Rule of thumb about triangulated four bar?

Ford 9in. in a 28 Ford.

Can anyone explain proper set up for a triangulated four bar set up.
I've heard everything...angles,ride height,intersecting engine....as
soon as I hear two people pretty much say the samething, I'll probably
go with that. Yes, I've seen pleanty of pictures. and have done a search.

 

Theres a ton of threads on this already.

 

That was helpful.

Here's one to start with. Some good info in there. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241516&highlight=TRIANGULATED

 

A response like this discourages sharing of ideas and information, Namely, what if the topic died out before a very knowledgable new comer joined up? Discouraging a new thread on an old topic would deny him an opportunity to chime in. I've used the search and studied the results. Then I ask again to get more. (end rant)

Some basics for a triangulated 4 link:

Triangulation makes a panhard bar, watts link, etc. unnecessary.
Fewer parts, more stable lateral position of the axle.
Lateral angle seems to work best at about 30 degrees. Less makes for weaker lateral holding. More results in excessive distortion of bushings. Less provides increased roll resistance, More decreased roll resistance. Find a happy medium that will fit in the space you have to work with.
Install the lower bars with the front slightly higher than the rear to encourage wheel plant and traction on launch. Never gonna race it? Level is fine and almost neutral.
Install upper bars with front lower than rear for same reason. Again, level is neutral.
Draw a line forward from the lower bar and forward from the upper bar. The point of intersection should be somewhere around the oil pan in a typical driver. Lower and farther back as power increases. ProMods usually have it somewhere near the driver's butt. Level bars have it out in front of the car, to infinity. That's nuetral. Raise the point up any higher and you lose weight transfer.
When viewed from the side, the functional length of the upper and lower bars should be similar to minimize changes in pinion angle through the arc of the suspension travel. Shorter bars on top are OK to a point. As suspension travel increases, so does variation of pinion angle. This is key contributor to u-joint failures.
Model your designs on paper and test on a board with nails at the pivot points to visualize the impact of changes.
Triangulated 4-links are the most versatile design around. Go for it!