I did this to a fiberglass table I have on my deck. I rolled on a bunch of coats of an almond gloss and wetsanded then buffed it out and followed it up with a good coat of wax. Its been on the deck year round for probably 4 5 years now and its still in great shape. I bet if I washed and waxed it, it would look almost as good as the day I did it. The top surface hasn't lifted, peeled, or cracked. I'm in Northwest Indiana so in any given year it has seen 12" of snow in the winter and 100* heat in the summer.
When you look at what it costs to buy any of the name brand two-stage paints, you've done well with your approach. I bought couple gallons of high-end two-stage Dupont primers - with the hardeners, thinners, etc -- have almost $500 in it. It is insane what paint costs these days . . . which is one reason the Pros can easily charge over $10K for a basic 'simple' job -- without bodywork!
This is an inspirational thread. I love it! We paid $3K+ on a flat black paint job on a Polaris RZR-S for SEMA last year. I could have painted it myself and got a HUGE bonus!
While in the Air Force one of my buddies had a '64 Malibu SS that he wanted to be white. He was more concerned with the way it ran than it being a show car. One week he took leave and brought the car to my house, in the trunk were 3 cases; one of primer, one of Bright White and one of MGD (sorry not PBR). He decided that even though it was going to be a cheapie, he was still going to do the best he could. Anyhow he laid down a coat of primer, then decided to sand it. Then another ... he put down 6 coats of hand sanded primer, another 6 coats of hand sanded White (had to buy a second case ... and maybe a little more ?), then 4 coats of hand sanded clear. After alot of work hand sanding each coat it turned out phenomenal !!! Oh and the beer, would you believe there were 21 bottles left at the end of the week !!!
That is the only reason it turned out nice Back in the day, my buddies and I would have gone back for a couple more cases of beer . . . and the paint job might have "suffered" due to it!
The price of car paint is NUTZ right now , I like what ya did, was it sprayed , did ya thin it and you said something about hardner cars is killer
Looks great, ya gotta love Rustoleum, did my 32' Coupe with 8 spray cans of flat black and 2 cans of gloss white.
I'll throw in my two cents here... I did the roller job on my Chev last year. I don't think I'd do it again. it was a ton of work (many many coats), and I must have mixed it wrong or not cleaned it well enough between coats because its now started to flake off in places. I just wanted something that would be one color while I do the body work. Anyway, I guess I'd suggest spraying and not rolling..at least from my experience.
Yeah, and they plain look good! Not a ton of flash, more like what the original paint would have looked like. Good thread. Now we need a "whats better, Rustoleum or Ace" thread.
Heres mine sprayed in Ace brand satin black. The doors are lettered in Ace brands red and white. The black fades in about a year and flakes just like anything else that doesnt get prepped good, the red and white were brushed on and still look as good as the day it was layed on. The wheels however are sprayed in Dupont Imron, its a '46 International color.
I vote for the Ace stuff! I don't think it is oil based and the counter girl at the local Ace store is a Hottie! LOL
I think it looks pretty darn good. I have been known to use the rusto myself. I use a little one shot hardener, Japan drier and depending what the weather is like is whatever thinner I use. With the rain in the great north west, the japan drier works real good on the rainy humid days.
no, shot it right from a cheap ass spray gun. Like i said 2 parts gloss harbor blue, 1 part aluminum(semi gloss ide say) and about 1 part laquer thinner. In person it looks like a color GM used in the late '70s, my father had a '77 chevy 1/2ton this color.
My store is full of hotties too, they really know how to hire em! The Ace stuff IS oil based by the way.
I just spent about $400 doing a base clear on a hood with me doing the prep and my buddy spraying it for nothing. I think next time I will follow what I have read in this thread since these paint jobs look great. A few people have told me that tractor paint is good to use as it is pretty scratch-resistant.
really cool...like the color also. I painted my sons engine bay in satin black rustoleum over a year ago and its holding up real good, as a matter of fact, he said he has dropped wrenches and what not and didnt seem to hurt paint a bit. needless to say...im sold on Rustoleum.
You could have got a gallon of single stage and not had to mess with it again for 20 years.. That brand of paint fill fade quick in the sun so keep it in the garage if possible. Single stage. $75 http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rsp1304.aspx
If some of you are thinking about the rust-o-leum, here is an option. These range in price from $ 75-95 a gallon of color / reducer everything you need. Here are all the colors.. http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspcolors.aspx Comes with ... <TABLE width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD>• KIT: 1 Gal. ACRYLIC ENAMEL COLOR, 1 Qt. Med. REDUCER, 1 Pt. Wet Look HARDENER, 5 Sticks & Strainers</TD></TR><TR><TD>• Complete Ready-To-Spray Kit. It's twice as much as $35 but should last many many times longer. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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