Granted, I could've picked a better adjective to describe them, but this one seemed the most apt. Ever notice that, for example, a '48 - '50 F1 (or any other postwar truck frame) is not very strong, way flexible, and the brakes aren't really all that spectacular? Granted, manufacturers were more concerned about (to quote an earlier thread) how these things rolled over a cornfield than driving/stopping on a highway, and they were more of a farm implement than transportation. But is there anything much that can be done to these frames to beef 'em up for daily use on the highway (short of a frame swap)? The brakes are easy enough to convert to a disc, but the frames aren't that thick, and seem... "bendy". Or are they not ****ty at all and just my misconception? Should the flexibility even be taken out of these frames, or would it be detrimental? Here's a pic:
I've seen a zillion of these truck running around the highways for decades, so I'm guessing that they're fine. Vanessa has one sitting in our garage right now (51 F1). I think they're probably sturdy enough, but if you're concerned about yours, maybe an X member would do the trick. A lot of hot rod companies sell universal X members that you can cut to your application and weld in or you could fabricate one without too much trouble. That would take the flex out of it for sure.
The frame flex actually worked with the original solid axle suspension. If the frame did not flex it would be an even harsher ride. The C channel frame though is plenty strong for its intended purpose of the day. For modern upgrades such as IFS and more power you can box the stock frame which is what I did on my truck. The boxing required for the IFS kits I have seen is only in a localized area of the crossmember but you can't hurt things in my view by boxing it all. Just keep in mind you will need access to certain mounting points inside the frame.
I find nothing really wrong with the stock frames on a lot of postwar trucks. Hell most of them seem better than a lot of the newer stuff I see.
Not here to show any thing but the structural aspect. Providing your frame is good and not rotted I would think it fine and up to the task. Boxing and a center section will stiffen it up.
I know exactly what you mean. I am in the process of "Z"-ing my frame right now, and i am really surprised at how flimsy the frame horns are. One thing you can do is to "Box" the rails and/or install additional crossmembers. My frame seems to have quite a few of those, though. I think it will be fine.
As much as I'd like to box for strength, I get the feeling it's a bad idea. I'm using the solid front axle and stock front & rear springs. If I box it, it just "feels" like it'll change the flexibility it was designed for and make things more difficult... And yeah, I could probably put a universal X member in there, but if it's SUPPOSED to flex, won't I be jacking up the works? My main emphasis is on maybe towing a 16' car hauler once or twice a year, but will be mostly highway driving and hauling an occasional couch or motor. FYI, one of the main reasons I'm concerned about changing the flexibility and think it may have been designed this way for a reason is that on the 3/4 ton and 1-ton models the crossmembers on the bed are wood, lending to the flexability. I wouldn't mind more strength - especially for towing - but certainly don't want any boxing done to cause cracking, you know? I've seen folks box PART of the frame, like the front or rear, but leaving the center all "bendy" - is this the ticket? ~Jason
The most popular frames for '32 fords, etc use boxed sections and straight axle(s)-- and that's on a lighter vehicle.
Its been fine for the last 50+ years why f with it? Are you adding 600 hp? I probably have 20k miles on mine and have never had a problem. If your going big motor then yes I would beef up the frame if not I would concentate on brakes and steering. F1 steering ****s and from what I've been told it ****ed before 50+ years of abuse.
The flexibility of the pickup frame is engineered into it for the conditions it will encounter in service. The alloy of the steel, the stamping size and contours are all part of the package. Do you actually think it rides poorly on the HIGHWAY? If so, you need to own a car.
A stock 331 Hemi with a 2-bbl is going in it. Nothing too fancy or powerful. just a lot of torque. ~Jason
This came to me as a basket case. I'd love input as to how 3/4 and 1 ton trucks handle on the highway. I've actually heard they're pretty smooth. My main concern is frame strength with regard to 300 ft lbs of torque and towing. I mean, it was fine in the 50s for towing, and I'm a big fan of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"... but do you think the inherent flexibility of the ch***is will prevent tweaking? And granted, I'm getting down to the frame now and as with any car, when you get down to the various components, you see how light they are and start thinking to yourself, "Oh my God... I was driving THAT?" So part of the concern is me. I just need a pat on the back and to be told it'll be fine for my intended use, and maybe be told where, if, and how much to box the frame. Surely if you've ever taken the front end off of a motorcycle, upon reinstallation you've thought, "Wow... this is held on by like one bolt at 30 ft lbs. Holy cow!" ~Jason
Box it. I remember an interview with Carol Shelby once that he said on the first AC Cobras they didn't do anything but swap in the hot rod drivetrain, stiffen up the shocks a little and put on the fattest tires they could get. He said that the AC ch***is was real flexable and if you could get a fat enough tire on it would stick like glue. I guess he was right.
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