hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and have some questions. Was wondering if they could be answered here. I am using rustoleum pro protective enamel oil based white gloss paint I sprayed some of my parts yesterday and the final coats were heavy and wet and looked glossy from the gloss white. I left the parts outside in the cold and this morning it seems as if the clear has faded off from condensation on the parts. Is this possible? Also. Since the paint is oil based, I found an oil based clear at Home Depot and am planning on using that. Has anyone ever used oil base clear on the oil based rustoleum paint? Or should I cut and polish the gloss base coat for a shiny finish and forget the clear? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you.
Welcome to the HAMB. Intros go HERE: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/new-to-the-h-a-m-b-introduce-yourself-here.18/ There are a TON of Rustoleum threads on here. The best way to sort them is to use the search function and its optional Google results tab. That said, temperature variation and moisture are the enemy of any paint in my experience. Painting outdoors or in an uncontrolled environment in the Fall is very difficult to pull off. Generally, cold makes paint cure slower, heat makes it cure faster, and moisture just screws it all up, in a nutshell. If you put your enamel on THICK and left it in the cold, it's not going to look like it did when you left it, no. It might not even be fully cured yet, just hard on the surface.
Thanks. I just went over there and introduced myself. Okay so the paint doesn't look the same because the moisture right. Will the paint have any issues down the road because of this? I able to touch the parts but as you said, they might not be dried fully throughout the coats. I just found some hardener for oil based paints. Wish I had found it about it sooner to see if it worked. I am gonna test out some rustoleum paint with the hardener today and spray it on with clear and hardener as well. Hopefully it works out. If it does work, I will post the supplies and types of clear/hardener I used to help anyone out that is using rustoleum also. I'm also gonna use that search bar to see if I find anything on hardener with rustoleum. Thank you for the reply and the welcome. I'll also post some pictures of the before(yesterday) and afer(today).
I dunno but if you're going to go to the trouble and expense to buy hardner, paint and clear, why not just go with a quality automotive paint? Same amount of work for a less durable product, IMHO. Spend a little more $$$ up front for a better, longer lasting paint job. Personally, if I was gonna use rustoleum for my finish coat,[and I may] I'd just single-stage it and be done. I mean, that's the advantage to using cheap paint, right?
Park it somewhere dry, preferably indoors, and let it sit until next spring. Then rub it out. If you are lucky, it will polish up and look just fine. Skip the clear.
Rustoleum does not have premium grade pigments so even if you were to wet sand and buff, the coating starts to break down in less than 6 months if out in the sun. Also regardless of any coating if it's not cured, or freshly painted (less than 4 hours), a heavy dew will pull the gloss away, now if it doesn't have a hardener the heat from the sun can bring some of the gloss back later in the day. Like a lot of people have said, it's not much more expensive to use TRUE automotive / fleet products that will last a long time.
Joe and Rocky. Once I finish this. I am going to use automotive paint. I've spent just about 150$ in quarts on paint, reducers, and other stuff just for the paint. I feel I can get some good auto paint for that. This inexpensive paint job turned out to cost more than I thought it would. A******, haha, sorry had to. I thought about doing that but the paint in just a day is so dry. You would think it was sprayed with flat paint. I might try to polish it out though. I am not sure Paint Guru, you are right. I am going to follow your guys advice and get true auto paint. The time put into the car for it to look like this and the cost rounding up to auto paint just annoys me. Do you guys have any good sites you use for in expensive auto paint? I'm not looking for show room quality not rustoleum quality. Something around $150/gallon maybe? Here are some pictures of what I have. First picture is last night. Was so happy with the way it was looking. Second picture is of now. Such a disappointment. I think it may be the weather also. A few years ago I used the same paint and never had this issue.
Well I sell/manufacture automotive paint, so I am not going to be able to offer you any other good website other than my own lol. Just let me know what you are looking for, how thick you want it, what you are use to spraying, how well you want it to cover, oem code and all that cool groovy stuff and I will custom build you something.
Live and learn. The paint on my car is Centari Enamel and was $100 gal. With hardner and reducer you are in the range of what you spent on the Rustoleum. I'm sure Paint Guru will get you set up.
Yes I have learned my lesson here. Wow $100/gallon. Doing It right with hardener and reducer. I shouldn't go over my budget. I am talking to paint guru also. Thanks. I just mixed some clear with hardener and have the hood 2 light coats. I'm not sure if it's yellowed or not. Too dark! It does have a nice shine to it and looks well. But even with hardener it's still wet after 2 hours. Any tips on how to heat up paint at home? It 61 degrees out. If the hood doesn't look like it got peed on tomorrow and still looks white. I may just shoot the whole car with this clear and call this car done and get some auto paint for the next one. I did wet sand the gloss paint with 600 grit today. Is there anyway I can get a good shine out of that with polisher? Sorry for the long rant and questions. All info/help is appreciated. Thanks guys!
learning proper paint process crosses over from old to new. but, remember that this site is about traditional rides - keep focused on that.
That is the truth of the matter. I've been documenting what a RATTLE CAN LACQUER PAINT JOB entails over HERE. $5/can sure seems cheap until you see how many you need, even if you don't screw something up or get screwed by the weather. I'm not so sure how 'automotive paint' is going to sit over top of Rustoleum enamel. If you've got a PM conversation with @Paint Guru going, I'm sure he's got you filled in on what's gotta happen next and what you can use. That's the strangest Model A I've ever seen
Okay Paint Guru, I won't mess with the paint temperature in anyway then. Jalopy Joker, I know. I'm trying to keep it paint related not bringing anything into the forum not wanted here Patamanta, I am not spraying over this rustoleum car anymore with auto paint. Auto paint will be next though for that classic camaro I'm painting soon. And yea a lot of in expensive stuff adds up! One of the reasons I've never tried to rattle can a car. I would need about 20 of them and the extra work needed with rattle cans and cost is not worth it. Thanks for all the info again guys. Much appreciated!
A guy down the street had a bel air shell a few years ago for $300. Wish I would've bought it in time. OT= German cars?
OT means OFF TOPIC cars. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/guidelines-the-traditional-hot-rod-forum.828348/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/guidelines-the-traditional-custom-forum.828351/ The HAMB is pre-65 (64 and earlier) Hot Rods and Customs. If you've got a more modern German car, or something that doesn't fit in, check out the DOGFIGHT forums: http://www.dogfightmag.com/forum/
I will do that above patmanta, when you refer to getting a pre 65 car. I've always wanted a project I could just work on and not have a deadline to finish it. One last question. Would you guys know why rustoleum has high gloss and smooth finishes in some areas of the car and some spots have little gloss or are dry? Could I just sand it all with 1k or 2k grit and polish it up with no clear? Or will the polish look dry and gloss in some areas like the paint? I sprayed the entire car.
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