Driveshaft will not move with suspension. IRS. Shaft is fixed at both ends between the ****** and the differential. Just need to space the tank up off the channel
Got ahead of myself again. I realized when I had the tank there I had nothing to mount it to. Then realized I never replaced that crossmember under the cab. Two birds one stone scenario. Wreaking of burnt acorns again. The front of the fuel tank will mount on tabs coming off this crossmember. Don't know on rear tank mount yet
Can I blame it on an old man's memory? I keep forgetting about this new fangled IRS stuff. The really sad part is the front axle on my 49 4x4 truck has independent front suspension... You are doing great. Keep at it.
Moving on to the parking brake, so i can finish painting the frame and put everything back together "permanently" While messing around i noticed something.
Had to cut 1 crossmember to clear the gas tank. Looks like the filler will line up like it needs to Now to take it all apart and make it pretty
I just opened up another can of worms. I tried taking this rear coolant housing off to see what can be done to make some more firewall room. Ended up snapping the bolt off. This is for the heater hose. To run a solid hose from this port to the one on the front of the engine requires a 5/8" heater hose. This falls directly where my gas pedal needs to be....
Is there some sort of highly flexible universal heater hose out there that doesn't require alot of space to go 90°? Maybe I should just go to a junk yard and find some pre bent hose.
I go to the parts store and ask to go back and look at the hoses. They have all kinds of shapes and sizes. I have never failed to find what I need, even tight 90's or more even U shapes.
I lost sleep over this. Now its a stupidly simple solution. I got so flustered yesterday after breaking that bolt i wasn't thinking clearly. I was able to get the broken bolt out also. I ended up welding a nut on.
Often I take a short piece of pipe or tubing the correct diameter, cut it in the center at a 45 degree angle, rotate the two pieces to make the angle you need, then weld the pipe back together. Add a short piece of hose on each end, and clamp the ends of the hoses. Another option is a pipe elbow and two short ******s, or a br*** or copper 90 bent tube of the correct size. The need to use a rubber 90 degree hose is not always necessary.
Bought a universal pre bent hose from the parts store. Done. Onto the next thing. (I know im bouncing around) Remote shifter. A buddy of mine gave me a shifter from a Toyota. Don't need the nub Looks like it will work pretty decent for what I have planned. While laying under the truck looking for mounting points for the mounts im going to need input found this little surprise from a previous owner. Bolt was finger tight, so I tightened it only to find out it just spins in there.
That is not good. Does it leak trans fluid out of the bolt hole? It appears the only function may be to hold the two parts of the trans together? If its not leaking, and has no other purpose, I think I would take a chance of leaving it go. There appears to be plenty of other bolts holding it together. If at some future point the trans is apart, I'd fix it then. If its leaking, or there is an addition purpose, I don't see any option other then separating the two sections and removing the broken end of the bolt, then replace the broken bolt. I can't think of anything with that long of reach that will remove the end of the bolt, unless you are lucky enough a long thin screwdriver might catch an end it it will easily screw out, and then you car retrieve the bolt end with a long thin magnet.
I bought this "kart" with pretty much zero history on it. The kid I got it from had some fibergl*** batmobile type body for it. The engine and trans are insanely clean, with many new parts and hardware. I think its a safe ***umption this was all freshly rebuilt, it doesnt make sense for that bolt being snapped like it was if it wasnt apart before. The other end of that broken bolt is exposed. It comes through the other side of the housing but just slightly dead heads into the housing on just 1 side of the bolt threads. It looks like i can grind a small amount out of the trans and MAYBE get some visegrips on the broken piece. Question is do i really need to worry about it? its not leaking and there are still plenty of other bolts holding the case together....
I'm a bit lazy and a bit of a hack. That said, I would not be afraid of running it. There are a lot of bolts around that pretty small diameter housing, and it does not have the look of a pair of parts that are under a lot of pressure. It would be one of those things where I would keep an eye out for a leak to develop. If a leak gets started, I would then see if I could get the end of the bolt out. It sounds like the bolt may have bottomed out in the housing before it broke, that could make the removal much more difficult.
Agreed. The motor/****** will come out 1 more time before final ***embly. I'll look at it then. Working on my back with my arms in the air isnt as effortless as it use to be.
Your a youngster yet, wait until you add another 27 years to your age and see how you feel! My son is 2 years older then you are, he is my youngest child...
I'm not cheap, i'm impatient. The new hoses will be in this weekend and I didn't realize I don't have tabs on the frame.
Some parts coming in slowly, and i had to reorder a few things that came in wrong. So waiting on that stuff. Will be going a slightly different route with the shifter design. This should be simpler and fool proof. Hoping the rest of the bits get delivered tomorrow. Pics Thats the remote shifter part. Waiting on some rod ends to connect it to the trans half. I cut down a stock shifter for the trans. It clears everything now. Will weld a tab on tomorrow for the rod end. Have a bushing kit coming in tomorrow for it.
You are doing OK. You are at the point, all the little things seem to take forever, hang in there, one little issue at a time. Take your time and make sure all this little junk works correctly before you move on. When your driving it down the street, the only parts of this little stuff you will remember is the stuff that doesn't work right while your driving around. That is when it gets really irritating, so fix it so it works correctly right now.
Thanks for the support Gene. Parts have been coming in. I redid the stock miata shifter bushings and rubber, and finally was able to weld the tab onto the shifter. The rod ends came in and I was able to finish making the shift linkage. I miscalculated the bolt length, and bought the wrong type of lock nuts. Also the rod ends didnt come with jam nuts. I will need to run to the hardware store tomorrow hopefully. I installed the rod, it appears that it will work, but right now its real sloppy.
A few more bits came in today Cheap universal ebay radiator. Will need to run the lower radiator hose across the front of the engine to make it work, but totally doable. Tires came in also. The tires the miata came with were Falken rt660's, those tires are really flippin expensive. These tires are the Falken rt615+'s, 1 step down from the rt660's. They are the same size, but I swear the new tires are narrower. The new brake booster came in also, but I didn't get a Pic of that. Its insane and will make life WAY easier. I was also able to finish installing all the brake hoses.
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