I’m replacing the door rubber on the 65 F100, pulled off the old rubber and there is a ton of old glue hardened up all the way around the perimeter of the door that I need to clean off to get a good bond for the new rubber seals. Does anyone have any suggestions on something I can use or spray on that will soften up the old glue to make this job a little easier. It ain’t coming off easy. Also, it’s supposed to be steady in the mid 90s here for the next couple of days. Should I wait until it cools down some before gluing the new rubber on? Just wondering if it’s going to be too hot to allow the glue to cure. Appreciate any tips or tricks to get the old glue off and clean up and prepare the surface. Thanks
This stuff is supposed to be safe for paint. Never used it, just going by the description for it. Others here may have used it, though https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...cleaner-15-oz-8987/10032368-p?utm_medium=ymme
Hello, We used lacquer thinner absorbed into a cloth. It took the rubber left over off and did nothing to the paint underneath. Try not to get the lacquer thinner on other surfaces as it is very powerful. But, it did nothing to the coated original paint that a good coat of Colonite Wax can't help. If the cloth and lacquer thinner does not work fast enough for you, then use a sharp edge plastic blade of sorts to push the melted rubber left over stuff off in small quantities. Like a plastic paint scraper that won’t scratch the surface paint. If you are worried about the lacquer thinner melting the plastic, use some on the handle first to see what happens. Usually, it gets the “stuff” off, but does not harm hard plastics of that nature. Jnaki Of course, try it on a small area to see what it will do to your project, before you spread out the soaked rag. YRMV
A scrapper and a razor blade have been the only thing that always removes the old glue for me. You really need to be careful that you do not scrape off the paint as well. When the old hardened glue is removed, I do wipe the area down with some lacquer thinner on a rag to remove any residue that still may be there. When you install the new rubber, coat the rubber surface making contact with the metal evenly with the glue, and also coat the location the rubber goes on the metal with an even layer of glue as well. When both glue surfaces are tacky, very carefully place the rubber in place. Get it right the 1st time, there won't be a second chance. When that tacky glue makes contact with the tacky glue, its pretty well stuck. As far as outside temp is concerned, I believe the temp has to be above 50 degrees F, but other then working conditions, I don't believe there is an upper limit, unless its crazy high.
As 302GMC eluded to, check with a local body shop and see what they use. The 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover works great on tacky glue......not so good on dried up adhesive cement. On my '54, I wire wheeled mine off then primed and jambed the doors. You can't do that. As stated, it's a long slow process involving elbow grease, plastic scraper and a razor blade. When reinstalling the weatherstrip, follow this procedure to the letter. It works really well!
I've used this on aircraft; takes some time and labor but it's always worked for me... https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40070712/
I use 3M 08984 Adhesive Remover. It's the same stuff that's in the spray can mentioned above, just in a quart can. Do not use a razor blade unless you are planning to repaint that area. I will use a small plastic tool like a small trim removal tool. Grind the tool down to a suitable width if need be. Wet a section about 10-12" long and let it set for a couple minutes before you start trying to work it off. No need in trying to do too much at one time, as the remover can dry up if its being stubborn. It will be a slow process, but if you are careful, and the paint in that area is in good shape, it will come off.
I would think that the 3m product is probably as good as it gets. I find that solvents like acetone and lacquer thinner evaporate too fast and damage some finishes. I have used varsol but more often reached for silicone/wax remover like "Pre-Kleano" because it doesn't soften paint and leaves the surface clean, but it requires soaking and scraping; I use plastic razor blades like these, https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Scraper-Blades-Removing-Sticker/dp/B08C7G6PSM?th=1
I have the quart can of that 3m stuff and it works great... was safe on white upholstery getting excess glue off panels.
Before using a solvent to remove it, try warming it up with an old hairdryer, and see if it softens the big bits. Then hit the rest while it is still soft with some solvent. You may have to try the usual suspects like turpentine or white spirits on a small area first.
Might try soaking a small area with a bit of naphtha. Works pretty well for removing glue from self-adhesive stickers. Not as "hot" as lacquer thinner or acetone. Plus you can get it in smaller quantities in a handy squirt bottle. It's the same stuff as cigarette lighter fluid that you'd use to refill an old Zippo lighter.
I just took some fossilized pin stripe tape off my Belair, for some of it the fingernail worked... then it was building up under my nail... ow... My girlfriend suggested Goo Gone, off to Ace Hardware. I grabbed a small spray bottle of it. I sprayed it around the tape on the doors on one side, came back in a few minutes and it was an immense help. I had to get it started with a razor blade scraper, but no damage to the paint. It took me 5 minutes, the other side I dicked around with for about 30 minutes. You could lay some paper towels on the area, soak them and don't let it dry out.
If it's soft and halfway peeling, use a crape eraser wheel on the drill. If it's hardened, best of luck to you try to glue your new seal over the old glue
I use to keep this on hand, Freeze it and pop it off. You can also buy plastic razor blades that are handy to have. Here is the link https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...bzBBlAdyKxpiGdcvofYn80ySMMKsSBHAaAt2xEALw_wcB
Reality check, it doesn't have to be 100% virgin painted area for new adhesive to hold. Get as much off as you can and it'll hold forever. Try a plastic scouring pad for help. More critical moving forward, do your level best at placing on the new seal. Avoid stretching the new seal, and once installed coat the whole surface with powder. I've used a throw away brush or a cloth. The new rubber will be really "grippy" and have you slamming the door for full closure. If you try silicone lube it'll be worse. The powder is a dry lubricant and allows the new rubber to slip into place easy and take shape without slamming the door to the other side of the cab (!). I'm old enough to recall when OEM seals in the plastic package had a coating of talc just for that purpose, and made the mistake of cleaning the whole seal vs just the glue surface. It works, you won't be sorry.
Hello, Goo gone… what a product. In working with cars, old and new, I get stuff done the first time I try something that needs work. So, if it calls for some rubber removal or a sticker removal from metal, I do not mess around with straight scrapers as it will scratch. My wife is always using “her” bottle of Goo Gone. (look at the small amount left at the bottom) It is her catchall for all removal of sticky items or stuff that is put on a product with serious adhesive. For me, I have used goo gone and it takes a while to soak the item in question. But, eventually, it does sort of melts the product, usually a label of some kind or silk screened label on a clear bottle. I like the instant wipe on wipe off attitude to get a job finished and the clean up is simple and easy. Jnaki Comparing lacquer thinner versus Goo Gone, for our granddaughter’s projects, we used Goo Gone. My wife’s product of choice. The lacquer thinner might be a little harsh for lightweight products or thin plastic material. So, caution is advised. Note: Lacquer thinner is strong smelling, but dissipates quickly. Goo Gone has a strong odor and despite all after product cleaning, still carries the aroma for a lot longer on the product, unless one sticks it under hot water and soap. Sometimes, even then it takes multiple washings… YRMV
Some one stuck Chevy stickers EVERYWHERE on my Belair. On the dash, the fenders and so on. On the stainless steel, carb cleaner worked fine. On paint, Goo Gone was the answer.
While it is true that WD40 will attack adhesive, given time, do bear in mind, that if you are planning to paint choose a location that is something like,,, the other side of town
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