was busy blasting anything not attached to the chassis and painting it. I don't have more than a 24 x 24 attached garage here now (sure do miss the shop) so a makeshift paint booth it was. Worked surprisingly well for the most part. I went with rebuilding the drum brakes at the time. I should probably migrate to rear discs before I put it back in the car permanently. I have also noticed that I have developed some wetness on the axle tube to center section housing weld joint so there must be a pin hole or porosity. To finish it off I threw on a set of Calvert split mono-leaf springs and Caltracs. I am not convinced that the springs will give me the ride height I am looking for with 15" rims but we will see I reckon. I also think I am going to drill the pad hole one inch forward to move the rear end back an inch. The springs have rusted just sitting in the garage so I will need to re-finish those before I put it back under the car.
I have an 8” in my Falcon with an Eaton Tru Track with a 3:55 gear….that 4:11 is gonna be fun..I run 15’s on my car too..these cars can be a headache to get a tire under and I run 215/65/15 M&H Racemaster on the back.. Are you running an automatic?
Understood…it just seems these cars are sort of similar…same pita to get a tire under out back…shock towers in the engine compartment making things like header chooses and fitmemt being a hassle
Nice you taking all the risks…..that 331 will be a good test for that trans and rear end haha..I’m only running a pretty stout 289 with 11:1, Trick flow heads, rpm intake, comp cam XE274H cam
One of the things that had plagued me since owning this car was the loose steering. Some of it was the worn out suspension, some the horrible power steering shuttle valve and the rest the gearbox. I remember sawing on the wheel like you used to see in old movies to keep it going straight down the road. Mostly holding the wheel against one direction or the other. So with the front end rebuilt and the PS eliminated I was left with only the loose gearbox to replace but at that time they were unobtanium. Enter this old girl at Parts Galore (RIP) in Flatrock, MI. A friend and fellow comet enthusiast turned me onto her and I was hoping to grab the clutch pedal assy and other assorted items (most of which had been harvested already). Well it just so happened that on a cold October day in 2019 I snagged the manual gearbox with the correct shaft diameter for use with the new steering. Unfortunately whoever snatched the clutch pedals bent the steering column downward to extract them. I visited NPD up I 275 and picked up a rebuild kit and went to work. Some time spent in the press with the shaft marked and sitting in V blocks got it straightened out. Let me also say that my existing gearbox upon tear down was toast. Everything internally was extremely pitted so she went to the steering box graveyard in the sky. Luckily I harvested the balls out of it first because the “new” box was short two. But otherwise the new box was in great condition internally. I was also able to snag a manual column tube from Facebook marketplace locally from a mustang to rob the collar from for my column. Because 4 speeds are more fun than automatics… The finished product. While I was at NPD I picked up a new steering wheel. My original is pretty well deteriorated and not sure if it can be restored or not. I did learn that there is a difference in the horn and blinker contact architecture between generator and alternator cars. My car was originally a generator like all 64s and the wheel I got was for an alternator car and the center wouldn’t clock when installed.
Rootsy......you look like you're well on your way ! I have a 66 "M-word" and went through some of the same hurdles you are. 4.11:1 gears will scream(no pun!) for a T-5 transplant !! Are ya planning on a mini-tub for the rear? Like others said.."they just ain't much room" under there. (although...the smaller rear tires just 'may' save your rear end and tranny because the tires will break loose before the drive train 'parts' will !) NOW would be a good time to trim those shock towers down for a little more header room in the future. I REALLY like what you're do'in !! 6sally6
Agree with all of this…. I actually like the smaller tires..looks a little more period correct to me..kind of like the old SS cars 3:73 is a nice compromise…but man that 4:11 will sure plant your behind in the seat.. just thinking about changing my plugs next year makes me cringe..
I am following your build on this forum and Comet Central. The detailed information and pictures are interesting and will help others who are or will be building a Comet. (or Falcon) It has been mentioned that the rear wheel houses should be modified now that you plan to push the rear end back an inch or two. I agree. When I was mocking up my Comet I did some serious measuring before I purchased the wheels (width and offset) and the tires. ( height and width) With the car at the preferred ride height and wheels and tires in hand I proceeded to relocate the axle center line, and leaf springs, witch then mandated the inner wheel wells needed to be modified. I moved the inner wheel wells inboard and also lengthened them to the rear of the car. All of this is very inconspicuous unless you look in the trunk or notice the inboard springs when crawling under the car. My car does sit lower than most so I am sure ride height and tire/ wheel combination will determine what modifications your car will need. The shock towers can be trimmed to allow better spark plug and header bolt access, this is an area that is highly visible and modifications should be thought out and executed for maximum strength and visual appeal. In my mind success is modification that is unnoticeable. I always think about what Steve Strope from Pure Vision Hot Rods says… “it’s like an Easter egg hunt, the more you look the more you will find” Jim
no mini tubs or shock tower work. I have no plan on chopping this car up right now. Nothing outside of a 4 pt cage so I can mount actual seat belts in it. I have a little guy, not quite 2 yet. Maybe round 2 will include tubs before I give it to him. 225s will fit. That is what this thing came to me with. Plan is skinnies in the front and 8.5 or 9” stickies out back right now. Has caltracs so I have ZERO illusions of hooking too hard.
In the Winter of 2019 I decided that it was transmission time so I started looking for the correct 4 speed. Again, FB marketplace delivered and a short drive to Ohio later I had a T10. The previous owner told me that it came from a wrecked ‘65 Cyclone and had been sitting around for decades. I popped the cover before buying and she looked clean so $350 later I was on to my next adventure. A little research and it’s a wide ratio run of the mill wide flange T10. Disassembly wasn’t very exciting except for some porosity where those needle bearings ride. So new cluster gear shaft it was I bought a pretty straight forward complete rebuild kit, new cluster gear shaft, reverse idler shaft, forks and upgraded synchronizers and keys that supposedly help with the pop out of 2nd gear deal. After A LOT of soaking and scrubbing and some sandblasting I bolted it back together and primed and painted eBay provided a reconditioned Hurst and install kit. The mounting bracket required some time on the mill to relieve so it would actually bolt to the tailshaft housing. Then this week a NIB QuickTime bellhousing showed up on FB marketplace about 10 minutes from me for a price too good to pass up.
Devil Mother in law? I know, it can be rough, but we're here for ya man. Could be worse, you could have a mustang.
I realize now that I probably should have put off the power train until I had the body squared away. But when a late low mileage 5 liter came my way for $100 I couldn’t resist. My original 289 was a 5 bolt and had been punched 30 over previously. My reckless youth hadn’t been kind to it so it was pretty well used up and nothing special. I was really torn on what direction to go with this thing. Do I just do something very mild like a low compression 300 hp 302? Do I go wild and destroy the 8” and T10 I just finished rebuilding? Or something in between that can be turn key and still take the car to its design and build limits? I settled on #3 after a lot of pondering. I stripped the 5 liter down, swung through the local power wash for a quick wash and inspection and sent her over to Chuck Noonan for a thorough freshening of the block. Then I went to planning, collaborating and in the end going on a spending spree. I started playing with ideas and 306, 331, 347? 331 seemed like the best option and I even broke out the old desktop dyno program. It needed to run on pump gas which limited static and dynamic compression and it needed to be turn key reliable. Nothing more aggravating than having to fiddle with something every time you start it. I thought 400 hp was a good target so I called up Jim @ Ford Strokers and discussed my plan with him and placed an order for a rotating assembly and most of the other long block parts since his prices were hard to beat. I like one stop shopping. I chose a balanced rotating assy with Scat cast crank and I beam rods. Mahle flat top pistons and ring pack. Predictions may be a bit “optimistic”. I need to dyno this thing before I stick it between the shock towers… I settled on a set of TFS twisted wedge 11R 190 cc CNC heads with springs adequate for the camshaft. Camshaft is a Comp hydraulic roller “custom” grind suggested by Jim. To be honest it just uses Comp Cams LS lobe profiles. Finished her off with an Edbrock RPM Airgap and then called up Patrick @ Pro Systems and had him make me a carb. Someday I endeavor to have stack injection but I wasn’t quite ready to invest in that. Damper is an ATI SFI rated piece and the flywheel is a 28 oz SFI rated from FoMoCo. The cover I used is a standard rotation but the water pump port is on the left so that I could use an adjustable timing pointer. This of course will drive a somewhat unique but not unobtainable radiator with outlet on the right and inlet on the left. Series of build photos… I have an old set of Hooker Super Comp headers that I put on this car forever ago. Still undecided if I have them refinished or just buy some new Doug’s. These have some hammer marks in them to make them “fit” and are quite rusty. I never did enjoy installing them and I doubt any other long tubes will be any easier with stock shock towers. I used CVF front dress setup and a 200A alternator. Ignition is MSD and I have a Digital 6+ box floating around to light it off. Seeing how I built this in 2020 and it is now 2023 I couldn’t see leaving $10k sitting in a cold garage so I brought her in the house to live. My now wife “loves” the dining room decoration sitting in the corner. I tell her it is a conversation piece.
The Jalopy Journal
