Being that the radiator I have has a trans cooler built into it i figured I should get the lines in while the floors are out. I plan to go with hard lines and wondering the best routing configuration to keep it looking clean. Was thinking to run along side the front of the cross member then to the frame to radiator. Online I found this routin diagram, a more simple application. Thoughts, suggestions?
Why put heat in the ******, you are trying to take it out......run an open air cooler. I had one on a 4L60 that lasted 460,000 miles...... Oh, I inspect vehicles and overheated transmissions are one of the most common problems.
Most cars that I have been under follow along the side of the oil pan to the front of the engine. Some cars even use an oil pan bolt to mount the lines to the engine on their way to the trans cooler in the radiator.
That diagram you posted is of a TURBOGLIDE transmission (of all diagrams to pick from???), and the cooling ports are a little different than those on a TH350 trans. There are pre-bent transmission cooling lines made, but since this is't a factory car you're dealing with, some modification would most likely be required (shortening/lengthening); it would depend on how your radiator is mounted compared to a stock one (forward/backward). There are also some pre-made, braided cooling lines available; what I'd probably do. Using an in-radiator cooler keeps things simple, but a separate cooler would be better, cooling-wise. Take a look at that auction site we all know and love; it'll give you some ideas of how to proceed, and what's available from the aftermarket. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I agree with Ricks Garage and use an external remote cooler. I use one on both my cars and the transmissions in both run nice and cool.
When I typed TH350 in the Google search this diagram showed up n thought it was the right one.....thanx for the correction. I plan to bend my own lines and leaning towards running them along the oil pan as everything is kind of tight underneath. I'm still going to look into the remote cooler option. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The in radiator cooler will work fine, unless you are already on the edge of your engine running hot. If you are close to running hot now, and ad the trans heat to the radiator it could put you over the edge to overheating.
As above, keep away from exhaust and secure every 12" so it doesn't move around when driving. Make sure that you use the correct fittings, with either inverted flare, barb or compression fitting. 1/4 NPS with parallel thread and washer for inverted flare and double flared hard line with tube nut (1/2 20 for 5/16 tube or 7/16 24 for 1/4 tube). NOT NPT tapered thread which will crack your case. I run my lines this way and use both radiator and auxiliary cooler as per OEM. If you run an auxiliary mount it where there is airflow and locate it where it can't get damaged.
I prefer the remote cooler, have used it on 2 builds now with zero cooling problems. Have checked it with a point and check temp gun several times with nothing to be alarmed about. They even make them with a fan if you choose.
I have a 500ci Caddy with TH400 in my 49. I'm using a Dodge truck radiator. I ran the hard lines along the edge of the oil pan, then split them apart under the front of an engine, pretty much just like the factory does it. My biggest tips are; measure, measure, measure And, make sure you put the fitting on the line BEFORE forming the flare....lol
Thanx for the info. Im going to look at it tomorrow when I mount the radiator but this seems to be the way Im gonna go for now. Main plan is to get this drivable ASAP. and yes I will put on the fittings before flaring, learned that one!
[/QUOTE] I would avoid copper lines, copper can be very reactive with the trans oil, serving as a catalyst to drive oxidation of the oil. Steel lines are harder to bend and work with, but won't cause the same issues.
I would avoid copper lines, copper can be very reactive with the trans oil, serving as a catalyst to drive oxidation of the oil. Steel lines are harder to bend and work with, but won't cause the same issues.[/QUOTE] plannin on steel
looks like there is not just one answer to this question I use steel lines, pre flared, and bend them to fit so I don't have to flare the end again (because I'm lazy, mostly). I've run them next to the engine oil pan like OEM, I've also run them along the frame rail so they're not in the way of working on the starter, etc. If it's a stock torque converter, you don't really need an external cooler, the radiator cooler will be fine. If you are building a race car or tow vehicle, and the torque converter makes a lot of heat, you need an external cooler.
You hit it all, it is a stock converter n not racing or towing with it. I was planning to use the pre flared steel line as well that I get at the local parts house
I'm setting mine up now. Should the lines be hard all the way or can you do a combo with some flexible ends near the radiator for vibration? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Keep away from exhaust like everyone said, run flex lines/hose or a coiled portion if you run it along the frame for flex or run it along the motor and short rubber pieces to radiator. Also if you go with a external cooler use the stacked plate type. My panel truck has two stacked plate type oil coolers instead of the in radiator one (can't get to the fittings because of the fan shroud) and the temp gauge never reaches 110 deg.
Thats what I was trying to find out from the pictures with the copper lines. Im gonna go with yes with the hose as a vibration dapiner
If there is a lot of repe***ive flexing copper lines can get hard and brittle and could possibly fail on you. I used the preformed steel lines. For once in my life I got lucky and it all worked out where the lines came out perfect and I didn't have to cut them back and reflare. I had considered a small rubber section for vibration relief but then I figured that over the length of the line there was plenty of room for flexing. Bobby
If you use a rubber hose, make sure it's made for cooler lines. Fuel line will last a while, then might fail, which can be way too exciting. Also make sure to put a bubble on the end of the metal line (the first step of a double flare, or just use the flared end of a pre flared tube). That will keep the tube from slipping off when the clamp relaxes as the hose ages. Look at OEM cooler lines on cars from the 60s-70s, they use steel line, no flex hose, the car maker routed them carefully so they can move a little as needed, and they often survive decades without failing.
I would avoid copper lines, copper can be very reactive with the trans oil, serving as a catalyst to drive oxidation of the oil. Steel lines are harder to bend and work with, but won't cause the same issues.[/QUOTE] I hope my lines are ok. They are nickel/copper not just copper. I remember they were advertised as brake, fuel and transmission cooler line tubing.
"Initiation stage: The hydrocarbons react with oxygen forming hydrocarbon free radicals. The reaction is catalysed by traces of transition metal ions like copper, iron, cobalt, chromium, etc" http://www.cjc.dk/fileadmin/user_up...on_in_lubricant_base_oils_The_Filter_2006.pdf
Here's a little "tip" I learned the hard way from. NEVER buy the rubber tubing that goes first on the roll, and last to be sold; it's wrapped very tightly on the roll. It takes a "set", and is somewhat flattened. A hose split on me on my Bracket Car, right where it had been flattened/creased. The whole p***enger side of my 56 Chevrolet Utility Sedan was PINK; the car was white. Like I said in my first post, look into the prebent/preformed hard lines, and you won't have any worries. Use your in-radiator cooler; if the hard lines don't 'fit" your setup, then modify them or use rubber tubing. You can also get a prebent vacuum modulator line, looks like you need one of those also in your one photo. Cool artwork on your website. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
My question is does the in radiator trans cooler contribute to overheating. How hot does ****** fluid get? I have done them both ways and my car with a separate cooler runs cooler on the water temp, but there could be many reasons for this.
If you use the cooler in the radiator, it transfers heat from the trans fluid directly to the coolant, then it is transferred to the air by the radiator. If you have a separate cooler in front of the radiator, that cooler will transfer heat from the fluid into the air, which then is warmer when it travels through the radiator, so it won't cool the coolant quite as much. Either way, the heat from the transmission does indeed slightly contribute to increased engine heat....***uming your engine cooling system is not sufficient. If the engine cooling system is good enough to keep the engine temperature under control, it's not a problem.
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