That front clip actually looks like it fits pretty well. I might suggest you set the front sheet metal on and see how it matches up with the wheel openings, its a whole lot easier to shift it forward or backwards an inch or two now, before it is attached. Will the motor you plan to use clear the frame rails that are sitting inside of the struts, with the exhaust manifolds installed?
The motor mounts in that subframe. Everything is laid out for me, so I'd prefer to use it. The stock frame is way to narrow to keep, a whole 10" narrower. I took a quick measurement and it looks like I'll have to modify the firewall if I keep the stock motor position on the cradle. Life would be easier if I could push the engine forwards on the subframe. However that domino's into oil pan issues, and probably other stuff...
Needing to widen the front frame rails 10" is a lot. That is going to present a challenge making the steering column match up with the rack in a very short space. I suspect a major firewall modification is in your future. You may want to sit in the truck and start considering what has to be done to move the steering column towards the driver's door several inches so it will better align with the rack column connecting point.
Actually the steering appears to line up front to back. Unfortunately it looks like it will be at an extreme angle vertically. Im looking into options now. Whats the rule with these double steering joints?
Single steering joints max out at 30 degrees. I have never needed one of the doubles. When I built the Austin I mocked up the steering column with a couple of u joints and some 3/4" wooden dowel. I ended up putting one universal under the dash with the shaft going out at an angle. Then with a firewall fixture and a Heim joint support I cut the dowel and sanded double D ends to fit the joints. Then it is easy to change the length and determine the angle each of the u joint is subject to. I then machine steel shafting based on the dowel lengths.
The Jalopy Journal
