NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!!! I've done several Rustoleum paint jobs on some ot vehicles and love it. However the biggest problem is exactly what you've asked. Rustoleum is oil based and can not be painted over. It must be completely stripped to paint with conventional paints. Sent via Western Union Express
once rusto, or any synthetic enamel is fully cured, have shot acrylic enamel over it no issues whatsoever. The "real Paint job" should be stripped to bare metal as so many have said, but I have found this not always to be true. If you have a Rusto enamel type paint job, then are going for the high end paint, would'nt you stip the vehicle to bare metal and start fresh anyways. I have also discovered the rusto type paint and primer if fully cured is easy to sand off, if it is not, it can be a bear. The rusty metal primer I have used a number of times, on different projects, have sprayed epoxy primer, urethane primers, and topcoats over this, with not issues whatsoever. So does it have to stripped to be covered over in say a urethane primer/sealer, not always the case, if the paint is 100% cured
I do not doubt your experience, but have you ever shot a sealer and another paint system over fully cured rusto paint or primer(much the same as old OEM plain enamel). If so, what was your results? I get the feeling you have tried this, but had disastrous results...
Stripping old rustoleum is as easy as eating pie. Apply chemical paint stripper, watch it bubble up, s****/peel it off. Done.
yup that'll do it alright, and really those who venture to the "real Paint job", most likely should strip to bare substrate and work from there. If a project is nice and straight panel wise, and for a myriad of reasons, one choose to go Rusto paint job, all the easier for the next go round, once panel is stripped, shoot on epoxy, etching primer and go from there. In my case, was m not dealing with a lot of rust, but an old truck that was used as a farm and logging truck, so character imperfections. The roof had a huge crunch in like a tree fell on it and sat for years. I worked that panel a lot, but it still needs a lot, should have been cut off and another welded on, I had a roof, and dummy me sold the cab. Did not have back fenders, so got a set of beat up rusted ****ers, and a whole lot of welding has been done on them, hope to find better ones in future or buy fibregl*** repops. So for now, rather than sitting in primer for 5-10 years, and I do drive this truck and haul stuff once in a while. I have decided to shoot on a paint job with minimal panel levelling using a rusto type industrial enamel with hardener. At some point will pull this truck apart, and do the real mccoy, but cannot afford the time and money for a while. She may look like a 20 footer, but so what 1 color, protecting the tin, and continue to have fun drivin the truck and fixing all mechanical items as needed
Another interesting thing. Today am prepping this 55 Dodge truck for paint, found some Marson Glayze putty I had, so I fifure some pits and scratches, why not. I filled pitting and scratches on 1 day cured rusto grey type metal primer. The lacquer based 1 k glaze did not phase the primer at all, and I heaped it on in 1 spot to se how it would react. Having said this, this tube was full, but a few years old, I use 2 k polyester glaze now, so that is why I still have a full tube of the 1k lacquer stuff. In the past I have sprayed a lot of lacquer primer surfacer cut with lacquer thinner over fully cured rusto primer, never had an issue. I also tried to scratch some of the rusto primer off my truck, in spots that I shot on last winter, cannot dig my nails into it at all ....hey hey for the Monkees
I have luckily only on a small part and it was unintentionally. The simple reason that it will not work is Rustoleum is oil based. They will not mix. No sealer is going to bond or seal over oil. Sent via Western Union Express
Are you serious, I have used the primer, and shot 2 k urethane primer, lacquer primers, epoxy primers, then topcoats, with never an issue. The alkyd primer is oil based too. I have primered painted over old OEM finishes that were synthetic enamel, nothing different than rustoleum enamel except maybe the solvent carriers. Once the coating is cured, and the resin is cured, why couldn't it be topcoated? I don't think that is the best practice, but it can be done, without catastrophic results, at least in my case on a few occasions. Today was using lacquer based spot putty over 1 day cured alkyd base metal primer, no reaction or issue whatsoever, and have done this type of thing many,many times in the past....
Not trying to hijack, just a quick question for "Pilot31" : What size & 'mods' to that "Y-Block Lincoln" in your PU?(I love those motors!) A HUGE "THANK-YOU" to all of you on this paint thread: Like most of the rest of you, I dreaded having to paint my project but wanted something besides primer & don't want to have to sell my next project to pay for the paint for this one, & now I see how to do an at least 'p***able' & affordable paint job myself at a VERY reasonable cost!! Thanks Again!!!
Well this motor is in my F-8; it's original to this vehicle. My F-1 will have a flathead reinstalledhaven't done any real major mods to the motor. The only thing I've done is put in a late model distributor, a modern "ethanol able" carb, rams horn exhaust manifoldsIt's a low mileage Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sorry hit "sent" by accident. This motor is actually in my Ford F-8. It's original to this truck. My F-1 will have the flathead reinstalled. This is a 317 ci motor. First year for overhead valves in a Ford. However it is actually a lincoln motor. The only mods to the motor are a modern distributor, "ethanol able" carb, electric fuel pump, and rams horn exhaust manifolds. It will get a 12 volt alternator. This is a low mileage motor (22,000 miles). It runs strong and will be for the most part original. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks pilot31; I saw the "Y-Block Lincoln/Commercial" motor & couldn't resist asking about it. To the rest of the thread: mea culpa, now, Please, resume the paint discussion; this is important for those of us that would like to move on from the basic color of 'primer'!
Did this old thread die out? Here is some of my work in summit racing single stage Urethane. A fairly inexpensive alternative too rustoleum.... Went from this, To this, Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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