Technical Rust repair reality check please.

I agree with everyone, If you enjoy this type of work it can be very Satisfying . Don't get in a hurry and don't be afraid to cut out what you just did and start over. I find it helps me to hang the mistakes on the wall as reminders.
Plenty of stuff on you-tube, I don't know how I made it thru all those old cars without it.
Best of luck.

 

More good comments. Thank you. Yes, the experienced guys showing off their work make it look easy and perhaps the reason I pose the "Will I get over my head?" question. I definitely have determination and patience and willingness to make mistakes and learn from them. I don't get caught up in all the latest techo gadgets and find myself not wanting to know what's next but this internet thing, with forums like this one... I can't live without. I believe my expectation is realistic. I never wanted a show truck. It will be a driver, a shop truck. It's box will be used. Keep it coming. Thanks.

 

Here's the truck as of July 2015. A field find that I've had since 2002. Was parked beside a barn rather than in it. Still had the key in the ignition like they parked it and walked away. It's only missing about 5 minor parts and the box and tail gate look really straight. I think they used it like a car.
I've also got a 37 Ford p/u. I love that one year grill. It's fairly complete, cab just as rusty. it's box is really beat. So I've flipped back and forth, a dozen times, which one to do. Nobody can answer that question for me- it's personal (or complicated). lol.

I retire in 10 or 12 years. I want it as my retirement gift/goal/bucket list thing to use one of these trucks as my daily driver.

 

Now I suddenly can't load pictures. Not sure why. I'll go search.

 

Usually because the are too large.

 

The only other thing to keep a project like this realistic is the timeline. If you're like a lot of us that try to fit in working on our cars around our jobs and families, plan on it taking years and not months. That way if you finish early, it's a bonus!

 

I'll look at resizing. These are big pictures. I closed out of the forum and now can post again.
I just wanted to show off the box side. Surprising straight for a farm truck. I do see mega issues here as well and same with the fenders of this truck. My labor wont stop at a rusty cab. At the pace that I'll go at, I will need 10 years to finish this truck. lol.

 

here's my advice, don't go out and buy every patch panel you find. many people buy patch panels to fix a problem that can be done with flat sheet. I've had people bring a car with patch panels I didn't use, they just wasted their money.

as stated above, use as little of the patch as possible. my friend did a 51 chevy door with a lower door patch, it was like 10" tall when all he needed was 2-3". it is always better to have the weld closer to the edge than 10" up the panel.

an important thing to keep in mind is heat is your enemy. so you have to skip around and let things cool. I figure if you can't touch it with your hand comfortably, it is still too hot to go back and weld. also heat can warp a panel in the grinding stage, I like to grind with the edge of a cut off wheel, and only grind the weld and keep away from the surrounding metal as much as possible.

 

Suggest you start with something less rare and valuable. If you are a normal human being and not a bodywork genius, you will mess up the first 2 or 3 jobs. That is how we learn.

For a vehicle like that it would be better to have it welded by a professional. If you take the cab off the frame, remove doors, seats, floor mats, insulation, etc. and furnish patch panels it should not take more than a few hours welding.

Maybe I am being cautious but would hate to see you mess up something you can't replace .

I also endorse the night cl*** idea. You will do a lot better, if you insist on doing it yourself, with the instructor's guidance.

 

I second that. You might also think about picking up a bead roller and a sheet of steel and try to make as many of your own panels as you can. You will save money and learn how to fabricate panels at the same time. You are going to have to shape the panels you buy anyway, so why not try to make your own.

 

It looks like a solid start to a cool project. Are both bed sides that straight? That's a gift if they are! Cab looks good except for a couple of manageable dents. From what I can see the rear fender looks pretty good too. I may be wrong , and I often am but I think this is a good start for you. Take it apart and bag and tag any and all pieces. Take lots of pics so you have something to go back to when you can't remember where the funny shouldered bolts go. Get the big stuff blasted to find out where ALL the cancer is. ( caution, not all media blasters are old car friendly. Some only work on big equipment and can ruin sheet metal by being too agressive) I'm a bit jealous! I was looking for a 40 pickup when I bought my 41 fire truck.
It's like the old joke....." how do you eat an elephant"?........"one bite at a time" Start small and easy and work up to the harder stuff....You can do it!

 

Fender repair on older Fords is not that difficult. If you've got some one in the area who can give you some beginner's tips, then go for it. You'll need 3-4 body hammers, some dollies, and a small oxy-acet torch w/tips. Good luck, it is a great craft to learn.

 

I am soaking up everything. I don't want to be naive and charge in blind. Project planning and budgeting isnt so easy for this newb. I restored an old motorcycle and was shocked to add up the cost in the end. I see the same happening here if Im not careful. In the end, despite everyone's encouragement, I may not proceed. I'd still be interested in welding courses for the fun and hobby interest.

I hate to take this truck apart just to get the cab to a pro for an estimate, but they won't come to me. This truck is 2 hours one way from the shop i'd trust to do the job.

I've contacted a shop to just get a price range. Without holding the guy to a price, I heard to expect the cab corners and rockers would be approx $6000 if they don't find surprises. And I still have doors to do. That didn't include bodywork. Shop rates up here range $125 an hour on average. This is not a complaint. Just looking at all angle and being realistic about doing this project at all.

Jethro, The other box side is just as straight. The front box panel is a little bowed. The tail gate is pretty decent too.

Tools, panels- All Good considerations. Thanks.

 

That is ridiculous. If I couldn't do both cab corners and rockers in less than a day I wouldn't call myself a bodyman.

Go ahead with the night cl***es if available.

Sheet metal is sheet metal, you don't need some restoration expert. There must be body shops less than 2 hours away with competent help.

 

Phew, thank you for saying that. Still, I can't expect an accurate quote until I sand blast and reveal all the cancer???
To be fair, the number was a range and site unseen. Maybe a high number to cya??

I hate to take this truck apart until I know I am certain I will restore it.

 

Can you strip the body of windows and upholstery? Remove the box and the front clip? Can you tow the ch***is and body to a shop? They will be able to see everything that needs work, before you sandblast. They may prefer you do not sandblast, I know I would.

 

if you take your time and do the work yourself even if it is not a 100 point restoration you will sit in it and smile all the time I would love that truck until the day i die if i had it MAKE IT YOURS! good luck and have fun

 

That doesn't sound so bad. I've access to a trailer. I'd have real numbers that way. It sits on my family farm 2 hours from my house but maybe a more local shop would entertain meeting me at the farm to look it over.

 

There were 33,397 1940 ford 1/2 ton pickups made, so they weren't extremely rare. I have a '41 in a little rougher shape than yours that I picked up last year I have yet to start digging into since I'm renovating my shop at this time. the '40-'41's were considered the best looking Ford pickups ever made and I'd have to agree, of course I'm a little biased. That would be the one I would build first if it were me. The rear fenders are the hardest pieces to find since they are pickup only. It's not a race take your time. Here's mine:

 

Hook up with a local Car group and get to know some local home builders. I can guarantee you you'll find some one with a project close to yours already all apart. There's a grate way to ***ess weather it's something you want to get into or not. Maybe out of them you might turn up a non Pro that supports his Car Habbit by doing rust repair at home. You could end up being His helper on your project and learn as you go and build a good new relationship while your at it. Now that would be a double Win deal. I'm living proof that this kind of thing happens a lot.
The Wizzard

 

Depending on how much metal work the truck requires, 50 hours may be a fairly low estimate. I did the metal work on a 56 F 100 and it was significantly higher than that in hours. I put new floor, new firewall, new cab corners inner and outer, new rocker panels, new dog legs inner and outer, filled in the gas filler neck hole, filled in the original cab vent on the cowl side on the p***enger side, filled in all of the holes in the hood for the emblems on the sides and front, did some slight rust repair to the front corners of the hood, shaved the door handles and the door lock, filled in all of the excess holes in the dash including some that were put in it at some point in its life for an after market stereo, and bumped out quite a few dents that any old pickup truck will gather over its lifetime of work. All told, there was a little more than a hundred eighty hours of metalwork in the truck. this also included bracing the cab 17 different ways so that nothing could shift or move on me after I started cutting panels out of it.

And, as some others have said take lots of pictures as you take it apart, label everything,and don't be afraid to cut into it and get welding. Its only metal if you screwed up you can cut it out and weld it again.

One other thing that I didn't see anyone mention it is when you start doing the patch panels only cut out one at a time. That makes sure you have a reference on the other side of the truck for how it should look when it is together. and when you go to do the rocker panels brace the door openings top and bottom so that the openings cannot shift on you. You wouldn't want to have everything welded back together and looking pretty and then discover that the door won't close anymore because the opening is a half an inch shorter than it used to be at the bottom.

And don't be afraid to ask more questions when you get into the actual metal work. Plenty of guys on here will be willing to help you out with the specifics when you get to them. Myself, I have never done any work on a 40 pick up but I am sure there are plenty of guys who have here on the hamb.

 

Buy a good welder with tanks, don't try it with Flux core.

Get a s**** fridge, stove, furnace, whatever, cut it up and weld it back together, you'll learn how to set your panel gaps and how things start moving when you tack it up.

Do your floors first, they're not readily visible. If you completely **** it up, a new patch panel wont break the bank.

You'll get the hang of it, it's just metal, add or remove as necessary.

 

125$ an hour? I'd be standing over em with a bull whip, making em work flat out for that sorta cash.
I know lots of body guys, and they all waste so much time talking to friends and customers, while nothing gets done.
I think you are on the right track to do it yourself. Its not rocket science, practice is the key, as others have said.
I'm an expert here, cause I can't weld for ****, but I can stick two pieces of metal together.
Another thing, is these old Fords are easier to mess with, than say a 60s car. Pull it apart, get to know your truck inside out, and yourll probably wonder why you didn't do it earlier.
And as to adding up the cost, that's not a great idea. I'm in the, don't wanna know camp. This here's my p***ion, and you can't put a price on it.
Good luck, I reckon your on the right track, and ten years is a great amount of time to get it done before you retire.

 

Wow. You say you just want a daily driver and work truck. At the risk of being the odd one out I say again...why don't you just get the truck running and drive it! Learning how to get an older vehicle running and driving well might be time well spent if you really want to have a "daily driver". Dealing with cab corner rust won't teach you anything about maintaining a running vintage vehicle. Maybe you already know how to do all that, but if you don't have you factored in what it will cost to get the truck running after the body work? For me, having a daily driver that drives is more important that a good looking body sitting in my garage. You asked for a reality check...
Cheers, johnny

 

What are you planning to do, drive 2 hours every time you want to work on it? Why can't you put it on a trailer and bring it home?

 

lol. Nope- just stored it on my brother's farm. Free rent but also wife issues- I think you understand. lol. Should I proceed with the build, I plan to strip it there and bring the frame home first. However, I see there's a small body shop about 15 minutes from the farm. I've never heard of the guy but, first chance I get, I'll ask if he come look at it. Sometimes these guys only want collision business but maybe this guy cant specialize like that.

I posted a want ad, asking for instruction in mig welding. I received 3 replies with in 5 hours. The most qualified guy claims he has a B pressure ticket and he's working on a Chevelle. So, like minded at least. I've yet to speak to him and work out details.

 

Thanks for the encouragement. Ya, I want to do this just to prove it to myself. I had a guy discourage me and I just can't give up.
$125 is average. Some might be $110 still. Oil country I guess.
I might have a qualified guy lined up to teach me to weld. I'll take this winter or longer and practice on s**** and basic projects. I Think I should make a welding cart, kind of idea.

 

Thanks to everybody for so many tips, ideas and encouragement. A whack upside the head with a 2x4 is what I expected but lots of logic is what I am hearing.. sorry I can't reply to everybody individually.

I know this is a very specific rod forum. I believe I am building a traditional rod but (correct me) but this truck will look stock except lowered. I will use a dropped solid axle up front and parallel leaf in the rear. I've a 51 Merc flathead to build as well. Not sure I would do a build thread considering how slow my progress would be.

This will not be my last question but until then, I plan to keep reading the forum daily. Cheers.

 

Rust is just the beginning. Hammer and dolly will come very soon both during and after. Some of the above are right, anyone can learn to fuse metal together. To restore the panel (create a surface) that can proudly wear a finish, that's where hours and experience and significant shop rates come into play. Any body shop tech can indeed hang a panel in jack time. You, and frankly most others here, are talking about restoration. Anyone who says there's no difference? I can tell you what the work looks like. I've been at this for over 40yrs. The best advice I can give you is that you have to have a sincere desire to do it right, to do it so that you can say 20yrs later, "I did that..." and it still looks fresh. Not everybody wants that. Some are happy with pop rivets and bondo. After all the sage and sincere advice you've received here, and don't be insulted, the best advice will be given over the top of your bathroom sink. Whatever he says, follow that.

 

Betcha there's a night 'basic welding' course at NAIT. My welder didn't work worth a damn until I took one of these courses some years back. Turns out the machine is just fine...