Rust removal.......the miracle of molasses!

Have you read ALL of this thread?
Best I remember, when it started way back, they were using feed store Molasses, the kind used for "sweetening swill", and I believe it showed the ratio for the dry weight.

 

hey chuck, i read it all, maybe i missed something.
Thanks, ill look again.

 

I could be mistaken, Brother, but I thought I remembered it being there.

 

Google-ness shows several articles on the subject.
http://blog.1aauto.com/2011/02/21/did-you-know-that-molasses-is-a-rust-remover/

http://www.worldradiomagazine.com/old_wro/articles/columns/wp0906/wp0906.html

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/223017.html?1310536193

All kinds of ratios tried, but most folks using liquid molasses.........Should not make a difference though.

I do read that keeping it warm is the key, to help it work better, with most recommending the 80-100 degree range, and some folks "recommending", using water that's not chlorinated.

 

Hey Chuck, I re-read the thread, glad I did, people are saying its hard on cast iron, and I had planed on putting a block in it.
Ive got a old cracked block, think Ill test on it,
I did read, someone, I think it was 1 cup of dry, to a gallon .....

 

It's really no worse on cast iron than other types of acid, just don't leave it in for a few months!
Other threads I've read , but not on the H A M B, and as stated above,some have kept the temp up on the solution, by using a "stock tank heater", ( Tractor Supply carries them), and used an el cheapo, Harbor Freight submersible fountain pump, to keep it all circulating.
The stuff will kill aluminum quite well though, like cam bearings left in a block, etc........

 

Hey, Mark.........Have you checked out "Reformation Brewing", in Dallas , Ga.?
Upstart brewery, on of the principles fly's for Delta, and word is they are partial to German and Belgian brews..........2 of my favorites!

 

My brother in law found some Morris truck guards under the deck of his house....here it is before the Molasses bath..... and again in couple of weeks of bathing.


Today I pulled the parts out and water blasted the molasses goo off the parts. The black patch on the guard is where it was sitting on the bottom of the tank which inhibited activity and has stayed rusty.


The dark oval mark on the guard is the contact patch where the panel was sitting on the bottom of the tank, reducing the opportunity for circulation of the molasses mix.

Blasted, dipped into a solution of baking soda and water, then drying in the sun. Minimal flash-rusting.

I made up a solution of baking soda and water in a drum, 7kgs of cleaning grade soda from Bin Inn, to 150ltr of water, to dip the parts in and neutralize. The baking soda and water makes carbonic acid (I think!) I dipped the parts or sprayed the bigger bits for about 20 mins.

I used an air gun to blow the majority of the water off the parts then set them onto a sheet of galvy to cook in the sun for a while.


I was amazed at how much paint actually came off with the blaster and molasses, The under seal on the back of the headlight bowl didn't budge, but a lot of other paint did come off. Even bolts etc that were still on the parts and rusted together are spotless and will come undone easily now. This was really just a trial with parts that I will not be using, but now I am happy to continue with the right bits for the car.

 

bump

 

Hey Stealthcruiser, Im in Dallas Texas, is there a Reformation Brewing here ?
I looked and cant find a address...

 

Not to my knowledge, Model A Mark..........Dallas, Georgia is the one I know of.

In Dallas Texas, check out Community Brewing, (good stuff!), and Deep Ellum Brewing.

 

Last time I went to Deep Ellum Brewing I got a buzz just testing all the different brews, lol ...

 

What if you added a bubbler to keep it agitated a bit? Just a thought.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app