I have a pair of vintage, unpolished Cragar 5-spokes that I want to mount on my Econoline. They're the right bolt pattern (not unilug), but the mounting face is much thicker than the stock steelie, so I guess I need longer studs. I also noticed that the bolt holes are SLIGHTLY bigger on the Cragars. A 7/16 socket just fits through the holes, but won't make it through the stock wheel holes. The stock wheels are chamfered and the socket is held up at the chamfering. Maybe 1-2mm difference So... what do I do? Is it ok to run as is, or do I need special bolts, or really, really thin spacers? I just bought a nice set of bullet lugs, so I hope I can use them
You will prolly have to put longer studs in or You may have to run long lug nuts with washers. I had the same problme running fenton gyros on my tt so I had to buy the correct lug nuts. A local tire shop will help ya out.
You likely need the long lug nuts that have a graduated appearance to them, or the end that goes on the stud is smaller in diameter that the part that meets the flat surface of the wheel. I hope you can visualize what I mean, but it is unlikely that your bullet lugs will work. Hopes this helps, if not I'll take a picture of the lug nut and send it to you, or ask a local tire shop, they'll have them.
Uh...don't Cragars take shanked nuts with thick washers? See here about 1/2 way down page... http://wheelcomponents.com/lugnuts.html
It sound like your Cragar's are designed to use a shouldered lug nut with a washer. The shoulder and washer will mate to the wheel outside face while the stepped in diameter will go into the large diameter lug hole and reach the wheel stud. You won't be able to use the bullet lugs, save them for the next project. Good Luck!
Finkstr got it right, the shouldered lug nuts are designed to fit into the oppening in the wheel. They use a thick washer. You can get the nuts and washers Available from jegs: click the link http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_753955_-1_11611
That makes sense... of course... Lots to choose from. How do I tell which one I need? I know the studs took 1/2" nuts. Do I need longer studs with these shouldered nuts, or keep the stock length studs?
Stock length studs...the nut will 'reach' down to the stud... Measure the thickness of the wheel and get the nuts that are a tad shorter....taking into account the washer thickness. The 2 PC. STD MAG may be the one...but measure first.
I always neversieze my stud threads, but definitely recommend little dab of neversieze around the shank where is meets the wheel and under the washer. And now is the time to clean up the stud threads, as the new mount won't be like an acorn where you can coat it with pb blaster if it seizes up after an east-coast winter sitting!
Well, I'm replacing all the studs. They're kinda crusty and after my wife broke 5 of 10 wheel studs on her 51 I'm not taking any chances! especially in an Econoline!!! Sinister, you want the shanks that a tad shorter than the wheel thickness... so with the washer they will be even further from the drum face? I guess that makes sense, but I'm just checking. Too long would obviously be bad.
You also don't want too long of studs, otherwise they would bottom out inside the nut, unless you used the open ended nuts..... If the nut shank is the same length as the wheel thickness, you'll be OK I think with your wheels, due to the washer thickness, but this doesn't work with some wheels (Weld's, Cragar Superlites), as they have a 'floating' inner ring and the outer surfaces 'crush' it.....
those wheels take mag shank lugs, with special washers. longer wheels studs are not needed, just get the right lugs. 1/2mag will work great
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