Some wands have nothing but a hole for a nozzle and I'm wondering if this is a properly designed nozzle to give 360 and 180 degree coverage? Even the "360" and "180" are not defined. Is the 360 a spray in a plane perpendicular to the wand tube? - in other words if I pull it through a rocker or frame will it completely coat the inside? Another Brand X the "RA1/T" looks like a decent gun with adjustable nozzle and optional wands that have holes around the circumference of a brass end fitting for 360 coverage. Frankly, holes I can make myself in all kinds of clever wands and probes. But is the 3M worth getting? Also thinking about a Schutz gun too. The Astro Pneumatics looks like a decent one and the "Low Cost" one sold everywhere is tempting. But the $48 RA1/T catches my eye with its adjustable nozzle. I already build a sprying system using my own drilled hole tips and a home made pressure feed tank. I actually used pipe plugs for spring nozzles. I'd cut a sharp V-notch across the pipe plug and then drill an orifice hole through it. That got me a bit of a fan spray. But I haven't worked out a 360 nozzle for dragging through cavities. Frankly, I've relied on pump sprayers shooting linseed oil or spray cans of LPS-3 or the like using the "red tube" through the drain/weep holes. Oh, and I've just ordered my Michigan Petroleum Technologies Rust Proof Compound L formerly from Chevron Marine, formerly for Texaco. People who have used this stuff revere it and it seems to have survived many company buy-outs. I originally used a Kendal amber rust proofing in 1974 (Kendal Coat???) on a Factory Package 1963 R2 Super Lark and to this day, the rust proofing is still like grease. Thanks in advance, Tom
The rust fighter I wand works in conjunction with the 3M Shultz gun. It sprays a 360 or 180 patten depending on how you have the head set. Typical applications for that set up are inner rails.
I know what they claim for the 3M, the question is how well does it work? One wand (might be Eastwood) claims a 90 deg nozzle which is simply a small ho0le drilled on the side of the "nozzle." A hole is not a nozzle in my book. And again, terminology is lacking. 90 deg implies perpendicular to the wand axis, but there is no mention of the fan angle. Again the 3M is 180 and 360 and I'm assuming they are fan angles. They do not mention if they are in a perpendicular plane. Some nozzles have a hemispherical pattern that will spray the "end" of a rocker - not just the sides. Tried to find any info on youtube.... did not.
An actual circle sounds good. How do they do it? What does the nozzle configuration look like? How do you change to 180 deg? You'd think 3M would have lots of info on their extremely expensive stuff (!) Another outfit had a "360" that had 3-holes at 120 deg apart. It was NOT a circle but 3-misty streams. Sure it would probably get everything in a cavity but the coat would not be even. Amazon shows people buying the 3M with the Astro Pneumatic gun which looks worth the extra $$$ ($30ish) over the generic $16 schutz gun. But I'm still temped with the CemiCar RA1/T with its adjustable nozzle for $48. It has wands too. One with a simple end hole to get at places the gun won't maneuver into and the other is a 360 and it looks like it has 5 or 6 holes in a circle which should be better than that 3-hole I saw a youtube of.
there is a picture of the nozzle i made for my shoots gun, sprays 360 when the paint is mixed right. i used a piece of pipe to check the pattern. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...the-men-that-louver-them.750934/#post-8336209
Great home made nozzle! Using the hex coupling was a great idea. What is nice about DIY is that you can make a rigid tube wand to do doors AND you can make whatever pattern you want AND if you want to change orifice sizes, its Easy and Cheap. Might be interesting to see what a circumferential V notch would do - it gives the pattern a fan shape. Just for conversation, another kind of fan nozzle is a "deflector style." For instance if you have a nozzle at the end of a tube, you mount a flat surface at an angle. The stream hits the surface, spreads out, and "ricochets" at the angle. A 90 deg fan is easy to get. You can even get a 360 if the surface is perpendicular - the stream splates onto it and if there is the right combination of orifice size, pressure, and viscosity, you get the 360 deg fan. I already have a pressure feed rig I made. Obviously the low cost approach is to make a 6-hole just like you did and get the job done. Oh and louvers.... I had to put stripes on a louvered hood. Of course the strip edges went right down the center of the louvers. Nothing like masking louvers for stripes(!) Oh, how I hate louvers!
The SEM Rust Preventer system is pretty cool. Can use spray cans with an optional 360 deg wand that is a virtually perfect spray fan. Then you use a spray can of cleaner to clean the wand (!) The spray is something like $17-ish, the wand $4, and the cleaner $7. Amazing. Actually cheaper than 3M. Here is a youtube of it in action:
Just bot the SEM wand since it was under $4 locally. Interesting nozzle: It is a small plastic cylinder with a hole bored into it There are 4 "nozzles" located at 90 deg intervals Nozzle is a thin slot cut 1/2 through the cylinder. My guess is that a thin fluid will produce nearly a 180 fan from a nozzle while thicker fluids will have reduced fan spread. With 4 nozzles, there can be overlap which is OK and if there is not, 4 nozzles still do a pretty good distribution job. It also looks like the can spray cap that is included with the nozzle will fit 3M Rust Fighter I spray cans. I suspect this nozzle will work good with my "linseed oil pump spray can" setup too. Looks like its a great value - not like the 3M wand that is almost 10X the cost (!)
Here is a pic of the $4 SEM wand. You can see 3 of the 4 slot style nozzles. Very basic. Slot cut to center of the tube. 4 slots at 90 deg angles. Will report how good it works.
I've been looking at pressure washer and industrial spray nozzles for the same isea. A lot of industrial sprayers are 360 cone shape patterns for cleaning operations. My thought was to use a section of brake line or similar rigid or flex, build it 1/2 the length of the rocker and shoot thinned por15. From both ends. Haven't gotten as far as building anything yet. Keep this thread going I'm interested in what you come up with.
Under no circumstances would I consider shooting POR15 inside a door. I have a friend who stripped a frame to bare metal and prepped it with German precision and it still peeled off where there was no rust. POR15 is hyper sensitive to surface contamination. If there is the smallest trace of oil, it will not stick where other paints will. Now Eastwood makes a multi layered encapsulation process intended for the inside of frames. I would consider this over POR15. They also make a Rust Encapsulator product that my same friend used and when he had some parts cleaned (either tanked or blasted) that had this product, the shop asked him what he had painted them with because they had a terrible time getting it off. I've read similar accounts on the web. This is the only encapsulator I would consider. HOWEVER, while it might be a good product, I would not subscribe to ANY encapsulation strategy since filiform/peeling is inevitable. It may take 5 to 50 years depending on the environment, but when it occurs, you are in a world of hurt for a remedy. Remember Ziebart used that strategy with their black undercoating and when it started peeling, the rust out was much worse than if not undercoated. And there was little you could do about it too. My conclusion is that the only "everlasting" protection is from renewable coatings like oil, linseed oil, cavity wax, or amber self-healing wool oil/lanolin coatings. I believe the very best is also the most hassle: soaking everything down with oil once a year AND making sure all the drain/weep holes are clear. Regarding weep holes/slots: Even properly applied cavity wax could clog these up. My thinking on them is to shoot oil, linseed oil, LPS3, chain lube, Fluid Film spray (its thin too) - something that drips out after you apply it. Otherwise you risk clogging them with coating. NOTE: Fluid Film Spray: I had a piece of bare metal I had sprayed a path on and then laid it on another metal surface at an angle so rain would not pool on it. The creeping/wicking was INSANE. Not only did the FFS spread over the test piece (about 5"x8"), it spread onto the back of the test piece and onto the surface it was contacting. I've never seen anything do that. In fact, it spread to the point where it seemed to be evenly distributed and you couldn't see where I put the "puddle." Now I've seen youtube on a gallon of FF and looks like thick amber rust proofing. The spray is not like that (it is possible that I did not spray enough to get to the "thick stuff" since I only used the first few seconds of spray on a new can for the test splotch. But the can did not feel like there was anything thick in there when I shook it.