Running the valves on a small block

Its been a real long time. I have a real clean low mileage little 350 from craigslist in my 64 c10. I have some lifter clatter...actually sounds like only one but i thought I the first step was to go ahead and adjust the valves and see if that clears it up.

As I recal...you tighten them unitl the the sound goes away then back it off a half turn. Is that the right way?

Not sure if this is the best action plan...but its what I got. your advice is appreciated.

 

Engine idling and warm, back them off till they rattle, tighten slowly to where the rattle just stops, then go 1/2 or 3/4 turn more.
While you're at it, observe the valve action closely for travel on each valve. The extra clearance could be caused by a lobe going away.

 

Awesome thanks.

 

Yup. I do the 3\4, a 1/4 at a time, let them settle a moment, then another 1/4 and so on.

 

I have a set of cheap **** valve covers with the top cut out of them , just for this purpose

they help keep the oil in the engine ..instead of all down the side and on the exhaust manifolds..
really handy on a new cam or engine run in while adjusting the lash

 

What?? You don't enjoy squinting through oil smoke to get the valves done?

 

I got some ol covers i can cut up. Thanks fer the info...thanks.

 

I don't adjust mine with the engine running, wife doesn't like the mess in the living room.

Tighten 'til no play then 1/4 turn. Look in a Chilton's for the proper adjusting sequence.

 

I have found the easiest method is to back em off until they clatter then tighten them back up until they quit clattering as this would be zero lash. Then shut the engine off and give all of the valves the 3/4 turn preload required. You will find the lifters will bleed down easier with the engine turned off and you don't have to have your head down in that smokey *** mess !!! >>>>.

 

my buddie was adjusting his rockers (no rocker cover with the top cut out) so to save the mess he just laid rags across the headers to the fender all was well till the oil soaked rags went up in flames he **** his pants through the rags over his shoulder on to his brothers head, that was over 10 years ago and i'm still laughing

 

And when adjusting the valves of an older engine, sometimes the rocker nuts loose there "set" as they are a locking nut and for what ever reason, often, they will not hold and new ones must be used, but they are cheap.

 

OMG- do it the easy way. Use the EO-IC method. Much more accurate & doesn't make a mess.


Here's a step by step. Works on hydraulic or solid, stock to exotic race stuff.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0303_setting_valves_info/index.html

 

haahaa it was fun ony a few times..the mess, the possiblity of a fire, and that burnt oil look on freshly painted headers, just ****ed *** too much for me...besides these cheap *** cal custom valve covers were never going on anything I would drive

 

I use old the valve covers with the top cut-out too, as well as rocker-arm stoppers. They are little clips with plastic plugs on the that go over your rocker arms and block off the oil hole. Using both of these items, there is very little mess.

 

i have a set of those plugs too..dam things always get lost and cant find em when it comes time..
only thing i hate about them is sometimes they get knocked off or pop off and could try to make it thru a oil drain back hole, or maybe thats just my luck

 

Before you touch the valve covers check the fuel pump with a stethescope(sp) or a piece of hose...long screwdriver...whatever.
You might have a pump going south and the clicking sounds a lot like a valve lifter!

 

When my headers get loose it sounds just like a valve tap.

 

You guys need to read Steves32 post above. This IS the best way to adjust valve lash. There's no mess. You won't feel rushed and can work at a more leisurely pace. Also, it really is the most accurate way of doing it.

 

I must agree..EO-IC method is the only way I adjust valves. Most accurate..clean and no rush.
Take a look at the link Steve32 posted..

 

I went ahead and found the noisy one with a cut our valve cover. Tightened and took care of the issue. No mess no fuss. I have done the other way before as well. takes more time in my mind. Thanks for all the info and posts.

 

If the noise returns and the adjusting nut is sufficiently tight not to back off set the idle down to barely running and observe the valve action, especially adjacent rockers. If the range of motion on the noisy one is obviously less you have a cam lobe going away. Time to replace the cam.

Frank

 

I vote for 1/2 turn. Some of the newer...read that poorer quality lifters won't take 3/4 turn.

 

For the most part there is some good advice here......and some not so much. I always use the Exhaust Opening/Intake Closing method for solid lifters and solid rollers. But with a hydraulic lifter camshaft, those lifters have to be pumped up with oil from the oil pump......hence the engine needs to be running. Like the smarter people here said, back off 'til you hear the clatter, tighten to a quiet 'zero' lash, and then tighten a 1/4 turn further. Sure it can be messy without a valve cover cut-out or rocker arm oil deflectors, but it's a one time deal and they tend to stay in adjustment for a very long time.