Hey gang, I spent a good chunk of the morning looking through paint threads of the last couple of years, and haven't found what I need. I have shot lots of Rust-o-leum's Appliance Epoxy Enamel out of spray cans over the last decade as a mostly an indestructible ch***is paint. I currently have a quart of their white Appliance Epoxy that I would like to use on an engine compartment, but one problem.... This stuff takes forever to dry! I see lots of threads on shooting Rust-o-leum's regular enamel with hardeners, but not sure if anybody has come up with anything for the Appliance Epoxy. Anybody have a pet brand hardener and thinning component they have used with this? And ya, I know this isn't the "right" way to do this, so I'm not asking about other brands to do this with. This is sort of an experiment for my own purposes.... THANKS!
7 parts rustoleum from the quart or gallon can, 2 parts acetone, 1/2 part valspar enamel hardener. I actually like valspar tractor enamel paint better, but it's about the same. Not sure if this is compatible with appliance epoxy, don't know how the enamel hardener will play along, haven't seen appliance epoxy in anything but rattle can, I guess you could drain the cans. I haven't tried it but have read about using generic enamel reducer from auto paint with rustoleum with good results. I may give it a try instead of acetone, Ill be shooting some on equipment in the next month or so. That would give some level of heat range / cure control. Appliance epoxy, may be worth buying some activator/catalyst for generic epoxy primer from one of the bottom cost brands and trying a spray out. Takes the budget price out of it though.
Cool, thank you! They sell it in quarts at Home depot around here in both black and white. Like I said, I have spray a ton of this out of cans over the years, including things like white on mini bike engine sheet metal and the grill shell insert in my "T". 15,000 miles on the 'Bucket in the last year and that insert doesn't have one nick or chip! I'd like to try it on some suspension stuff.
Can you get a semi flat black in the tractor paint? That'd be good to shoot my ch***is if I ever get it done.
I've used Rust-O-Leum for base coating sign boards and have experienced the prolonged dry time.An old sign painter told me the cure for it and it works very well(on sign boards anyway). The reason for the extended dry time is that the solvents that escape into the atmosphere to facilitate the drying will fall back onto the surface(if the board is laying flat).He recommended using a regular oscillating fan set to blow the air across the surface to disperse the solvents. Works like magic! As for a catalyzing agent;I would try the generic low priced catalyst using the proportions listed on the container. If you have someone who has a shop you might be able to wheedle a small amount for test purposes;thereby saving purchasing something that may not work. I used to spray a lot of motorcycle parts in the 70's and to top coat them with clear over gold leaf or 1-Shot I would use Acme Cata-Cryl with their catalyst. I have also mixed various brands of catalysts with 1-Shot if the job was to be cleared with very good results.
Out of curiosity, how is this exactly an epoxy if it's a 1 component paint system out of the can. Not meant to be a smart *** comment, just curious.
Not taken as a smart ***ed comment at all, as I have thought the same thing! To my knowledge, epoxies are a two part system by design, so I'm, not sure what's up with this. I do know that when you spray it out of a can, it lays out like gl***, and after a prolonged drying time it is hard as nails. like. seriously, hit it with a hammer tough. If I can dry it quicker, I can see a few different uses for it.
If you put a catalyst in it , that may impede the "lays like gl*** "part is it possible the slow kick is what allows it to flow out?
That's interesting about laying flat and circulating with a fan. I have used this product mostly hung from a wire, so I don't know if the solvent "drop" would be a thing or not. What's funny, with the epoxy product, even in Phoenix's ridiculously hot summers, it still drys slow. Having shot "real" paint before, I would think that the heat would dry stuff quicker... Not this stuff though.
If you can find it Krylon also makes an appliance "epoxy", it seriously dries in like 15 min with similar results to Rustoleum. I know AZ Parts master carries it in phx but not sure who else. Sent from my SM-G900V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ppg mh101 I use it in anything and everything oil based. A capful per quart and it "cures" rather than "dries". Able to be clear coated with automotive urethane as well without cracking. Will give it a day or 2 before clearing. If clearing over oil based enamels ( same as the appliance epoxy) first coat should be misted on. Let set 15 mins. Then proceed as normal. But most of the time the enamels lay down real nice. Good luck
One part epoxy paint is generally either moisture cure or UV cure, I would think an added catalyst will not help. If it is moisture you need to do it on a humid day and UV put it out in the sun to speed up drying. In AZ you have no shortage of UV but not so much humidity, and I would thus have to guess that the rustoleum is moisture cure and that is the problem.
That would make sense. The guy at my paint store said something about that, but I had never heard of such. Makes sense too, cause damn that stuff drys slow.
Set up a small humidifier in the shop/spray area. Bring the humidity up and have at 'er! You'll have your answer without having to add catalyst to the paint. ( which I don't think will help in this case. )
There is a product that is called Japan Drier and will accelerate the drying time of alkyd based paints dramatically. Most stores that sell house paint carry it. HRP
Makes sense for it to be moisture cured. Here in humid southeast Texas the appliance epoxy dries real nice overnight and is full hard in a couple of days.
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