rust treatment

Im building a truck thats going to be driven and driving often.I like to know which is the better rust treatment for my under carriage and floorboards. por15 , rhino lining or the undercoating stuff autobody shops use.I just dont want my. truck to rust away on me because I plan on enjoying this truck for years.

 

Clean metal, good primer and paint.

 

Im on a nason budget I cant afford ppg

 

Remember, POR-15 is for PAINTING OVER RUST, not clean metal. Put it on smooth clean metal, it will peel off. Even on blasted surfaces, I have seen it peel right off.

Save up, do it right. If you are going to drive this daily, real bedliner, on the whole, properly prepped, primered, painted and seam sealed underbody is the way to go. Otherwise, pro-grade undercoating, over all that.

 

I used brush on Tremclad (Rustoleum)....been on there 15+ years...no problem

 

International HS670
its the best over some rust scale
and its not expensive at all

 

Here in NJ we get a decent amount of snow, and the state SALTS the roads, plus mud and gunk, rust stuff out pretty good (not like the Midwest, but close). On my cars I like to get it clean, sandblasted, wire-wheeled, whatever, then POR-15 it, 2 coats. When the second coat is still tacky, I use bedliner, the catalyzed kind, NOT out of the can, like Duplicolor. If on a budget, rubberized undercoat. Worked well for me for the last 35 years!

 

wire wheel on a grinder and rustoleum.

 

Take a look at this website : http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/

 

i like the intro better than the rr one.

 

If it's painted, clean and in good condition just steam clean it and spray the lot with old engine oil. Repeat every year. Okay not too pretty and a messy job but been doing that for years here and definatly helps hold back the rust and damp getting in every little nook and cranny. Free aswell

Just make sure you let your ride sit somewhere to drip away where its not a concern about dumping oil everywhere. I normally use a tarp and let it sit over night.

 

Here is what im dealing with.tomorrow im going to use a shop vac to get all the crap out of the cab corners

 

I have heard a lot of really good things about "evaporust". It's a liquid that neutralizes and removes rust by circulating it over it with a pump. It is what they are using to bring back that Belvedere that was buried 50 years ago in a time capsule and filled with water. Might be worth a look, as its pretty inexpensive.

 

Boeshield T-9
but read this.... http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html

 

I love this stuff. (don't confuse it with other hammer paint though)
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...Hammerite+Rust+Cap+Paint+Hammered+Finish+Cans

 

I found the read very informative. Thanks for the link.

Ed

 

i use master series coatings the silver one then before it drys roll a bedliner type product.i think i used gator gard. 7 yrs still looks good still havent put carpet in yet.

 

Back when I was a little kid, my grandfather would spray used engine oil all over the undercarriage of his cars. It wasn't attractive, but it did work.

With my projects, I get them clean and use plain old black rustoleum. I've never had it fail.

 

Good article, but he is inaccurate in his description of POR-15 (and Master Series Coatings...same chemistry).
POR-15 might contain a rust converting chemical, but the thing that keeps rest from coming back, is the mix of aliphatic urethane resins, and the silver flakes in it.
From my readings of both POR and MSC websites, the moisture cured urethane resins cure and get stronger with exposure to moisture...though be carefull when applying them...they do NOT like damp materials or very humid days, though the humidity will cure them faster. The only time I had any failure of either, is when the metal was much cooler than the air or very damp out.
The silver flakes settle down during cure time, and help create an oxygen proof barrier, so the base steel cannot rust at all (if clean bare steel) or rust further if it is already rusty.
Aliphatic urethane is VERY tough stuff, as I'm sure you know, if you've used POR or MSC and got it on your skin, clothes, or other things you didn't want it on!
In fact, the Sherwin Williams Industrial floor coating I used to paint my shop floor with, is Aliphatic urethane. while hot torch droppings and paint remover has lifted some of it up it's help up nicely in the 15 years it's been there.

 

I really wouldn't recommend this. People used to do that here too. Oil really doesn't protect the metal much, but to make matters worse, USED oil has acid in it that can actually cause corrosion.

 

I have used this paint product on wire-brushed rusty metals, and it works great.
It's made for boat trailers,and I've used it on springs,axles,& trailer suspension in salt water and it gives great protection.

You can paint over it once it dries......it may be the same as what other paint has been listed,as I haven't checked the ingredients.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/product.asp?id=96

 

Here is another:

http://www.pettitpaint.com/product.asp?id=245