So i dont know what i did, but somehow my marker lights and turn signals all work!? Flash really slow though. REALLY SLOW. I have LEDs in the tail. Normally the opposite happens.
What you did was put forth some effort on the poor little truck, something it hasn't seen for years, and then you entered it into a car show! You have it excited now, its trying hard to help you out and its starting to fix itself, as best it can. The LED taillights probably solved a bad ground the old taillights had. Adding an LED flasher may bring the turn signals back up to speed. I had to add the LED flasher to my 49 Dodge for them to work correctly.
Thanks bud. I don't think i mentioned it t before, but this thing hasn't been licensed since 1983. Doesnt do much good sitting for 4 decades
I been gone for a while here. This whole off topic forum is still new to me. I didn't see any guidlines anywhere and don't want to go too far "off topic". So rather than starting a new thread I'll throw it out here. That being said... Who hear knows Miatas? Specifically early ones. I'm trading a failed econoline project for a parts 1991 Miata. I got questions.
1960 Datsun truck compared to an early Mazda Miata. -Miata weighs in at just under 2200lbs. Datsun weighs just under 2100lbs. -1991 miata engine rated at 116hp. 1960 Datsun 1200 rated at 48hp. - miata 1.6 engine length 18.9". Datsun 1200 length virtually the same. All specs accept for the Datsun length according to that there internet.
Anyone have experience with the Odyssey pc680 batteries? I like the idea of having a tiny AGM battery laying on it's side under the bench seat. The pc680 looks like it would be perfect for that. My concern is whether or not it would be big enough to power a modern fuel injected system with electric cooling fans.
I’ve used a pc925 for years. It cranks the 320cid Yblock with 10.5 :1 compression in my bird just fine. Runs the EFI, fuel pump, A/C, 2 fans just fine. Lights, wipers, heater blower for A/C required a bigger alternator to keep the voltage up. Then go compare it to the little lead acid in a standard Miata. (also full of accessories) I had for 30 years. I think you’ll be fine. I store everything with a shut off switch or a battery tender, they all last for years.
Don't know why I didn't realize this before... I have a buddy that owns a battery store! He said to avoid Odyssey. He's had to warranty roughly 1/4 of the batteries he's sold from them lately. With a few being junk right off the pallet. He recommended for me to go with a Deka EXT20L. Better specs, cheaper, and better quality. Internet says Deka batteries are same as Braille, just with different stickers.
Clutch master keeps going dry, found it leaking down the firewall inside. I took another gamble on buying parts. Got lucky again. Rebuild kit for a Datsun 510 exact fit!
Guess I better take good care of my Odyssey’s since they’re old ones. Thanks for the tip and the replacements.
Nothing says "screw this crap" like pulling a carburetor with a 13mm crows foot on your lawn, and praying you don't drop parts in the grass because the truck don't move.
Still chasing a brake problem. Had an "ok" pedal earlier today, then was able to get some help bleeding it. Now it's worse than when we started. I'm getting air at the front right wheel cylinder. Almost like it's sucking air some where, but there's no signs of a leak.
Air is thinner than brake fluid and the pressure in the lines doesn't always do what you expect. I'd go over every joint in that line and certainly would have new flexible brake lines on it.
Put a few hours in trying to get rid of this chalky paint. Went with the ol' rubbing compound by hand. so I wouldn't go through what is left of the paint. It now has a nice satin sheen to it. I ended up finishing with a coat of good ol' turtle wax right as it got too dark to really see what I was doing. Arms are dead now. Haha Hopefully when I go out tomorrow everything will be lookin good
Crumple up some aluminum foil, dunk it in some clean water, and start rubbing on the rusty chrome surfaces. As long as it's not peeling, it will come back. When you cleaned and honed the MC, did you feel any ridges or dips in the bore? Sometimes a simple hone does not save the BMC and it may need to be sleeved. And you can never overlube those seals, doesn't take much to roll a seal. Also, even with a rebuild I still don't floor the pedal. Slap a 2x under the pedal to prevent bottoming out. Wheel cylinders can suck air but not leak fluid. Verify the bore is clean and concentric. Verify the pistons are clean and free to move, a little drum brake grease is helpful as well. Depending on the system, sometimes the cups are not reinforced or have expanders. Wheel cylinder springs help with keeping the parts loaded in equilibrium, but if the spring ends are cocked a little they may cock the cup. Same with drum brake hardware, verify nothing is at extreme angles and drums are properly adjusted. Not a fan of pedal bleeding. Nor am a fan of pressurized bleeding. I am a fan of simple vacuum bleeding, no more than 15" inHg. Anymore, especially non expander/reinforced cups, can cause you to suck air past the cups. I'll use yellow 'gas' Teflon tape on threads of the bleeder nipple to prevent any false air bubbles, which just wasted time. Apply vacuum and watch the MC reservoir.
Trailering to the local car show, 4 miles down the highway. Only because I haven't won my battle with the DMV yet. Looks WAY better than it did!
Welp, it turns out this was a 1990 miata instead of the 1999 the guy told me it was. No bid deal. Its OBD1, so that's going to take some figuring out. I don't remember much of that stuff. I actually prefer the 1.6L because block is 1" shorter in length than the later 1.8L. Also supposedly revs higher. (According to the internet) This will definitely help shoehorning it into the tiny engine bay. 110hp stock. 100ftlb torque. 7600rpm redline. It looks like the rear subframe drops out with just 6 bolts. The rear strut upper mounts look like they'd clear the box just fine with no cutting. The front struts look like I'll definitely be cutting into the inner fenders. Putzed around with it a bit on the property today. Things sketchy as all heck. Has a fiberglass seat "bolted" in with 2 bolts. No belts. Rear diff is locked. Ear to ear smile
Welded some shit seats in the kart. My father decided to put the fear of God into my 16yo. It was epic. Then JR for his first lesson at driving stick. Went as expected.
90s VAF Mazdas are easy, 1.6 is a good engine. Can always bewst these engines. Enkei RPF1!?! SWEET! Those are by far the lightest/cheapest wheels you can get. Only thing that sucks is they will bend if you hit a pothole. But they are so cheap to replace. Great AutoX/RR wheel for the money.
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