Register now to get rid of these ads!

Running Hot Only on the Freeway

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blown240, Apr 14, 2009.

  1. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,815

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Here are some pics of the setup. The lower hose does have a wire in it, so I doubt its colapsing. Also I noticed that there are some metal shavings on the fans motor, stuck to the magnet. i wonder if these could be slowing the fan down? I need to take it apart and clean it.

    Here are some pics:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The Oil. It looks ok to me, but here are some pics...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Ok, I think we found the issue. You are simply not getting sufficient air flow even with your fan. The grille may look and even be a little more open but the air flow pattern again the teeth may be causing much of the flow to spill out and around the car.
    Make sure that all air that gets into the opening get to go through the radiator. Make up shrouding to ensure this.
    It looks unfinished, maybe some of the air is being lost through the unfinished areas?
    As for air leaving the engine bay? You have lowered the car a shit load from stock! The flow of air from under the car will be reduced considerably, ground effect may even be pushing the hot air up into the engine bay causing enough pressure to stop sufficient flow through the core.

    I may not work in a radiator shop anymore but I grew up in one. My father has 40 years experience and at one time owned 3 shops. For you Aussies he taught Norm Hardinge how to build radiators and was the guy that built the old John Cowling radiators. So I get my info from Australia's most experienced hot rod radiator builder.

    Doc.


    PS, do your selves a favor and don't buy Aussie Desert Coolers and never EVER trust Norm!
     
  3. Don't forget to check your belt tension. A loose fan belt might slip at highway speed allowing the waterpump to not do it's job.
     
  4. Also the horn position is stopping some flow, it will benefit from moving them. Even if they are in the stock position, remember you are demanding more than they expected of the system when new.
    I know it is street rodder looking but something to stop the air from going over the top of the radiator and support would increase cooling incredibly.

    PS, nice looking car, the new grille fits in well.
     
  5. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,815

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Cool, I appreciate the help, especially from you DocWatson. I will try out these suggestions and post the results. And yes the grille is unfinished.
     
  6. No worries, thanks man. I may not be able to help in too many areas but when I can I like to do my best.
    Doc.
     
  7. solid
    Joined: May 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,459

    solid
    Member

    What gear are you running? Too low of a rear gear could get it hot. Would not be a big deal crusin around, but once it gets to highway speed?? Just a thought.
     
  8. solid
    Joined: May 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,459

    solid
    Member

    Sorry, did not read the whole thread. The cars been done a while.
     
  9. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 22,598

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I think I skimmed this over pretty good and didn't see if anyone suggested checking the gauge? that's what I'd do first.
     
  10. Yeah it was mentioned
     
  11. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

    I could be wrong, but it looks like your fan is set up for pulling air not pushing...

    Just reversing the polarity of this type of fan is not enough to turn it into a pusher.
    You have to flip the fan blade as well to make it most efficient.


    I never used a fan like this, but your photos show the fan blades going in the wrong direction.
    If the polarity is also set to go with that same direction, as the dust indicates in your photo, you would pull air out of the engine and against the airflow when driving.
     
  12. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,815

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    That may be, I dont think so, but I will double check it.
     
  13. studebaker46
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 726

    studebaker46
    Member

    if it runs hot at idle then it is an airflow problem,but if it runs hot at cruise speeds and higher it is water circulation problem. this is what iwas taught 40+ years ago good luck my .o2 worth tom
     
  14. attastude
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 235

    attastude
    Member

    if you don't have a ground strap to the engine block and also to the frame, the engine block is turned into a battery and will eat away at other metals like your water pump impeller and your engine freeze plugs. if the water pump is bypassing coolant, it will flow too quickly through the radiator and not dissipate the heat quickly.
     
  15. My '77 Vette L-82 was doing the same thing. It has a 3.70 rear end and cranks about 3600 at about 60 mph. It had the front air dam missing when I got it. Put the front air dam with the air duct to the radiator and it runs much much cooler at highway speeds. It seems the temp would start going up at about 3000 rpm. Maybe just a small would help direct the air to the radiator.
     
  16. auto shop
    Joined: Aug 20, 2005
    Posts: 284

    auto shop
    Member
    from kentucky

    I had a car that the radiator cap was bad and it would only over heat at high speeds. The vent in the cap was stuck. Replaced the cap and fixed the problem.
     
  17. sun down
    Joined: Mar 22, 2008
    Posts: 471

    sun down
    Member
    from tx

    is it still running hot?
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.