COE Salvaging a 1938 Ford COE

Hey, that dash looks familiar!
So how did you weld up your bed sides without warping them? They look good.

 

First thing I did was pre form the 3/16 x 3/4 side bars on a jig, then plug welded them to the 12ga side panels. No damage at all doing this. On the right bed side I started to tack weld the 5/16 x 3 bar on thinking that I could just force it around the curve as I tacked it on. Wasn't working out so I got out the rosebud and started to heat the bar to help form it around the curve. Well, I got the bar on, but as it cooled I had some heat damage to the 12ga. Not the end of the world, but I have 4 tucks yo iron out.

On the left bed side I pre formed the top bar in a jig then welded it on. Zero damage this time. Live and learn from your mistakes.

I still thinking about the dash. I will need to move the gauge cluster over 4" to the left. And then remove another 3" on the right side of the cluster to shorten the dash a total of 7". I really like your dash Scott, so I will give mine a try with your blessing.

 

Still toying with the idea of a dash change after seeing Scott's. The stock '49 Ford dash is about 7 1/2" too wide to fit the '38 coe. The cluster is way too far to the right of the column. I'm starting with centering the cluster with the column.


Here I cut 3 3/4" out of the left side of the column, now cluster centered.



I lost the stock wiper switch and the headlamp switch by doing this. I did manage to keep the starter ****on hole which I will use for the headlamp switch.



Now, I need to remove 3 3/4" from the right side somewhere to recenter the radio in the dash and get it narrowed enough to fit. Do I remove it out of the ash tray area or out of the glove box area? Oh the decisions I have to make.

 

It'll never fit. Send it to me.

 

You're closer to me, send it my way! Sorry, daddio. LOL
I would take your section out of the ashtray, but I don't smoke.

 

Tony,
Don't listen to those two, Send it to me over here, I'll pay the postage.
As Steve has said, , before you post it can you fill in the ash try as I also don't smoke.


MERRY CHRISTMAS

 

It doesn't look like the radio will clear the engines doghouse. I might as well cut it from that area. Never liked the speaker grill anyways.

 

Time to get working on the doghouse. Need it in before I can finalize the '49 Ford dash. I'm fabricating the doghouse front panel and tweaking the side panel to clear the 302 motor and without being too intrusive.



I have 5/8" clearance between the motor and doghouse. I can give it more clearance at the cost of right foot clearance. I feel 5/8" is enough.

 

It looks good so far. Are you going to run A/C? If you are, make sure make sure the compressor has room. Also fit in your alternator.

After my road trip across Missouri, I noticed that you cannot put your foot on the inner fender because of the slope. I have a lot of room in my cab, but with the engine up front, It might be worth adding a place on that sloped surface as a place to rest your foot.

 

I'm thinking about cutting that slope on the inner fender well straight down like the later Ford Coe's have. Like you say, I need a place to rest my left foot and be comfortable.

This truck will have no heater, no AC, and I guess no radio. The only upgrades from original will be the P/S, P/B, and auto.

 

"without being too intrusive"

Hahahahahahahahahahaha !!

 

Bouncing around on this build. Working on the rear bed panel.



Frenching 1938-1939 Ford taillights.

 

If you don't have the tailights yet, buy the LED type. The stock 39 with a single bulb are really hard to see in the daylight.

 

Looks real impressive . Working on mine as we chat . LED way to go for safety reasons .

 

Tweaking the doghouse some more. After a few minutes in the English wheel I was able to iron out all of the dings and dents, plus reshape it enough to get a full 1" clearance between the Ford V8.



The doghouse center has a large hole toward the rear for some reason and two small holes from the choke and throttle cables. I will use the large hole as a cup holder and the two small holes for LED cup holder lights.

Now I have to see if the shopdog will sell me the right side cover...

 

Very Kool!

 

Righteous!

 

Small progress on the Holmes wrecker bed.

 

And three pieces of tube for the start of making this truck tow.

 

The small strip of barstock along the bottom back edge really sets that area off and makes if look very professional.

 

I have enough of the doghouse installed to try and fit the 1949 Ford dash. I got it narrowed enough now to fit the width of the COE. Then I started to fill in the speaker grill. I shaped a piece of 19ga in the Ewheel and trimmed it to fit for **** welding. I just don't like overlapped seams. Just makes it hard to hammer and dolly later.




Then start to locate it in the cab.





Still need to make and shape some filler pieces to mate the dash to the cab.







The dash will be a complete bolt-in. Not welded in like the original COE dash. Still lots more work to go like the radio area. I want to recenter that area of the dash that dips down and fill the ashtray too. I'm not going to have a radio, just a cubby hole in the dash where the radio would be.

 

Love all the fab on this truck!

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4280161005.html

saw this post on craigslist, I know your past this point in the build but never hurts to share.

 

More filled in on the dash.



And added a cup holder to the big hole in the doghouse. Just a simple bolt-in stainless cup.



I will insulate the backside to help keep engine heat off my cold drink.

 

that will keep your hot chocolate nice and warm...will you have to custom build an air cleaner?

 

I'm getting close enough on this build to start thinking about body work. I have some major rust and dent issues to fix. I have the typical rust issues like cab corner front and rear. I also have some unique rust issues like the roof and back panel because of the add-on crew cab and the boom dripping sediments on it.

I have some minor creases and dents throughout, but a major dent/fold in the back radius in the roof.

Look at this damage.



And after the rear window to crew cab seal and paint removed.



Close up




Now what makes this repair extra hard is that it lands right on the lead seam between the roof and back panel. It is a very strong and thick area to work on. I didn't want to put the torch to it send melt out all the fine lead work. So I used my hammers, dollys, *******, and shrinking disc. Not quite finished yet, but it is starting to return to its original shape.






I needed to fix this issues before I chop and pancake the top.

 

Tony,

Thats coming on a treat.

Your cab rear window is just the same as mine was, with the frame and felt like material under it.

I will post a few pictures next week on the grafting in of the new/old rear window from Barry., it sure makes the cab look different.

 

That was nasty...nice work.

 

Now is the opportunity to install an electric rear window.

 

Fixing the dents/creases and cutting out the bad. The back of the cab rusted through because of the add-on crew cab ****ing up, rubbing together, and trapping moisture between the trucks cab. The gas tank area is completely rotted away.

The cab corners I'll get from northern cl***ics. The rest I will form and fabricate myself.







It would be much easier to start with a better cab, but this project is all about the metal work to salvage this one. This truck will be 100% filler free.