Technical Runtz Failure Again - Any Ideas??

My rebuilt SW fuel gauge works great but for some reason I keep blowing Runtz voltage reducers and loose power to the gauge. I've gone thru 3 of them this summer/fall. Put a new one in, lasts about 4 weeks and goes bad, repeat.

I'm running a delco-remy generator with a 55 chevy regulator and I've got 14.3 volts at the battery when it charges. Engine is grounded to the frame and frame to body grounds all check out.

I install them per the instructions and I'm not popping any fuses.

Any ideas?

 

I switched to these after having a couple Runtz go bad, no problems since...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dash-Gauge-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bf123974&vxp=mtr

 

Make everything 12 volts

 

Go to Napa an order an IR-1 voltage resistor. Ford used them for their instrument panels, and they work very well. Cost is about $40, but they work and you can get them anywhere.

Chris

 

We use the IR-1 as Barsteel posted and haven't had any problems.

 

Thanks guys and good to know I'm not the only one having these go bad.

 

I'm a fan of true CVRs for gauges. L7806 are good for a gauge and cost less than $0.15 each...simple.

 

I read this post and started to go away then re read it. You say rebuilt gauge. Nothing about a sender. Then I got to wondering. Was your gauge 6-v to start with and did the rebuilder leave it 6-v? If so, why? Is your sender the correct mate to the gauge? In my 51 Ford and my 53 F-100 I've been running Runtz in them with no issues for years. Maybe I'm just lucky. Sounds like you have everything correct so short lived Runtz don't add up.
The Wizzard

 

Good points and yeah when the gauge was rebuilt it included a new sender matched to the gauge by the rebuilder.

When the gauge has power thru a reducer it works great I just can't believe I've got thru 3. I got the first 2 from the gauge builder (his version) and went with one from Speedway on the third one thinking maybe he just had a bad batch.

We didn't convert it to 12V because it was additional cost and he recommended just to run a voltage reducer on it....okay simple enough.

When I talked to the rebuilder after the first 2 failures he was at a loss and we were thinking it was overcharging but it's right around 14.3 volts so he's not sure why either.

 

I see that's an IC with 3 leads so how's it wired?

1 lead - 12 Volt Supply (inlet)
1 Lead - 6 volt out to gauge
1 Lead - ???

Then I assume it needs to be grounded like the Runtz version?

 

The middle leg gets grounded. I used to use a 5V unit that was good for 2A. Powered the 6V gauges just fine.

Mart.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=448038