Rotten Datsun

Redneck mathematics shows the weight of the engine, trans, clip, and radiator should drop the suspension about 4"

 

Wish there was more time in the day

 

I have lots of hours building inner fenders on my truck. They are not pretty, but you can not see them under the fenders they are attached to unless you remove them and set them on the floor. Mine are completely removable from the fenders, with the fenders bolted in place. They do what they are suppose to do.

I suggest you install everything you need to have installed before you concern your self with the inner fenders. Make it run and drive first! Then, after everything else is done, cardboard (beverage containers) will be your best friend to patch together the inner fenders. You can cut, tape, and staple a pattern together then transfer the refined cardboard pattern onto pieces of steel you can weld together, and hold in place with screws. The purpose of the inner fenders is to keep the engine compartment free from road trash. They are hidden under the body, pretty is not what is important, function is.

 

In

 

Onto the spine.
I will have to lengthen the torque arm 10 inches.

 

Also obviously need to lengthen the prop shaft 10". Makes total sense because the trucks wheelbase is 10" longer than the miata.

Inside isnt terrible.

I lost the heater box and most of the duct work. The coils will need to be relocated from the back of the engine to the firewall. And the heater hoses on the engine need to be re routed, I think there is a coolant reroute upgrade kit available that may solve my issue there.

 

Some more t******* and prettying up needs to be done in this area yet.

 

FINALLY STARTING TO LOOK LIKE SOMETHING!! I love this part when it makes it from my head to reality.

 

Looking pretty good there. Bet its going to be a fun truck.

 

Been a while since I did anything.

Back bone needs to be stretched exactly 10 5/8".




I found this bent piece of aluminum laying around. The same thickness, and the bend radius is pretty close. I'll be able to make it work, but I have to do it in pieces. ****'ll be fine.

 

Slow progress

Going to skeletonize it to match and possibly buff it out

 

Finally! Just waiting on clear coat to dry.

 

Now onto this thing

 

The backbone looks good.

If I remember correctly, you need to have a longer drive shaft, correct?
It is not suggested trying to lengthen a drive shaft. Shortening them is something that can be done at home, making them longer needs the tube replaced with a longer tube. Splicing two tubes together can create a huge issue with balance at the rpm range a driveshaft can spin. There is also a limit to the amount of length a drive shaft tube can be, dependent on the diameter of the tube itself (if I remember correctly, the longest recommended length of a drive shaft tube under 4" in diameter is 65" long).

The drive shaft you have already appears to be pretty long for its tube diameter, however pictures can distort the reality. How much longer does the driveshaft need to be?

 

Fantastic!!!

I'm guessing 10-5/8".

 

Bingo! 10 5/8" longer.

I will be cutting the ends off and sourcing some new DOM tubing. From my research a stock tube has a inner diameter of 2 1/4", with a wall thickness of .065. I won't know for certain till I cut it though.

 

Internet says stock shaft measures 41 1/4". So I need to be at 51 7/8"

Both ends are fixed.

 

You should be good to go at that length.
Have you ever shortened a drive shaft before? The procedure to just change the tube would be about the same as shortening a shaft x 2. Just make sure the ends are correctly oriented with each other, and both are in the tube straight. Balancing can be done with a couple of worm gear hose clamps at home.

 

Yeah I've done a few shafts over the years. None ever had any noticeable vibrations yet.

Those were all on jeeps with mud tires, not that I would notice anyways...

 

I've done more then a few, I've never had a balance issue either (a few of them were on very quick drag cars), but there is a balancing process using hose clamps, if needed.

 

Bouncing around a bit.

I been wanting to do this 3rd brake light for a while.


Little 15 minute job thats been on my mind. I will be replacing the guts of the light with new hardware and a LED bulb.

Gene, you asked a while back for a Pic of the parking brake handle.

 

So you set the brake and then spear yourself getting out of the truck?

 

Sure hope not

 

Sure looks like thats how it is. This is the first time I pulled the lever.


Maybe when everything is hooked up it won't have as much throw?

 

I feel better about myself now.

 

Why? What'd you do?

 

Fuel tank mockup.


I'm trying to keep the filler neck in the stock location. Its pretty friggin close how I have it oriented. It does look like its going to be a bit higher than I want it to be though. I need to space the tank up a bit to get it off the torque arm. Its going to be VERY close. If im lucky I can get away with t******* a couple crossmembers under the truck bed.

 

Gas tank going to clear the driveshaft as it moves up and down with the suspension?