COE Salvaging a 1938 Ford COE

the remains of a 1938 Ford Coe, an old Bell Company pole truck.



The donor vehicle just for the ch***is.


And a 1987 R20 donor ch***is.



Modified R20 ch***is to work with COE cab.



Cab mounted to ch***is.





Front crossmember for core support and front cab mounts.





The new mid cab mounts.





Steering column mounted.



Reusing the stock G20 van steering linkage. Almost there.

 

Wow, I didn't realize there was that much difference in the cabs.

 

3/4 ton for sure. You can't go wrong with heavier brakes, frame, rear end, and steering.

 

What steering box are u gonna use? Will the chevy van box work for ya? Im in the same boat as u and stll trying to figure it out.

 

Nice project!! I'll be watching this one! Here's mine on a '41 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=607966

 

Very cool. The work on the steering box mount looks great.

 

I am concernered that you may have some steering issues later...

By rotating the one end of the center link, the steering box is no longer moving in the same plane as the idler arm, this places the idler arm in stress with each turn of the steering wheel. (instead of just rotating, it is also twisting) this will wear out the idler arm quicker than normal.

Also, you may create a bump steer issue, since the inner tie rod locations will move up and down relative to the suspension when the steering box is turned.

Both of these are due to the fact that the center link is not sliding side-to-side in a level movement, but is moving up and down as a result of the pitman arm swing.

Just be aware of this. Otherwise, keep up the good work.

 

Agreed, your steering design is a "mild design" compared to some others. You are also correct that any noticable bump steer would be at the extreems in turning, so you be careful on the road course (grin).

 

You would never get that cut and shut Drag Link through engineering here in Australia, Steering components like that Drag Link are not allowed to be welded at all !!!
Just my 2 cents worth

Bill

 

Why ! Welded steering components here are considered unsafe. What would happen if the weld broke ?

 

Welded steering parts here all go in the too hard basket. All the fuss you have to prove to show it is welded correctly is simply red tape. Easier to fit something that is NOT welded.

 

Completed column, column mount, and linkage.

 

Nicely done set up for the steering.

 

Out with the 3.73 geared 14-bolt and broke down the spring packs.



New 4.10 geared 1-ton rear is 4" narrower and the springs are inward 2 1/2" more.



Cut off the spring pockets and moved them in 1 1/4" each side and pull 3 leaves from each spring pack.



And the final results, a 1-ton rear on a 3/4-ton frame with 1/2-ton springs.




And as narrow as possible as a dually can be.




Next I need to make a vintage style seat so I can get a feel for pedal location.

 

Building the seat riser and seat frame to get a feel for pedal location. Waiting on the seat foam.




Mocking up the floor and toe board in hopes of a floor mounted brake pedal. Yes the engine will be in stock location for a true cabover.

 

Looking REALLY sweet! BTW: Northern now produces the inner fenders.

 

Donor vehicle for drivetrain.

1973 Ford Econoline 300


The low mileage 302/C4 drivetrain



Only 49523 miles on this motor home.



I still may swp out the C4 trans for a Ford AOD trans. Also, not sure if the oilpan setup will work on the Chevy ch***is. I may need to swap the oil pan and pickup tube for a rear sump pan setup?

 

Hi.Are you going to run a bumper?? Im wondering how your gping to tackle your frame brackets...because I need to fab mine..looking for Ideas.

 

I'm not going with a front bumper on this truck. Keeping it smooth and simple. But, it would be very easy to form up some brackets and just bolt up to the frame rails like original.

 

Donor motor out and ready for transplant.



Mid surgery picture...
The cab was unbolted and move out of the way. Here you can see the custom front crossmember with the front cab mounts. I just copied the design from the original 1938 COE frame.



Careful motor placement is crucial. I want to use the stock dog house.

 

Motor mounts finished.



Cab remounted.



A true COE, a path rarely taken by other builders.

 

Hey Tony,
That looks great, there seem to be a little room left? IJust picked up my other gearbox this morning. my turn next!!!

 

It looks good in there.

 

Al, I'm not sure it will fit under the stock doghouse. It is the smallest modern Ford V8 that I know of. It is also the lightest V8 engine at only 420lbs. The 3/4-ton springs up front are much too strong.

 

Al, it looks like I have the same amount of floor space as it originally had, maybe even more since I only have two pedals. Stock doghouse may even work?

 

Slow down Tony,
I want to try and keep up with you, Lol

 

Minor setback, I need to lower the motor about 5/8 to 3/4". The AOD trans has a beefier housing and it needs to be lower than the C4 trans. To keep the engine at the correct pitch, it needs to come down in the front to level out the carb pad and trans oil pan.

 

Salvaged a driveshaft from a 1994 Ford F-150. Cut it down to 36 1/2" and a hybrid ujoint to mate it to the GMC rear end.





Drivetrain complete.

 

Building the floor. Making my own braces since I started with a bare shell of a cab.

Mocking up with 1/2" plywood. Finish floor will be 5/8" DryPly plywood.





And the finished driveshaft

 

I see ur going with a underfloor mounter MC are u still using a booster?
I want to get rid of my booster.
I dont know how good or bad it will be.
I still have a strong leg thank goodness