Hot Rods Rust removal and prevention

It seems to me powder coating is not the answer to prevent rust, Example new trailer hitch powder coated and rusting just like cheap enamel paint.


Ago

 

This is the kind of things I have been hearing and I personally will never use a POR type product on a vehicle. But I thought the Encapsulator, from Eastwood, was totally different. I will do more research before I paint the frame. ( after I sandblast it! ) Thanks for the reply. Very good info.

 

I'm using VHT chassis and rollbar satin black on my suspension and frame. I'm really not going to have it out in bad weather and my garage is high and dry. So far everything I've painted has been squeaky clean so i don't see an issue with it ever.

 

It has been my experience that any POR 15 product will not adhere to new bare metal that has not been etched. The stuff will peel off in sheets, however if it is applied to old metal that has a slight amount of tooth or a thin rust layer, it will have to be ground off the remove it. What is the problem with Ospho? I have used it many times and have never had a problem under epoxy primer or regular high build primer. If you kill the acid after applying it, there is nothing left but iron phosphate and that will not re-rust as long as it is kept fairly dry.

 

.....and these 20 different brands are made in the same factory, same formula, that leave with different labels. So that Rust Encapsulator or POR15 or Rust Bullet or KBS or whatever, is much more alike than each company would have you believe..

I'd like to clarify one thing above, "Instead of having a catalyst...." leads one to believe this is a single stage paint without the hazards of isocyanates. Actually these products DO have an isocyanate based catalyst, but it is mixed in with the paint, and as stated above, moisture in the air is what activates the catalyst. Even though it is difficult to navigate around their website to get a definitive answer on hazards or find an MSDS, look at item 8 in this link. Organic respirator needed when BRUSHING and air supplied hood when spraying...

http://qr.absolutecoatings.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR-NoReadDirections.pdf

To help illustrate that this is nothing to take lightly....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=166722

Know what you're using, take necessary precautions (respirators), live another day.

 

MP&C - Thanks for links

 

Don't like going ontop of it ,,,,

Hell it will spit that shit off like you spit watermelon seeds. But usually after its finished painted. The good thing is you can get all of it off with a blow gun, right back to where you started.

 

I just found an old tread by gdub titled " Phospheric Acid / prep for primer " March 2012
Thought someone might be interested.

 

Thanks a million Metlmunchr!

Without you guys I'd be doing everything over three times instead of just twice.

 

I really hope this tread has helped you and others. Myself, I've been there but after a 20 year absence from this type work I need to be updated and I appreciate everyone that has responded. BUT: I know there is still more knowledge out the that hasn't been shared.

Thanks everyone, Jim

P. S. Don't be bashful ask or tell us something. Nobody knows everything! And there is no stupid question! And anyone that makes fun of your question is the stupid one.

 

Same here. I'm rusty as it gets. I painted a few custom bikes & cars in the 70's with nitrocellulose lacquer or acrylic enamels, but that's ancient history. It's been 25 years since I got out of the old car hobby.

It's been 34 years since I worked in a real shop (though I have supervised a couple shops over the years.) The last real paint job I did was my little boat back in 2008, and I shot it in StarThane catalyzed urethane under a big plastic tent in my driveway. That was the only time I'd painted something big in urethane & I struggled a bit. It wanted to run way too easily, and it set up fast so I rushed to shoot it & wash the gun out.

Coverage was phenomenal though, and 6 years later it looks fine.

 

My tentative plan was to send my frame to a local guy that does sand blasting & powder coating. I'm fairly familiar with powder coating as at Vendo we* did all the machines. It worked well on clean metal.

But it's only polyester, which is cheaper stuff & not nearly as durable and impervious as epoxy or urethane.

Now the HAMBers have me convinced to shoot epoxy primer on everything. I sure don't want to epoxy my lungs though. A pressurized respirator is in my future.


EDIT...(*I didn't personally shoot the paint. I programmed the CNCs & did sheet metal pattern development.)

 

Oven cleaners, Caustic Soda, Lye, Sodium Hydroxide, and NaOH are all names for the same thing, but various oven cleaners have listed them differently. This is the active ingredient that eats the grease off & you can just buy it dry and mix it.

Sodium Carbonate (washing soda or Na2CO3) does this too, but not as viciously as lye. In my current rust removal experiments, I'm soaking rusty steel in a strong solution of this overnight, then rinse before going into the de-rusting tank (which is a very weak solution of the same.) But some baked grease is too tough for this so lye works better & some thick stuff simply must be scraped.

Any grease just insulates the steel and the process stops.