Technical Rust repair reality check please.

Your plan fits here perfectly, I suggest a build thread, you'll get a more help that way instead of individual threads, it helps people follow along with your multi year build.

I suggest getting the truck running and moving if possible, even if it's just "yard driving" it keeps the motivation up, once they turn into 1000 pieces you wonder WTF your doing this for. If there's just no way to get it running then scratch the idea.

No reason you can't break it into smaller pieces and work at home. Example: get patches fit up and tacked with the fender on the truck, take it home for final welding, grinding, stripping etc. Bring home a door, dis***emble rebuild regualtors, fix any rust, re***emble. Get it.

 

There are night cl***es at Nait. Problem is I work shift work and I could only make it to half of the lessons. I think I found a guy through a kijiji ad I placed. B pressure ticket working on his own hot rod at home. We'll see.

 

Funny you should say. I think hammer and dolly might be a far bigger challenge. I started this thread when looking at the extent of the rust on outer panels and realized the hidden damage, such as inner panels, would be as bad and far worse. My "over my head" concern grew rapidly.
I had looked at a bunch of video's where guys show how to mig weld in patch panels. What I do not see covered, is how to repair the inner panels or inner damage where no patch panels are available-that I can see. Now I have to question my ability to fabricate effectively. More cl*** room time.
I am sure my front outer cowl, inner cowl (toe kick area) and floor board (under the pedals) will all have to be done. That looks like three intersecting panels and at present, I wouldn't know where to begin. At some point, I will specifically research and consult you guys and make a plan from there. Ideally someone who can ***ess the damage in person. Good comment. Thank you.

 

I've seen that done and that makes the most sense. Mocking up ***emblies before the finish and such. My wife complained she didnt want garage space taken up until I start the project. Can't blame her and so far she's pretty supportive... . Except... Right now she thinks this whole project will only take a 10 or 15 thousand. I'm going on the better to ask forgiveness, than permission principle.... wish me luck with that. Haha. Naw, I'm keeping the numbers real. I just haven't figured that out yet.

 

Here are some good threads on 40 Ford projects that you could add to favorites or book mark.Definitely worth the time to read through. It sounds like you have an unmolested truck so you are not picking up after someone else hacking the body & giving up. Mine has the floors hacked out & I have to get it straight & back together. Big thing is if you are doing major surgery is to tack in generous reinforcing to maintain the body shape to allow big pieces to come out and go back without twisting your cab.

These are coupes but the cowl repairs and principles for a 40 PU are similar.
This one has good info on repairs on the inner & outer lower cowl, rockers etc.
http://www.project40.net/
On the HAMB is The 39 Guy thread: Excellent detail all through on body & ch***is.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-40-ford-coupe-for-uncle-mike-build-thread.949053/
Zibo's two threads:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/building-a-low-budget-belly****on-40-ford-coupe.742104/
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...oupe-and-fab-everything-else-possible.335174/
All the best,
Glenn

I would look at the welders body work to see if it is the quality that suits you. I have worked with 100's of welders on piping and boilers through my life and can tell you that there is a very wide skill level difference even though they all p***ed the same ABSA or TSSA weld tests for boiler work. The welders get ***igned by contractors based on their experience with the welders from previous projects. They all can weld pipe but some stand above the others in their natural abilities.

You may set up a working relationship where he shows you the fit he wants for panels & you do the time consuming work of cleaning, cutting, fit up & he welds. I have done that successfully on a couple vehicles. That gives you some satisfaction of doing the lion's share of the work & that keeps the costs under control.

All the best,
Glenn

 

Glenn,
Thanks for the links. Very helpful. To add regarding the experienced welder. He may really know his stuff but can he break it down for the beginner welder and teach. I'll be looking for that as well.

 

It would be good if you can have a welder to work with you & mentor as well.

The nice thing is that a 1940 Ford truck is well supported for body repair panels & parts. Search the HAMB site & the volume of information is impressive. Lots of willingness here to lean in and help one another with their inquiries as well. All the best with your project.

 

The 40 is surely well supported. It's crazy what's available for the coupe now. I just bought a Lincoln Electric 140 mig kit. It was a private sale, new but never used or used very much. The guy demo'd it to show it worked. Still under warranty. I'm looking for gear and gas soon. I'll be practicing a lot from here on. Welding cart maybe.

I again say thanks to everyone who replied, even if I didn't respond to your comment, I soaked everybody's comments in.

 

You can build a 1940 coupe from a catalog. If you are using argon or shielding gas then look at buying the bottle. My welding friend has rented an argon bottle for 10 years. Every time he gets dinged with the annual fee he complains but wont spend the $400 to buy the bottle. It was a month ago Praxair presented him again with their annual charge. Complains about it but won't do anything about it. He could probably could have bought 3 bottles by now & likely will pay the $100 to differ the $400. I don't get the logic.

 

Agree, buy the bottle. I use a 75%/25% mix of Argon- CO2

 

I'm not sure if I should be surprised that nobody brought up 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive or not. It's probably not how it was done back in the day but I've heard it holds on TIGHT.

 

And use .025 wire.

 

What size bottle we talking? I can ***ume it doesn't degrade over time... lol, just keep the valve closed so it don't leak out. lol.

Thanks for the wire size tip oldrelics.

Patmanta- I seen a videos on the 3M adhesive. Old school shutter at the thought I bet. I've many techniques to study up on. The more I learn about complete bodywork from start to finish, the more I feel I can afford to start and finish the truck. The info has been great guys. Appreciated!!!

 

I understAnd your shift work situation but if that ever resolves itself take a course. I took one at BCIT and it was very rewarding. I did a small repair on an OT fender and I wasn't happy. Cut the repair off and paid a pro $300 to do it right. I then decided to take the course on metal shaping and welding. I took th exit off piece that I had saved and with a little persuasion I worked it to a satisfactory shape. I was and still a little disappointed that I can't metal finish as well as a 30 year veteran LOL. But I have to be realistic and be OK with a thin layer of filler (I recommend All Metal or something similar). Get y
Ur patch panels and do not expect a perfect fit. A little tweaking really pissed me of but apparently most patch panels do not fit exactly. By the way, I really like your truck.
(PS. Good luck with the Oilers)

 

Start with the theory I might not be able to make it perfect but I can make it a hell of a lot better!

 

The key thing to do is get ALL the metal as clean as possible, on both sides. This will help you the most.

 

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182565 A ton of Knowledge from this thread!! MP&C!! Robert is a excellent teacher!! Pete

 

Hey man cool project. Do: enjoy every aspect of your build- even when you smash your finger. Do: be a sponge- learn as much as you can from friends, hamb, shops, etc. Do: run gas on your mig- flux core is good for NOTHING. When you are done there is little that compares with the feeling that you get knowing you built that yourself. My 57 was very rusted- everybody said I was crazy-"it's too far gone" they said. If I can do it, so can you. Good luck

 

I use a 122 cubic foot tank, lasts me a year or so.

 

I'd find local guys, to learn from or hobby builder types that can get you going in the right direction. Started out doing that myself years ago, we still ***ist, and learn from one another every day.

 

Is it done yet? Where's the build thread? Why is this taking so long?

Seriously, it is just metal. You CAN do this!

 

Compare the prices, around me a refill on a small tank is close to the same price as a large tank.

The gas supply companies stamp their names into the tank neck, if you buy one be sure the certification is current and get a "blank" tank.

I actually take my argon tank with me when I need a refill in the backseat of a rental car when I travel for work and get it filled away from Chicago much cheaper. Just gotta Web search the area I'm going and get prices before hand.

You're gonna need at least one 4 inch grinder with some cut off wheels and a couple different grinding wheels.

Seriously, get an old free fridge or stove, plenty of sheetmetal to practice cutting up. Hint, Hint they're also great for making small patch panels from.

 

All noted Gentlemen. Thanks again. gimpyshotsrod- lmao!

 

Greetings! If you're still needing patch panels for your pickup, I recommend "Northern Cl***ic Trucks", they sell everything you would need including an entire ***embled floor. Best of luck with your project.

 

junkman. Northern look like they're one stop shopping for sure. Thanks.

 

If you start, and you're still struggling, and you're willing to do a 5 hour drive south to Lethbridge, I can show you how to metal finish your stuff. I started doing the metalwork thing totally as a hobby a little more than 10 years ago, and took a couple cl***es from Wray Schelin and Peter Tomm***ini. I'd recommend that, but you can buy all the panels you need in the aftermarket, so you probably don't need to hand fabricate any patch panels. Like others have said, buy the best quality panels you can get. There isn't a pro metal shaper around that can make you a panel from scratch cheaper than you can buy a stamped item. That was at the top of the list in the stuff I learned from Wray Schelin.

It cost me about 2500 bucks to fly to his place, with motels, meals, and cl*** cost, etc., but it is far cheaper to do that than to pay someone 125 bucks an hour at a body shop that is only going to mig a patch in and bondo over the piece afterward. You can learn to do that yourself.
I have retired from an office job working with *** kissers and back stabbers so I do this metal work now for grocery money. There isn't any rocket science to it, but if you take some time to learn to weld, and pick up a shrinking disc, and some half decent body hammers and dollies, you can do anything.
David Gardiner's dvd is also an excellent tool and it was less than a hundred bucks when I bought it a few years back. I built a half decent 30 model a truck with a flathead and saginaw trans, and it only cost me about 6 thousand bucks total. You don't need to spend a fortune if you learn to do the work yourself.
If you sign on to Canadian Rodder website, I have a small ad on there to show you my work and contact info. I don't have anywhere near the talent that the seasoned professionals have, but I can show you how to do this stuff. I charge less than half what you were quoted, and I would have to charge you for my time, cause I don't like to be hungry and I am not wealthy by any means.
So, if you want to make a day trip, or even an overnighter, I can give you a bunch of the essential skills to get you going. I am not trying to do an adverti*****t here, just trying to help you out. I trust you won't be disappointed, as you will learn how to do metal finishing with pretty much zero bondo. I know, I know, the purists will all say everyone still needs a little bondo, and they are right, but you can learn to do it with less than the thickness of the stainless steel ruler that you will use to show you the highs and lows.

 

jvo. You have caught my attention. I am about to make payment to attend two Reynolds Alberta Museum courses on Metal finish repair course and Surface prep, paint and finishes course in Feb 2016. I would consider the drive.

Is "start a conversation", the same as a private message??

 

Yes.

 

I know some people who have done the Reynolds Museum courses and they are quite good, from what I have heard. I'm not sure they are hands on courses, or not, but that is what you would want. Its not the same when you watch someone else do it.

 

I have learned a lot from "skilled" friends and several of them use what I call the tack and let it cool method on patch panels, chops, etc. Space the tacks and walk away til they cool completely, then repeat til solidly welded. Do the metal finishers agree on this technique?