Have Flathead motor backed up by a WC , S-10, 5 speed trans. While driving the trans shifts fine but once it warms up it's very difficult to put into gear. I have to shut the motor so as I can get it into a gear. I thought the fluid may be bad, so I drained it and filled it with DEX III. Any idea what I'M dealing with
What did it have for transmission oil in it before? ATF or Gear oil If it had gear oil you may be in for a transmisson rebuild or worse. Do the gears grind or just not move after it warms up?
How long has the problem been there, has the gearbox swap just been done and just started, or slowly getting worse over time? Is it hydraulic, cable or linkage release? I know all of these suggestions are'nt relevent to your problem, but here's a few suggestions. Others will probably chime in as well with more. Worn, damaged, bent, cracked linkage? Is the spigot bush/bearing binding up, not allowing the input shaft to freewheel with clutch in, at operating temp.. (lack of clearance/lubrication). G/box input shaft bottoming out, against the spigot bush/ bearing when hot, or inside rear of crankshaft. Dry clutch plate/input shaft splines.
Does it have a slave cylinder or Hydraulic throwout bearing. Or cable ? If hydraulic Heat sinking ? Do you know how to shift up or down with out the clutch while driving wants hot , if you do that will more likely Tell you if internal problem with transmission Or clutch releasing issue Throw out bearing ,slave cylinder, cable
Is a clutch related problem, probably just warn out or linkage problem. Also, if it's a hydraulic set up and the flywheel has been surface, it needs a shim between the flywheel and crank. Being its behind a flat head and there is some adapting going on, there is a good chance the clutch is not disengageing all the way. But it is in the clutch
try matching engine speed and road speed and see if the gears will engage easily that way....if it does, it would point to the clutch not fully disengaging spigot=pilot
If its hard to shift with engine on, usually that's a clutch clearance issue. Clutch not fully releasing keeps pressure on the sync/blocker keeping them locked together. Verify clutch clearance when cold and then again when hot. Worn shift pads will have you punching the dash or elbowing the back seat. Unless the shift forks are bent, worn pads usually just increase shifter throw and sloppiness. If it really is a WC the Dex II/ATF is correct for fluid. But if it was rebuilt with br*** synchronizers gear oil is what will be needed. Fiber use Dexron.